morgey

Stick it in the ebay/gumtree section. I dont think you'll hear too much till sunday night now with it being JAE weekend anyway.

Discs are fairly straight forward. Loosen wheel nuts. Jack car up safely Remove wheel Undo 2 17mm bolts on back of the caliper carriers Knock caliper off of disc Knock disc off Clean hub of any debris, dirt and grime Put a small film of copper grease on hub face to stop disc rusting to it in future. Clean new discs with alcohol or degreaser. Fit disc If doing pads aswell you will want a G clamp to push the piston back in on the caliper then fit new pads. Then its just a case of reversing the above steps. If youre not sure have a mate who knows what he/shes doing to watch over and help out

They are fitted with before the stubaxle is pressed into the bearing stopping it from being removed but You can unbolt and cut through it or in most cases it will have rusted so much it can be pulled apart.

Bit of bending they just about clear

Printed my tickets earlier. Still got a day and a half at work then pack, buy supplies, turn my car into a bed and then drive up! Hoping for a late afternoon/early evening arrival, someone best have a cold beer or cider waiting for me 😉

Yeah full toilet and shower facilities

Cheers Popped down to see how the car was coming along. Still not started 😑

Ill be coming friday afternoon and can grab some bits if need be.

£156 to remove and refit? I was quoted £130 for a new screen fitted, that was a few years back mind but still.

Ebcs website states 200miles. I checked and gave mine a bit longer and they cleared up

Booster id expect the pedal to be hard when the cars running. Master id expect it to be spongey when off.

If you dont think the pads are at issue them maybe its master cylinder or booster problems?

What pads are they and how new? When i first got my ebc yellow stuffs i did about 500 miles easy driving and even after that i had huge fading issues to the point i almost didnt stop for a junction or 2. Turned out i still hadnt worn the bedding in material off.

Could easily add a crank aswel if using car pistons and rods.

This is what me and a mate came up with for his garage. These are old industrial air compressor pistons, large ones about 250-300mm diameter. He skimmed a tad off the conrod faces so they clamped to the bar and put grub screws in agaisnt the gudgeon pin to stop them rotating.

Yeah yours will need to read upto 180

Hopefully the stock 180kph dials are still behind that. The convertor uses that but instead of it being kph it is actually mph. Some people stick a little M over the K on the kph text on the dial face 😉

Well chuffed with them considering i was just like erm can i have a standard wheel silver haha. Just wish the car was out the bodyshop already haha

Got my speedlines back, going to look very factory fresh which is what i was going for Cars still not gone in the body shop so no updates there 😕

Moved to the wanted section

Haha fair enough. I figured with painting it you may as well fix it up completely but guess you dont need it tidy with the other motor.

In need of some tlc thats for sure. Plus how far out does that backbox sit haha. Look forward to seeing the progress with it

Why am i not surprised 😂

Awaits to see a set of 90s center lock race wheels from a calsonic gtr or similar turn up and a full hub conversion commence 😂

Im pretty sure with the stock ecu the coolant temp sensor can cause issues like this, can you plug it in and monitor the ecu readings at all?