morgey

Has anyone actually contacted ebc to see if theyve got a answer to why this might have happened. I've used ebc a few times and although not amazing theyve never done this and repeatedly pull my car up well from high speeds.

Looking good. If you copy the IMG link from photobucket the images will display rather than having links

Welcome back

Welcome back lol, didnt realise you were still on L's?

If it were me id just get an emanage blue or det 3 and have a play about mapping it myself you can take that across to a glanza that way. Plus Whats a 4efe these days £50? As for mods CAI Fte or corolla inlet 2" exhaust 4-2-1 mani if you can find one. Map it. Also a Good service and renew any old ignition parts. Leads, dizzy blah blah

Dont know if ep7* spring are different to ep91 stuff but theres some 30mm springs for them here. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/lowering-springs/car/toyota/starlet-96-99/1998/1-3-ep91

Theres also rubber grommets in the floor. Both mine are missing

Most id expect is around the 90 mark with your usual bolt ons. Get a jdm ep80 with 100hp stick a corolla g6 6 speed on it and leave it as lol

I approve, get Mr moss on the case for some nice jdm wheels 👍

Was at a dyno day a year or so back and a mates n/a fezzie st was in the 10s (stock 😂), the operator reckons he'd only expect to see a car with low 10 afr's if it was a drag car or very high performance.

Biggest problem with the ep91 is the lip on the underside of the arch. Roll that and you can get much lower and nearly 1 inch wider with the same offset

Youd probably need to reSYNCHROnise after a career change anyway.

You lot really are Clutching at straws here...

Coolant lines and earth wires on inlet are common ones. Fitting the inlet shouldnt make any difference to oil burning. Could it be coolant you're smelling/seeing?

Might require a 'Shift' in mentality for that

I've been GEARing up for a change in jobs...

They are oem lights from the jap spec reflet and facelift versions. Can be had from toyota.

The factory speedlines are 15x6 et39 and sit a good 10-15mm in from factory. 6.5x15 et 35 will be 10.5mm further out than the speedlines. They will be fairly flush maybe in a few mm but not much. If you want to work out the offset required to get it flush you can work it out with a pumpbob (string and a weight) and a tape measure. Hang the plumpbob from the arch the measure from the disc center to the string. Say its 50mm for instance. Then just take 1/2 your wheel width minus offset of wheel. So 6.5÷2= 3.25. Convert to metric 3.25 x 25.4 = 82.55 Then take your offset from that 82.55-35= 47.55 You would be 2.5mm inside the arch with the wheel vertical (no camber)

Haha nope not yet. There will most likely be a post go up when they go out so people can check that they got them and any issues be resolved before JAE

If you got advance tickets through UKSO they will be emailed out in due course along with your stand pass. For anyone else who didn't get the advance tickets will need to purchase a standpass from the club store (emailed out nearer the time) but their JAE admission ticket from the JAE website here... http://www.japcarclub.org/index.php/shop/tickets

Id start with either something you can hide the edges on or a straight bar like this, the oem brace would be pretty awkward due to the curve and trying to hide the ends somehow. It very quickly becomes messy where the strands pull out when brushing the epoxy on. Plug cover and cambelt cover would be good, flynn sold his recently but i just wasn't sure i wanted that much carbon just yet lol

Welcome

I wouldn't go that far to cover everything, I've got a bit of stuff left so might do my fuse box cover or maybe the injector wiring cover but thats probably it. I like the idea of the brace but its a bit more pain that id liked as the epoxy seems to react funny with paint so getting a nice finish on the ends is causing issues. In future ill stick to something that can be completely wrapped rather than half and half

Unfortunately no progress with the brace, having a cba moment with it. But i did decide to pull my bumper off and bolt up my header tank bracket and remount my fan. The bolt goes into the chassis rail so needed access, bumper and bumper bar off and 1 nut and larger washer on and we were good to go. Also shortened the header tank pipe. No pictures of the fan but it was on some little brackets with springs holding it all off the rad. I cant imagine it was very efficient because it had a 10mm gap around the fan shroud to rad. My thinking would be that air takes the path of least resistance, so rather than through the rad it would go straight out the sides. I've now done away with the brackets and have pulled the fan up against the rad directly so now it sits flush therefore forcing the air through the rad. Also gave her a clean because she got durrrty sitting under some trees. Another thing im going to be doing is making a nice alloy bracket to mount my alpha horns onto the car with so I've now got them at work. Will date with pics when thats done too

Its good for a while but not as long as mcpherson. And i would never trust 2nd hand parts with SS its not worth the hassle changing them and the cost that they still fetch (im going on ae111 levin sss prices) I have seen a company that offers refurb on gt4 ss which is cheaper but its still not going to last 100k miles like mcpherson components. As for the aftermarket support i know its there but its not as common place as evo or scooby equivalent and therefore is more money. All of this leads to the cheaper price of them imo