FMuscle

Unless you ran out of fluid in the reservoir, you shouldn't have to bleed the rears.

>http://youtu.be/F1jx5NvHiSE

Yes, but not yet. I still have to save up for the Haltech and tune, and make all the brackets and piping... I will use the 4E as a template for this, as I could leave it to a welder while I bed in my stage 3 clutch...

Ok it's been a while since I updated. Sorry 'bout that, I've been busy, changed jobs, been to Canada, etc. Now I'm back on it. I have a few done since last time, I left you with my valves and shims. I set the clearances, Installed the cams and the cambelt. Also the coolant and thermostat housing. On the car, I installed more of Jezza's goodies, bonnet lifts are up and running, I also did the front Park lights mods. I started my brakes conversion with the Paseo rear axle I had collecting dust and wasting space. Followed a few weeks later by the front end... I removed some unwa

I'd just use a couple of relays and a switch to cut the starter wire and trigger the alarm. Not approved for insurance discounts, but much safer than the commercial approved ones that every one knows how to deactivate and bypass...

What kind/grade of oil goes in the non LSD manual box (C150)? I couldn't find the info anywhere...

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http://miataturbo.wikidot.com/fuel-injectors Found this list of injectors that'd fit if you want to search by model/part number.

No I just did mine, you remove the wheel and caliper and they just slide out.

I have 2 now, had my 1997 for 16 months, nothing except normal wear and maintenance. I've had my 1999 for 3 months, replaced clutch, radiator, thermostat, and there's a misfire, exhaust knocking on the floorboard, didn't come with keys, previous owner lost them and removed the barrel and put switches instead. I fitted the lock from my '97 passenger door (different key) to be able to lock it...

3/8". or 9mm. There is also a few 4mm hoses, to the fpr and the MAP sensor.

There's another one in the rear, L-shaped linking the thermostat housing and the water pump. I don't think there is a kit, you'd have to buy individually... My local store doesn't even list the rear one...

Well here it's summer, but I'm almost ready to swap the 5E in, then I can use the 4E block to make the FZE brackets and piping...

I went Paseo. Bought a mildly wrecked one for the engine and saved seats, shifter, 5 alloy wheels, front brakes and rear axle. Swapping the fronts tomorrow, did the rear a couple of weeks ago.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp enjoy!

I use www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp to find the right sizes. 185/60R14 is only 0.3% off the stock 175/70R13 that were on my N/A. And they look like this on OEM Paseo wheels:

That is good to know if I ever have to go back. I'd need to bypass the system again. Not that I want to, I don't want to go back to that shithole again except to bring back my Camaro over here...

I'd go with 7 or 8mm ID. Going silicone I'd go more on 7, the silicone easily stretches over the fittings anyways.

Did they change the law again or is it different by province? I was in quebec, and with the fast&furious import frenzy they shut the door to imports under 25 or 30 years old from the 15 it was before...

I know it's a long shot, but I'd like to find lenses for the crystal headlamps. i.e. if you have an assembly with broken clips or housing but lens is good I'd take that... as long as the lens is not damaged (can be worn, as long as it can be restored). Thanks

I did this, one of my first mods when I got the P9. No big deal in Australia for the freezing issue, but I also did it on my 2010 Kia when I was in eastern Canada. Never any issue in winter with temp down to -35°C. This with an inlet thermal spacer is great, even better with a CAI. I would say the most important part to cool the temperature is the spacer, followed by the bypass. the CAI is more for air flow (and sound) than temperature.

ttt

Here it is, go some delivery problems but... I too had to modify the tabs on the holders. I removed the marker, and removed the lens to have an inside look as to the best position and where to cut. Then I took the wires for the indicator and brought them back in the engine bay, through the hole they go out of from factory. I think that working there is a little more comfy than trying to do it stuck in the wheelwell between the fender and frame... I I.D'd the wires on the socket, for me it was black/earth, Red/bright, and green/dim. So I hooked up the White/black on the black and the gr

What about going hydraulic? Are you allowed to?

I guess It's time to change to hydraulic handbrake then... ;)