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Everything posted by morgey
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Its not just the weight though its position, center of weight, driveshaft angles etc. If you know what you're doing though it would be a great engine to have in one.
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A k20 with some select mods and a remap can put out 250hp All day everyday And sounds fucking mega screaming away at 9k Until someone does it though It doesnt really matter. Plus The 4e would be better as the chassis is designed for it.
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Yup open diff im affraid. You changing the driveshaft seal by any chance?
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it works 100% of the time and reads pretty accurate for the best part. But it fluctuates at higher rpms, jumps up and down by a few 100rpm or so like its getting interference from something. If you look at the 2nd half of the video at the top of this page just as i click into 4th you can see the revs hunting abit around 7k.
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- itbs
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It actually does sit pretty level now its settled that 1st pic was just after dropping it down after fitting it all, plus The exhaust always has been low on this but this is now stupid. It scrapes down my lane with just me in it haha. Yes funnily enough it was COP, now its getting its signal from the ignitor, iirc it goes through a connector in the car and that had a splitter built in so it might be getting a false signal though that. What ever it is it seems to do it either at WOT or only in the higher RPM range?
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Cheer man Tbh its probably too low, the exhaust catches everywhere as it is, i need to get an extra hanger added to hopefully fix that issue but i might change up to 16's? The wiring was an absolute nightmare on this because its a complete bodge car from toyota. It was a test mule for the 1.4 in the uk so theres 2 different ecus, 2 or 3 different wiring looms and no pinouts anywhere online, so it was a case of try and see. The obd diag system was a bit of a faff but a lot of it still lays in the dash loom but doesnt connect to anything as the 20v ecu doesnt have any use for half of it. Li
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What is the uk spec 4efe stArlet gearbox
morgey replied to jack_wetone's topic in Drivetrain & Transmission
This is true but everywhere online seems to think the c140 is also a 4 speed Also. Ill check mine out tomorrow its a uk spec. I wouldnt be surprised if they got it wrong though haha -
If you look through the cv joint holes it should have a pin going across it thats an open diff. If it doesnt and has a plate across or a small round hole through its an aftermarket lsd
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What is the uk spec 4efe stArlet gearbox
morgey replied to jack_wetone's topic in Drivetrain & Transmission
General rule of thumb with toyota boxes 2 digit is thicker gears 3 digit is narrow gears (this is the case with C series boxes) the 4, 5 or 6 dictates the amount of gears. C52,56 turbo boxes, thicker gears. C150 uk spec Problem with this is i think the lsd box is a c153 but that should have thicker gears lol #tomuchinfo haha -
What is the uk spec 4efe stArlet gearbox
morgey replied to jack_wetone's topic in Drivetrain & Transmission
C150 The 140 is a 4 speed. -
If it has this sticky out bit from the bell housing its an oem lsd. If its flat across the bell housing mating face its open diff Not my image by the way
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Approved, but could you get a picture of your MBC up instead of a google image please
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never had an idea, still have no idea, currently a sort of part time CNC machinist and other stuff.
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Anyone made the most of this fine Sunday ??
morgey replied to aleximport25's topic in Lifestyle General
My outside tap broke and the garden and drive are water logged so no car stuff for me! -
Cheers man, been well worth it, just making it into the car it should have been! I've got a new genuine o2 sensor to fit soon as its developed as flat spot around 3.5k which is fairly common on the 20v's so if that fixes it then i will be doing the same on the starlet as that also has the same issue. If its not that then I've a bit of problem solving to do!
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I never did show what was up with the gearbox on this before i rebuilt it. Basically it had a really bad 2nd gear crunch. Turns out it wasnt a worn synchro as such... More of a broken one, there was remains of it in the oil channel up the output shaft and into bearing outlets so made sure that it was all clear and also replaced the bearings that were fed by it incase they were worn. I spent a fair bit on the box and more than i actually needed to bit it feels like new now so im happy i spent it now
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Apart from the oem rear strut brace as theres no bolt holes in the boot floor on the uk spec
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Yes any ep91 or ep82 suspension parts are interchangeable.
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Id strip it completely, if theres swarf in there then theres a good chance it will get in the springs etc. As above do the stem seals as well whilst you have the chance.
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Yeah some n/a's have calipers bolted straight to the hub if yours is like that they wont fit. If they use carriers then they will. Just make sure then ones on ebay are 256mm not the smaller 238mm early gt ones as they have a different size centerbore lol
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Moved to the correct section. Also this has been covered numberous times, have a quick try on the search function you should get a few results
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Most people have issues with disc rear axles. it was hands down the most pointless thing I've done to my car. I've got a bias valve to fit to replace the drum one to see if that helps and all 3 cables to replace then I've got to set the adjustment And i will see if that works but tbh im not holding out any hope. I've replaced discs and pads and tried setting the adjustment and I've also rebuilt my calipers twice and theyre still terrible Really wouldnt waste your time or money lol
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It bolts on. U need Can either swap the whole axle. You will also need handbrake cables and the flexi brake lines too. Or you can buy the calipers, carriers, baseplates, discs, cables and flexi lines and swap them onto your axle. In all honesty though the disc rear brakes are terrible the drums work 1000x better and dont seize half as often either.
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If i hear of amything ill let you know