rmsnoel

Bump again still looking

Tein do 56_60mm springs for under £150

I may just take the cat out

My opinion is for a few pounds more u can join the meister groupbuy here on the forum and be safe and secure with a proven brand and have someone to shout at if u have problems. Im not slaggin the dd cause i dont know anything about them

Ok so I just put a can of this stuff through my engine. I have 100,000miles and I suspected my valves were not shutting properly. It didnt take long, I had clouds of something shoot out my exhaust dirt gunk etc. I went for a spin and the butt dyno told me it felt faster. I got to my usual spot, did my usual automatic launch and got to my usual spot were I should be going 60mph and instead I was going 70moh. Thats the same improvement I had from fitting the cams so Ill goin to refit the cams and try it again. Ill also get a timed run when theres daylight. Very happy and for only 8gbp http://i

Get that engine cleaned!!

Theres also a rev feed in the diagnostics port so u can connect any rev counter and check your revs.

Use a paperclip or any stiff wire. Youll here your idle valve open up making a swooosh noise then close fully. Your timing is now locked at 10° btdc and your idle should be at the correct. If not adjust your throttle stop. The most common problem is your throttle is dirty. Clean it with a cloth and your finger while holding open the throttle with your other hand. It shouldnt matter if your throttlecable is loose because the idle should be set spot on from the factory and its usually oily buildup or human error that messes it up. Have u done anything to your car??

Use toyodiy.com to cross reference the part numbers. Im a cheap cunt but dont cheap on a headgasket

65gbp new the pair on ebay. KYB excelG or monroe monotube gas adjust. Monotube is best

You could always check does it hit the rev limit at 6500rpm . If the throttlebody isnt dirty and you havnt messed with anything else it should idle at 750_800. If you bridge te1 & e1 in the diagnostics plug the car will hold idle at 750_800

Bimp

Use sealant lad, even new gaskets need sealant to be perfect

It should be 750.

Bump still looking a good gearbox. Na corolla cynos glanza etc I wonder would a C15# from a e11 1.4 corolla fit??

Try a kettle or two of hot water and two claw hammers to pry it off. Or a grinder with a skinny cutting disc

Clean your throttlebody. Think about your idle control valve here. When u start up from cold your idle valve lets in alittle more air, this keeps the revs abit high until the engine warms up. When the coolant reaches tempature the valve closes. Your warm car should idle at 750_800. Id say around your throttle butterfly is oily or the idle valve is dying. Its free to clean the throttlebody. Id bet if u tighten the throttle cable to idle at 900 you will have no problems

Tights and bike tube will hold moisture, just bury them in grease or waxoyl. Put lots of grease on the rear topmounts, ALL over them as theres a certain other more expensive brand that rust and crack, yes alloy rusts :-)

It sounds like you need a new clutch soon. Theres a stupid looking nut on the front of the gearbox and one underneath. It looks like a 50pence coin sort of. The bottom one is the draun and tge side one is the level. Drain out oil when its warm and refill until it comes out the side bolt. 75w90, use expensive stuff as its still under 10gbp and you will never be doing it again. Changing the clutch is a 3hour job no rush with a mate to help. Theres lots of threads on both topics on here if u want to do a search

I dont think there are any good ones left. You should get it tappef for the three bolts, youd hate to kill your engine if it did leak. Use the fte head because the cams are different well the inlet at least.

The clutch release bearing would be noisy at idle then quiet when you press in the clutch. If its only in certain gears or at certain speeds then its something else. For the price I suggest u change the gearbox oil

That is a beautiful wheel

Can this be used on a non turbo if u use the turbo clutch?

Yeah I know but its the best way to test for gains rather than shopping for a free flow backbox first. It sounds cool with the 4branch though

No man you need the intake piping to create torque. Tried and tested with cold air ducting and green cotton cone I had less pulling power uphill. Exhaust maybe, Ill just take off the backbox and do a timed run again