RobSR

If you did run a massive gate to compensate you'd be getting boost spikes all over the place aswell, and it'll make solid boost control a pig. Run two smaller gates like mentioned.

Like said in my thread i didnt end up doing a tutorial in the end. You hardly need any pressure to compress a starlet valve spring. Refitting them is the fiddly bit! Dab abit of grease on your finger / what ever you use to put the collects back so it sticks to it - helps be abit more precise then.

Do the head bolts if you take the head off yes. Tbh for the amount of money you'll put into it you'd probs be able to buy a running fte off a reputable seller on here.

AVC-R's are good if you have a million hours and have someone who knows what they are doing to setup. If you want a simple boost controller that does what it says on the tin get a blitz DSBC.

As above please people!

^ Yea sidewalls go abit iffy. I think the only tyre thats going to be awesome in all aspects is A048's but you've gotta ask yourself are they worth the extra money etc etc. Think I'm gonna give the Nankangs a try, wanna try some dunlops too actually.

^ magnet is a massive help.. Yes block the oil ways and any holes in the head lol.

My compressors pretty large so it was fine. My mate did his on his Astra with a tiny compressor and was fine again so I'm sure you won't have any issues. I was gonna try and do a guide but after the collet falling into the sump i got frustrated and just cracked on getting it done so the guide/tutorial took a back seat!

Did abit more this afternoon.. Made some brake line so the fronts are done. Now just need to do the rears which I'm running through the car to incorporate a adjustable bias valve. Gave the head a lick of silver too! IMG_1265 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1266 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1268 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr

If you have enough sensors you won't need to run any other gauges as the Dash2 can display it all if your ecu is capable of running a CAN interface. Was going to put one of these in Si's build before he decided not to continue it. They are an awesome bit of kit.

Awesome, even when you had it off me at 225,000 that must of been one of the highest miler EP's out there.

Yea it was me buddy. Good to hear, let me know how you get on! How many miles are on it now?

Nah you're right, i noticed that last night lol!

Stock is 1.2mm. Just get the head skimmed if you go for a MLS Athena one. You still on the engine that was in the car when you brought it? If so and it hangs together with some boost going through it thats heroic!

Don't really need fully synth in an older engine as sometimes it can run past the seals if they are worn.

Oh dear mate. I would suggest an athena 1.2mm.

Cracked on with this yesterday. Doesn't look like it but got quite a lot done! Arches all undersealed with new brake lines being ran, still need to make a small section up for the fronts and order an adjustable bias valve. Decided to tackle the valve stem oil seals, didnt really want to take the head off as i live by the 'if it works don't disturb it' and did it with the head on, using a compressor to pressurise the cylinder to hold the valves closed - all worked fine until a collet popped off and fell down an oil gallery into the sump, so that then had to come off. Got there in the end, not too hard to do - just abit of a fiddle. Started building the engine back up with a new belt, pump and half of the timing belt cover painted in a rarther nice Nissan Atomic Gold. Paint is stupidly expensive mind. Some pics IMG_1241 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1243 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1244 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1245 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1247 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1248 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1250 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1251 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1252 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1254 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1256 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1259 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1260 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr IMG_1263 by Rob Fisher [RobFisherPhotographic.co.uk], on Flickr

Tried the master cylinder?

Toyota or Idress sells replacements.

Tein direct, they are based in Milton Keynes too mate so not far from us. Ive used them before and allow you to pickup too to save on postage.

That works but gears are longer so not ideal. You can run a fte aftermarket lsd in a N/A box along as you have the ring gear from the fte box to go with the diff too.

EBC are wank, mintex 1155 are okay. Gonna put some xp8's/10's in mine on the stock calliper and see what happens.

Any non restrictive 2.5 - 3" system will be fine. Like mentioned Dean @ RW Developments is worth a call.

The less back pressure the better especially on turbo charged cars. Side exits work well, better spool and lower egt's if they are a tapered design too. As shaun explained with n/a exhausts you don't need back pressure its a myth. Its about getting the 'harmonics' correct. Think about a pipe organ in a church as an example, feck off massive pipes, but when tuned correctly make a very precise sound. Same with an exhaust on an N/a you can have large bore, but it needs to be designed correctly to be effective.

Looking awesome mate! Need to get mine done 040!