Sam44

What are you using for your water pump. Fantastic build this is the first build I've seen deel with the water pump problems affecting block pressures.

Nice pics, abit of track action good to see.

The gen1 4efe gi starlet almost identical as the gen1 in the ae101 4efe corrola here is a engine bay and dyno graph of a starlet gi 91hp. you can see the inlet manifold is identical to the 4efte unit. The exhaust manifold is a 4-2-1 design. The ep91 starlet is 4-1 design. The throttle body on the ae101 gen 1 is tiny to promot low rpm gas volocity with the turbo manifold being so large to promote topend Hp. I believe it is around 30 to 35mm. I'm not sure on the gi starlet but I'd guess at the same size the throttle position sensor is a switch type and not a potentiometer type like on

I've just seen this now. Sorry for the late reply with the racing season starting work is mega demanding. I messaged you. You can see the cross brace in the centre This next rod is rifle drilled and because of this employs oil control on the bearing surface also benafiting oil flow rates and thrust face friction/contact, looks closely at the rod to crank thrust face these notches provide this... Image oil being constantly wiped around the trust face areas also helps stability of the crank threw oil pressure reducing crank walk with high load clutch unit.

These little cars do look smart in red. looks to polish up well.

Really enjoying people's builds. Getting skills. I need to get mine painted. Full paint.

Yeh I'm surprised very surprised my self the efe inlet cam has been missed for the big turbo mods on the 4efte, and the 4efte cam on the n/a engine. You can clearly see the difference on the dyno graph torque curv. This curv on a n/a engine basically represents head flow rates and volumes as well as fueling against rpm issues. You can feel the engines lack of high rpm torque/speed. With torque drop off from 3krpm to 4.5k alarming with a bad economy related fueling issue or air delivery volumes and fuel delivery mismatch at low rpm in the standard map present also as this is you target p

Just a link on what I was trying to explaine eariler. You can see here "the swing" what I was trying to explaine is the more it swings between these values (movement) the better the tune. Using the slightly bigger injectors will on initial throttle drive the afr rich. This can be tuned using the injector delivery pressure to increase or decrease fuel volume injected. Using larger injectors and decreasing fuel delivery pressure at some point will meet the same levels near anuff as the standard setup, the difference will be on initial throttle on and short time fuel trim adjustment time. w

Yeh as said the more features it has the more it will upset you I've found with alarms .saying that. The auto lock above a set speed is a nice option.

Morning. yeh sorry about that my job is in engine development. I'm used to writing reports. I write a lot at my work station so I have to be fast. Just trying to help. Ive never done Instagram before I'll have alook.

Found some good injector info sites here. I think I might have been wrong about pink denso injector engine code it might be 4afe 1.6ltr. https://www.witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm they all operate around 43 to 45psi, 3bar so this gives you a base fuel pressure setting. The starlet ecu also runs the indirect injectors on a batch firing setup so by no means a complex system. Very close to a carb or single point system.

It's the response time not voltage reading its self. You will see the swing on throttle then it will bring it back. If you watch the standard setup first you will get a feel for it. Upto you at the end of the day but it works and has been used for along time. Quick question we are talking about a 4efe normally aspirated engine right. Not a turbo. The gray 295cc units are good for around 200hp. I'll find injector data now from dark green denso units 4efe to pink 7afe units are not in no means a big leap. But bigger anuff to hit a power/proformance air fuel ratio and take it aw

The adjustable reg will help you setup the injectors. You can do this by eye reading your plugs old school. Its like when we used to jet carbs same principle with bigger injectors. These engines run on the lean fuelling side. The pink 7afe injectors are only slightly bigger thy will allow the engine to run rich on initial throttle on then the ecu will try and pull back the fuelling. With the reg u can get it spot on. To finally tune this put a volt meter on your lamba sensor firstly on the standard system and watch the voltage you can see how fast the voltage swings then recovers this is the e

Let us know a price on all them parts if poss. Looking good. Its crank to rod ratio and piston crown weight that counts on rpm. The rod can be utilised at this point to work on a slipper piston design and all the benefits A really good piston design could bring to this engine especially. Reading threw the big Hp builds on here nearly all fail around 300hp, with 250hp seeming to be the point at which they can last. With cylinder temps being the main killer from what I can see. Im running a better water pump with a closed back impeller. The engine suffers with bad cavitat

So shorter stroke would suit more. You can go either way. Im reducing rpm limit to increase the engines service life. On the street car at present. Im just at the point of testing cam lift on piston clearance and power levels, To work out the rod length required. From what I read there's 3 different cam configuration on the factory e series engine 4efte,4efe,5ehfe. I have them all here. With me running a mid to large size turbo to amplify the higher rpm power drop off of the lowest factory 4efe cams (lowest lift) that really give great low rpm torque and head gas speeds also

I was reading polo 6n2 fit with slight hub bolt mods and removing top mount spacers or something 5e Colin on here did a how to.

Also check your fuses there's a efi fuse under the bonnet

Love it what size are the itb. The 4efte also has a higher lift inlet cam for better topend Hp it doesn't seem to be common knowledge.

Sounds like you have either a fuel pump issue or ground wires off. Check your earth banks both on the engine and chassis and to the battery. Then do a blink code read out see what fault codes you have.

Are they standard 4e stroke length/compresstion ratio. Im looking for some with a longer length to increase compression ratio so I can loose some crown weight and heat. With the cam setup and valve formation leading to a wedge shape combustion chamber I was going to design a slipper piston to improve gas movement/mixing. Staying standard stroke/rod or smaller length gives you room to reduce compression ratio and at the same time reshape the piston crown. cylinder mixing and scaverging on the 4e is poor leading to poor cylinder squish and stall gasses at low rpm. I've se

A lot of good options out the toads are also very good but complex to install yourself

Hi there. For instant proformance on the 4efe 1.3ltr I'd replace the exhaust system for a 2inch diameter straight threw system. Replace the inlet cam for the 4efte Unit. Use a 62 deg thermostat. Also use the Corolla inlet (tubular inlet). Use a good adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and 7afe injectors You should see around 95hp. Platinum plugs and a earthing kit also helps the low kv coil. Or you can use the turbo inlet manifold and the 4efe inlet cam with all the others mods suggested and see around the same power but no more room for improvement. The light weight f

Real nice work

Now we are talking. What's the estimated cost. Are you pushing rpm. Whats the desired compression ratio and finally are you designing a piston as well.