Stu

Yes I would agree

Ah ok, well its possible they havent worked out the preload on the bearings properly? If the bearings don't have enough preload they can be quite noisy.

Yeah its certainly off putting when its making noise! Id go back to who built it and get them to take it for a drive. My guess is they havent set the preload on the diff bearings correctly and its a bit loose possibly. Did they pull the diff down as well?

My guess would be Cusco RS or MZ. Here's one for comparison and TRD one on the right.

Thats not always the case though unfortunately, the helical LSD will spin the other wheel in the opposite direction or in some cases not spin the other wheel at all - they need load on them to lock up. Clutch plate style aftermarket LSD's will spin both wheels in the same direction as there is preload on the clutch plates.

What sort of noise is it making? All the time or on decel? Is it a diff noise or gearset?

Nice work! Looking great

Well I've basically done nothing to this since May and there is an event I would like to get to in December so thought I should probably make a start. Trailered the car to some new workshop space as my place is too full of customers car. Made a start on the manifold and hope to have it all tacked together one night next week.

The reason we did it was because the aftermarket regs of the time did drop their pressure slightly over time and needed to be monitored and adjusted. Factory reg at least maintains idle/cruise is as per factory. I know what your saying and your right, less base pressure on the second reg would work the best. Your still battling the stock ecu and it's fuel map anyway so there are always compromises. I run a single aftermarket reg on my car and I wired in a link ecu with fuel pressure monitoring so if the reg does shift base pressure slightly the ecu compensates.

Looking good mate, keep us updated with progress. Don't forget to twist up those circuits for wiring bling

1-2psi doesnt make all that much difference (not noticable at idle/cruise anyway) but yes your right the second reg holds the system pressure up. You could set lower if you wanted. We used to do it alot many years ago mainly using Malpassi rising rate regs - can't remember what rate it ramped at. The current nz quarter mile record holder used that exact setup

Or the teeth have worn on the drive, they are only plastic.

Whats the AFR's doing when it does this? In your tune, check what your warm up enrichment tables are doing. Its possible that on cold start up the enrichment is supplying enough fuel for it to idle but when it drops away as it gets hot there may not be enough crank enrichment to start it again? By checking the tune you can also quickly make sure the water temp sensor is actually working. Bit more outside of the square but check the dwell time tables on your aftermarket ecu. Make sure the coils are not working too hard and overheating and shutting down. I had that on a customers car

You can fit the adjustable reg in the return line after the stock reg and just set the base pressure a few psi higher. That way idle/cruise etc all runs the same on a stock ecu, and its just when its on boost that it ups the pressure to add more fuel. Definitely need a wide band oxygen sensor to check the tune though.

Awesome!

Haha "LifeWink"

Pretty cool with the 45's on there! Would sound awesome under wide open throttle

Yeah I run 185/55's on mine!

Looks great! Nice work. Needs an si front lip to finish the front end off

If you have a search the knock sensor issue has been covered many times. In my experience with the stock knock sensor and wiring, the code is cause be the wiring 90% of the time. I've only had to replace half a dozen or so knock sensors over the years

Usually the standard circuit open relay is fine to run the pump, I'd guess there might be a poor earth or short somewhere that caused the issue. I wire up alot of ecu's and generally still use the factory relay setup and just use the aftermarket ecu to trigger it. I only usually change the relay setup where its a more serious setup with a need for higher voltage or greater current capacity to the pump. Even with the alternator charging at say 14v the fuel pump can sometimes be only seeing 12-12.5v via the stock wiring.

If going to be using a standard automotive bosch relay and assuming you have fixed the original setup which then its pretty easy to wire up. Basically use the original feed wire to trigger the new relay - there wont be any load on the original wiring/circuit open relay that way. On the normally open relay the terminals are labled: 30 - Load feed ie fused supply from the battery, large capacity wire 85 - 12v Trigger, use the existing 12v fuel pump feed 86 - Ground 87 - 12v Output to fuel pump Or if you wanted to forgo the factory circuit open relay you can wire it: 30 - Load feed

C56 has the same strength as a C52, just had different ratios - they are about as good as you are going to get unfortunately. The E series boxes are physically much larger and while they would handle what ever you can throw at it, they would required a fair chunk of custom fabrication and body chop to make it fit. Out of interest, what gearbox oil were you using in the gearbox that stripped the gears?

Yep not worth it. Best thing you can do is make sure you have good earths from the engine to the chassis/battery. The head to drivers side strut tower lead is quite small diameter so I tend to change that out for a larger diameter cable especially in setups where the battery is in the boot. Clean terminal to chassis/battery connections helps.