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Everything posted by JDMfreak
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my bad lol heres the proper ones inlet side 90913-02086 exhaust side 90913-02088
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sounds very like your tappy sound could be wrong though https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=kQbILvqiUqw
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I know these engine are getting on now aswell im gonna chuck a set of valve stem seals in it to eliminate them I think the smoke on idle is more condensation tbh as it gotten fairly cold these last few weeks pcv valve is working fine
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http://japan-parts.eu/toyota/eu/1997/starlet/ep91r-agmnkw/3_121550_006_/tool-engine-fuel/1302_camshaft-valve the part number is 13711A
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Not a great engine bay shot but looks better
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im gonna go for the simplest thing to do a set of valve stem sills see if that helps with the bluey grey smoke when I rev it its more so my mot/nct tester wont fail it tbh I found a full guide on doing the valve stem sills so should be straight forward I hope
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having a same issue mines smokey when revved but grand idling
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haha was written on cam belt cover when belt was done im gonna order valve stem sills see how it goes ive after putting too much into it now not to do it so might be rebuilt up yet
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right may order a set of them up have part numbers so will be calling Toyota tomorrow theres only 93.394 on the engine in the car came outta corolla e11 couldn't be that worn I was half thinking of picking another car up and pull the engine outta it and rebuild this one
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noticed the car when I rev it is a bit smokey the smoke is a kinda bluey grey colour fine when driving when ya put the foot in seems grand though would I be right in thinking valve stems want doing
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would love this for my ep82 funds are just to low glws wont stay around at that price
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ive always done it since I owned it I know its a bit ott i know but i don't leave it running for ages just till it warms up quarter way and oil is warmed up 10 15 mins at max i know oil isn't fully warmed by then
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I have a glanza v as a daily only thing I don't like is first thing I morning I cant get into it and drive it straight away ive always since i bought it allowed it time to heat up and get oil upto temp and then drive easy for maybe 5 miles before it gets any sort of boost at all. as for mpg ive never really worked it out its usually always half full or over if not filled up i do have to admit the upper part of tank last a lot longer as its bigger than when its halfway down. don't go rushing into buying one if ya have a friend or someone ya know know with a really good one test drive it
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where did ya pick the headunit up it looks a perfect fit for the gt
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I have these decals on panels if you want me to try remove them
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Item For Sale: 93 starlet for breaking Item Condition & Description: have a good few bits left from this as was my donor car Price: price varies on different parts prices are all listed beside parts prices are in euros some parts are missing from car already any bits listed below are there gt bonnet 30 wings 10 doors 20 boot lid 20 2e-e engine can be seen running 150 5 speed gearbox 30 exhaust from manifold to back box back 50 non p/s rack and column 30 rear lights 10 indicators missing top clips but still useable 15 the pair wishbones 10 each dash 10
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Jdmfreaks ep80 2ee to 4efe project thread **18/10/2015**
JDMfreak replied to JDMfreak's topic in EP80/EP82 Progress Blogs
time for another update car is now back home and finished well apart from a few silly little things need to get some tyres and make a boot mat and fix blow in exhaust then nct/mot time anyways a couple of pics of her at home with a driveway buddy -
right some progress on this its sorted had a mate look a look at the fan being constantly on he did some checking figured I had a wiring issue between ac pressure switch and rad fan switch basically what he did was the solid lime green wire at the pressure sensor is the radiator fan signal wire to activate or stop the fan turning on he cut the earth wire at the rad fan and joined it into the ac pressure sensor wire the lime green one which runs back to rad fan switch in thermostat housing basically when the rad fan sensor in thermostat housing melts the wax inside the switch creates an
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Its a good idea to do the rear axle as the bushes are God knows how old and will stop any shifting atall seeing as you have the rest done you may aswell do it have you the arb done or have ya a adjustable one fitted
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Welcome alongvyou can you use a image host to upload your pictures to and copy the code into your posts
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Put it on floor level and press shutter see if pic comes out clear
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what colour is this ive 2 sensors in my housing one is a single wire other is a 2 wire this plug is green other one is a push on clip
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my car never had ac from factory the loom I fitted does have all the necessary connections for ac ive tried bridging the pressure sensor located beside battery and still no joy think ya replied to my thread on tggt
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can anyone help ive been trouble shooting my fan constantly on with no success of turning it off its driving me bonkers as car is always running cool so means ive no decent heaters and im guessing car is running rich as engine thinks its always cold or barely warm im looking at fitting a fan controller with seprate thermostat housing sensor so I can remove the fan relay it self and wire in a stand alone fan controller I can set at a desired temperature at what they would normally run at and when the sensor in thermostat housing reaches that temp it will turn fan on and when cooled enough t
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bump £20 takes this