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daniel_g

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Everything posted by daniel_g

  1. When i get a bit of time im gonna cut them off and smooth it over like on a TB i used to have on my old GT. Just looks a bit neater, before it was painted obviously.
  2. Ahh this is because the inlet i have on my 85 is the Gen1 N/a inlet, its the same as a GT/Glanza inlet but there is an extra nipple on the back and none on the front. So you might only have 3 to block. You can see them in your pic in #7. Is all just shite thats attached to your coil / ignitor.
  3. Its really easy man just those two connectors and two block fuses.
  4. Yeah repairing it is a lot easier than swapping the whole loom, especially if its only a MK1 loom you have to hand. You can unplug the two white plugs from the fusebox, along with the large red & black fuses just under them, this splits the ancillary loom away and you can fix it on bench easier or replace this section if its too badly fucked.
  5. After reading that other thread about you its no wonder he doesnt want to sell it to you !! Glws Manny
  6. The clocks unit has different plugs. Also the MK1 fusebox is different. Top MK2/3 bottom is a MK1
  7. Having a look through the sites and seen this, quite cheap aswell, would probably be about 4K all in on the road at a guess. http://www.japancaraccess.com/japanese-used-toyota-starlet-cars_1525310581.html
  8. Take the 3 17mm nuts/bolts off instead ?
  9. Yeah a mate has one, its pretty decent, just shy of 200bhp with bolt ons and hondata. They are fuckin expensive though and importing one dare say youd be 10k for a good one.
  10. http://www.rhdjapan.com/zep-racing-live-sports-eyeline-toyota-starlet-ep82-square-lamps.html Ment for square lamps im sure, but can be modded to fit quads
  11. Thats how ive always done it, works for me
  12. Havent spent a great deal of time on it only a couple of afternoons
  13. Pretty easy buddy, im doing the same with a GT shell atm, put a N/a engine in it and using a EP85 ancillary loom i had, that plugged into the existing GT fusebox. There will be a few ways to do this just like turboing a N/a. The EP91 might be slightly different, i dont know if the ancillary loom disconnects from the fusebox like a EP82 does ? Worst case is fit a EP91 N/a full bay loom in the Glanza, use one from the same year for ease ie 97 loom in a 97 shell. The alternator, starter etc all use the same plugs. You need a N/a MAP sensor and ignition setup, the thermostat housing sensors may
  14. Had one in my old GT, ran it at TD04 @ 1.1 / 1.2 bar. Was fast as fuck till it shat a rod lol.
  15. It will work yeah, aslong as you keep the 85 final drive. Or find one from another C series box which matches the rear diff.
  16. Not worth an awful lot but pretty good seat imo.
  17. Try disconnecting them, run a loop on the thermostat housing and see if the white smoke stops. The turbo could be burning water.
  18. If you supply the parts to them it'll be cheaper. Theres a HG in the forsale section for 30 odd quid, headbolts are pretty cheap and so are timing belts which id replace whilst its off. Possibly a head skim 40 quid. Everything else should be ok. Then garage labour depending on where you go will be between 40 - 80 odd quid an hour at about 4 hours.
  19. Knowing the AA they will probably try and sell you a battery when theyre out. Especially with it being cold now. If you are worried about getting to work in the morning you might be best just replacing it.
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