Fozzie

Just keep sending him boxes of your shit in the mail until he sends the money back

The way my wheel is set up, I used a piece of wire with a fork connector on one end and a spade connector on the other. The fork connector is plugged into the horn plug on the car, then the spade is connected to the horn button on the wheel. This should get your horn button working. As for the indicators, there should be a small black ring behind your boss kit, with 3 (I think) small 'nubs' on it. This is what cancels your indicators, the ring has little cut-outs on the side and as you turn the wheel far enough it makes the stalks flick back to centre. I'm not sure what the back of your boss looks like, but I drilled 3 small indents in the back of my wheel for these nubs to locate into and now my indicators work like normal. You hopefully should be able to do something similar with the steering boss! As for the gap, I'm not 100% but I don't think you can do much about it.

Did you speak to him again about the panhard rods mate? I'm keen to know more ha

This should look mint with some time spent on it, nice colour choice too

Love these older Civics, looking forward to seeing how you get on with it

I think some of the civic radiators have 32mm inlet/outlets on them, while the standard Starlet radiator hose has a 28mm I/D, so they can be very tight to fit on.

You need to undo the four cross-head screws on the console that sits around the handbrake - slide the seats right forward to do the back ones and then right back to do the fronts. Then just give it a tug upwards and it lifts out. There's a couple clips around the base of the centre console (in front of the gear stick) - undo these by pressing in the centre and pulling them out. Then remove the trim around the heater controls and CD player by just giving it a firm pull. I think then the trim around the gearstick should just lift off. Gear knob comes off by just unscrewing, but it might be quite firm. Then remove the plastic trim around it, unclip the old gaiter from underneath, and fit your new one. Reassemble everything in the opposite order! (and breathe)

Same boat for me haha! I'll take a black one please

No worries, no those four screws are easy to get to with the column still in place. You should see them as soon as the wheel comes off, just some small crossheads. You should be able to bridge the airbag plug with the column still on too, everything's quite easy to get to!

I think that the airbag plug has to be removed when fitting an aftermarket wheel? Should be four screws on the plastic bracket it attaches to, remove those and then take the whole piece out. Then bridge the yellow airbag plug behind it, so that your light will go out as normal when the ignition is switched on. Your boss should slip straight on the spindle then.

I assume you mean you want to build a 5efte rather than a 5efe? If so, you won't be able to just use the 5e bottom end because the con rods are wafer thin and will bend unless you keep things very tame. You won't need the 4e crank as the 5e one is strong enough. You also can't swap cranks between the two blocks as the throw is different on each. Your best bet would be to forge the 5e or try and find some 5fhe rods and use them with forged pistons in the 5e block.

GReddy E-Manage Ultimate - piggyback ECU that's real popular on Starlets. Think TD might sell the units & mapping sessions.

Maybe PM Russ78, since he sells the kits he might be able to send you just a pair of disks?

Yea I think so, plus I'm pretty sure the 9:1 is on the FTE? So with an n/a head gasket it'd be even higher.

What about Wiseco 9:1s, wouldn't they do the job?

^ Haha

I'm sure the wrist pin is the same across all the 4E and 5E engines. I think the n/a engines are around 9:1 c/r while the turbos are 8.2:1? In terms of physical dimension difference I'm not 100%, but I think the n/a pistons are about 2-3mm higher?

You mean the bore diameter mate or the actual heights, wrist pin size etc?

I believe it attaches to the rear beam using clamps, but will need to be either welded or drilled & bolted to the chassis also.

I got myself one of those same gearknobs a couple weeks back, was actually quite pleased with it for the money haha. Nice little updates mate, look forward to seeing more soon!

I love how you corrected the gender, but had no issues with transporting your child in a strapped-down box haha

To be fair, his sample Ford ones that he makes look much better quality than the crappy Whiteline one. If it undercut by £30 odd he'd probably do ok out of it.

^ What they said! I'd take the panhard rod if you do split though.

Worth checking round the rocker cover gasket - mine is seeping by the cambelt cover, goes through loads of oil atm as I haven't gotten round to fitting the replacement! Can tell as there is a load of sludge on the left-hand engine mount.