JayJ

I'm currently running a stock ecu and got this issue too. Could it be water temp sensor playing or what?

I have heard a lot of good reviews about bilt hamber deox gel, but haven't used myself. It's also safe for paint work, so maybe worth a shot? Have a read http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=55949

Have you tried both auto and normal TPS with this ecu?

A bit misleading as title says "auto ecu in manual", first sentence says "aftermarket ecu for a Auto Glanza" and then "once the manual one is fitted again it lights up fine". So are you trying to run an automatic Glanza with a manual ecu or vice versa? :-D

I ran auto JAM ecu on my manual Glanza and it was working fine as long as I had it on

As above, definately sounds like a door sensor problem, check the sensors and wirings

Will the red "door open" dash light turn on when you open the door?

Liam has done a nice job, looks superb. I Can't wait to hear how it performs! And if you don't have any use for the stat and cap, just bin or make some money

2013 dgr group buy never forget

Thanks Marc! :-]

Looks smart! Also got some ideas from this to my projector headlights! :-P

>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PVJGWOwUtc Dyno run :-P

Based on what?

There were two different issues with it, but now it's working finally! First the receiver was unplugged, so obviously it couldn't work, but after plugging in it still didn't work. Then I unplugged my turbo timer, tried again and this time everything went as it should! So for some odd reason the turbo timer, even it was turned off, blocked the car from going to programming mode. Next step is to get the fob working when the turbo timer is active.

Two or three weeks ago we made a floor in the boot and relocated the battery on top of it. Still need to make it a bit tidier and put back the rear braces, but you get the idea. I'm waiting a couple of things to arrive before I can finish ICE installation. To-do list is quite long, but easy does it! Projector headlights, EMU, some wirings, passenger door lock removal, alarm system, wind deflectors and the list goes on..

I have Odyssey 680 race battery in a boot, Nice small size and high current output, but it's only 17Ah, so you can't leave electronics on for a long time. cables running under the sill cover and next to/under the rear seats to the boot. Earth point is currently on the back sheet, but it's not the best one. Starter can pull quite many amps, so fuse should be large(I'm not using one, yet )

Red light flashes if I press the button

Interior light works and both locks open with the key from the driver's door. Tried this: Unlock the car. Climb in and close the door. Insert the key into the ignition barrel, turn the ignition ON-OFF 3 times Pull the key out of the barrel then press the button on the new fob. Locks should now cycle on, off. Insert key back into the ignition, and then again turn the ignition ON-OFF 3 times. Pull the key out of the barrel and then, again press the button on the new fob. Locks should now cycle on, off. The fob is now programmed to the car, just double check by pressing the button on the fob a couple of times, the locks should god up and down.

I can't get the fob work Could someone confirm, if this is the unit and how this thing is disassembled?

Happy days! Just got a call from Toyota that my fob has arrived!

T10 led bulbs with flat head, so they spread the light(I have red ones). Something like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/x2-501-T10-W5W-bulbs-bright-red-LED-light-pair-/151266228149?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23382b77b5

You can keep the bulbs, but there might be a little bit of back glow then, but shouldn't be too bad. Without bulbs the needles won't lit at all. Needles will look quite "faded" for two reasons, contrast between normal and plasma dials is so huge and bulbs aren't located optically. That's why I recommended to use leds to get the needles lit brighter.

IIRC you can also put the plasma dials over the old dials if you don't want to remove them.