Sam44

just out of interest how much could you get a used low mileage 4efe engine for. in the video above ep80 turboed, we see a different approach to installing a turbo to a 4e engine. this means that not as many original 4efte parts are required also the power steering on the e11 would not require modifying. a simpler build to do, with parts being made from your local hydraulic hose repair shop (turbo feed pipe and return). the same approach stevei82 used to turbo his 4efe ep91 uk starlet, he might give you a run down on what he used if you message him on here, the link to his build is above. with the new use of what is know as the race spec rocker cover & catch can used a lot on the starlet builds you could sit your e11 at a commutable 130hp for now really quite easily on a tdo4l like in the kit above. your original clutch might hold up. id put the uprated corolla clutch (stage 2 clutch) in there for good measure, as well as a adjustable hks actuator so you can set the boost pressure right. the only worry I have with this approach is the volume of oil supplied to the turbo unit as well as the affects on the volumes delivered to the crank. I would up the oil pressure/volume if I used this method, with the simple washer in the oil relief valve, as well as making sure the turbo oil delivery pipe has the correct restriction diameter to not affect engine oil pressure and still maintain good delivery to the turbo. ill message the young lad that did the ep82 in the video link above I can see he will have been running this for awhile now, see if he has had any problems. you could then pick up a low mileage 4efe and get it sorted over a period of time ready to just drop in, and take more power. the interesting thing here is you can skim down the 4efe piston crowns to the 4efte compression with out any loss in strength. infact this will make the pistons lighter and able you to increase the stock rpm limit to the 4efte limit. the only other difference is the inlet cam and the valve springs are stronger for the higher rpm limit. ive been told to use acl high load bigends on this engine going near 170hp and past. which I think tunning developments uk sell for around £55. this engine would take 190hp all day long. a very respectable and hard to beat car.

mine is the cd model starlet it had a engine rpm signal at the clocks, but if you are stuck here there is a engine rpm signal wire at the diagnostic socket used for testing equipment just cut this off the socket and use this to wire threw. ive not come across one member on any forum (starlet owner) that has ever used this diagnostic socket to its full potential. so knowing that feel free to use it for aftermarket equipment/conversions. im working away from the uk just at present and im not back till in the new year, im just waiting on a friend/co worker ho is helping build the starbo. ive messaged him to Email me the diagrams I draw up to convert the uk cd/sr clocks to the glanza v clocks.

agreed, speedlines, speedlines, keep them pictures coming. so sorry to hear about your dad passing,

could you message me the specs (duration and lift on both cams) if thy come case hardened. if possible. I might want a few sets. so we could see if a discount is possible. thanks for your reply and help. ive not managed to find any specs on the 5ehfe units and it would save me time.

im loving the matching dark gray and light gray contrast that continues around the interior. ive never noticed this before. fantastic work. came out like new. yeh I need some dished style, bolster supported seats in the rear. I took some friends out the other month and they had a very intermate experience whilst sitting in the rear together, as I was taking down some corners (your a very very loose fit back there). haha. I think it was rob bower sr that gave me the inspiration. the evo seats have cup holders in the center arm rest also so should make it abit more modern. the cd interior im on is very light gray and yeh old fashioned.

waw like new. I'm really liking this steering wheel. ive got an evo mk2 rear bench seat im going to try and trim down and install into the starlet, using the starlets bench frames. ive seen on here afew lads that have done bench conversions.

ive just fitted recently some 97 glanza v trd clocks into my uk ep91 1997 4efe. ill get my mate to email me the wiring diagrams I put together after the install. ill put these up see if it helps you.

I missed this update 98 spec interior nice. get up a picture of it fitted. keep the great work coming

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TD04-Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold-Decat-Pipe-for-Toyota-EP82-EP91-4EFTE-Starlet-Glanza/113866497622?hash=item1a82f8de56:g:gwQAAOSwz71ZTMAK&redirect=mobile This kit is an absolutely incredible deal. Just make sure to have good strong bracing in place to the engine block and a good big in length exhaust Flexi, as well as use all the original exhaust to body mounting points. This helps stop cracking of the manifold which I believe is common. From what I've been told this design/make of kit in mild steel provides great power and lasts (does not crack) but again as in the previous post above you will need to modify the turbo down/decat pipe to clear the corrola front engine mount and front to back engine mounts support bar. 3x well known starlet tunning shops told me this kit makes very good power. The stainless steel kit requires the turbo and decat bracing to the engine block to last and not crack. This will require additional braces to be fabricated with 1 being weilded to the decat. The power/pull/torque difference from a ct9 to the td04l is alot, very noticeable helping hit higher speeds 40 to 100mph faster. Additional areas of benafits will be mpg due to the tdo4l not providing boost pressure till around 3500rpm on a 4efte, also hitting target speed sooner (on throttle time reduced). on the corrola 4efe with the original inlet you will be at 3000rpm when the tdo4l will start to deliver boost.. This is just after Cruz conditions (what this means is you don't see boost till the point your most likely to need it, also helping traction.

Yeh defo understand that. I would hate to see any 4efe builds wasting a perfectly good 4efe engine. These engines if driven right and looked after will last at 150hp. From the engines I've pulled down so far the internal wear is very low the highest milage engine being a 130kmile unit. The main problems I could find was carboned up piston rings (sticking rings), and valve stem seals leaking due to age, as well as front and rear crank main seals.

Yeh some great builds happening on here just at present so alot of help and experience to do a 4efe+t. Id recommend running a bigger turbo like td04l or tfo35 on the E11 4efe if this is the option chosen. The reason is they will deliver 150hp at lowwer safer boost pressure for the engine. With this you will need the turbo fit to support/house these turbos comprising of exhaust manifold, decat pipe, water lines oil lines and bolts. And aftermarket air filter and piping.

Yeh very much agreed the 4efe will probably need engines seals like valve stem seals. And again the knock control is very very much recommended for higher compression engines like the 4efe. This was why high load ACL bigend bearings were recommended to me straight away while doing the 4efe+t conversion. As well as running it on higher octane fuel. Which you will find will cost you more over a long period of time. The ep82 and ep91 nock control does only operate in the lowwer rpm range. so im hoping the later and faster ems on the e11 4efe does a better job These are all reasons why for the money and limited experience I'd go for the 4efte complete. The 220hp is reference to the injector limit not engine limit around 160hp is what the tunning shops get on turboed 4efe with a long life expectancy. Cheers again claymore I'll edit the list now. List has been updated on the build thread. I've also added the oil filter housing main large hollow center bolt and sealing washer. Yeh the original power steering pump I've recommended keeping. You can remove some of the lower 4efte lower bracket and make a joining bracket to fit. I've also been told the lowwer mount on the E11 power steering pump can be removed and a new bracket fabricated to fit to the 4efte lower mount. This mount is needed to clear the offset 4efte oil filter housing & oil filter. The other option here is to design the turbo oil feed and supply like how the lad in the video above has done this will not affect the power steering pump.

its upto you personally if I was yourself id get an unopened low mileage 98sepc glanza engine. and go that rout they will do 150hp all day. but as ive said its your choice. if you take your time and search on forums you will find all the parts.

They do like nice and thick. Decent and lot better than factory.

looks awesome, have you got a web site. for future turbo work I recon im going to need.

OH YEH. top notch work. brand new.

With the milage that is currently on it i'd recommend doing an engine health check before applying boost pressure. 1). Compression test across all cylinders. 2). Cylinder leak off test (testing ring seal and valve seal) 3). Cylinder hybrolic test will also test ring seal and in most older engine causes free off sticking piston rings. 4). Oil pressure test. 5). Crank case pressure test using an monometer. 6). Engine ems fault code readout and reset. I'd replace the crankshaft front main seal and rear main seal upon updating the 4efe standard clutch. I would also inspect the valve stems through the head inlet and exhaust ports for signs of wet oil, this tells you if the valve stem seals are leaking. like most of the engine seals they will harden and go brittle. on these the race spec rocker covers help reduce turbo crank case pressure build from blowing oil past external engine seals, (cam seals, rocker cover seals, dizzy seal, front main and rear main crank seals, sump seal) There are again afew options here to boost your 4efe. 1 of the lads recently has done a very very good turbo convection on a ep91 UK spec 4efe. Maybe he could add a list of what he used. A different and great aprouch to boosting a 4efe engine. Conventional way to convert the 4efe. Engine part's required for turbo conversation: 4efte exhaust manifold, oil filter relocation housing 4efte, sump later ep91 4efte the best option low corner surge + matching oil pick up pipe/strainer, turbo with all turbo lines (coolant and oil), 4efte ep91 or ep82 exhaust system and down pipe (decat pipe). 4efte thermostat housing, 4efte flywheel and 212mm clutch or 200mm uprated 4efe unit, 4efte power steering pump with bottom pump to block mounting bracket and bolts, both low pressure pipe from the power steering reservoir and high pressure pipe from the pump to the steering rack 4efte, 4efte rocker cover, heat range 6 spark plugs 4efte. 4efte gray injectors 295cc will see around 220hp, piggy back ems. Intercooler and piping (4efte top mounted intercooler requires the factory bonnet scoop). ive just been sent this from one of the lads on here.

Some new exhaust parts turned up today. New longer exhaust Flexi and new high flow catalytic converter both damaged after an exhaust ground strike. 4.5 inch exhaust bung to reduce the low noise from the map speed exhaust system.

the mighty mx5 is this the long nose crank engine. these take boost so well. mostly all of the best lads in the modifying world are mx5 owners, and on the forums. so so many great people.

hold on to your hats, its the exceptional circuit know as IMOLA.

you will have to get oversized forged pistons and rods and a full acl bottom end bearing kit with thrust washers, uprated valve springs in a reconditioned cylinder head. a full engine gasket kit as well as arp head bolts, a good head gasket, thurbo kit and turbo, with some mods to the original inlet manifold to house the 4efte inlet temp sensor, uprated 4efe paddle clutch, id also buy the c56 gearbox recommended in the previous post by dutchie so at a later date you can get an after market lsd unit as above 190hp lsd will be very handy, but not a necessity. if you do this I'd send the engine to a engine shop to be built, or get InTouch with tuning developments based in the uk and inquire about a forged engine complete. all they would need to do is fit a e11 corolla oil pump to the engine that houses the crank angle sensor. you might need other parts like the thermostat housing and power steering pump bottom bracket, oil filter housing off the 4efte, injectors, all depending what comes with the engine. there is a few options. I would highly recommend getting the engine built by a pro engine shop should you choose that directions and carry out a comprehensive engine run in process on low boost with many oil changes.

tech talk and can I just congratulate the greatest of all time gp racer and fellow brit Lewis "hammer time" Hamilton. another outstand performance and another +20second win in 2020.

yep you got it. or set the gun to 5deg and pully on tdc cyl one/0deg

the glanza ct9 unit is the harder hitting ct9b. this is a great combo. really impressive tune.

fantastic work. really is looking very nice. is the ct9 a ct9a or ct9b?. this is going to spool up so fast.