Sam44

Only way I can get a picture up to show you some good aero items. Let us know if you want me to remove!!. its no big thing.

I'll have indicators side skirts and rear under plate surround with lamp please. I'll take the black skirts please. I'm also after a Corolla tubular inlet manifold I've got 100 here waiting for 1

Now this engine is capable of greatness. great build this.

Great mod this. The throttle body is all adjustable on these with good low flow increases to be had.

Very true gee. I didn't even notice the engine angle. But yeh it's tilted. Nice spot.

Some good examples of rear facing vents that do not affect tyre contact and removing under bonnet heat and drag but keep bonnet downforce look at the vents in the sill panel bellow the windscreen Now look at the holes cut in this sill panel center under the windscreen to let out trapped air (drag reduction)

Blown difuser basic

Great idea this

Agreed loving this.

Great idea this. This also can improve aCeleration and throttle response if setup right. I removed the wax stat and adjusted the throttle stop screw so the idle was at 800rpm (this is with the idle screw closed) I then adjusted the idle screw to 1krpm. i run the tps so as to remove the idle state switch and bring in the wot switch sooner. But this is due to my injector size and fuel pressure setting. Saying this removing the idle state switch helps throttle response regardless of fuel setup.

Love the build. i recognise the black gt in the picture I think I met this lad at a jap car festival afew year back. I think we also got smoked by it on the a55 haha. Fast thing if it's the 1 I've seen.

Yeh sorry chase. it's all because of what I do. there's a lot of things I forget others will struggle with. im going to document the starlets development, comfortably predicting step by step the results that will be seen. it's just the level of the results which will determine the clear development path. Speed and fuel efficency. As soon as the good weather is here I will start to get dyno results up and plot this path with targets on power, efficiency and mph times. Developing every area of the vehicle keeping it as simple as possible with a cap on budget and topend speed, a

Now this is a quality rod.

Yeh it's important to place the oiler hole just off centre to allow best use of oil hydrolic action on this top part of the shell other wise it just forces the oil threw the hole and shell contact will happen make the drill hole as small as possible, boost pressure does this to shells

Yeh will do because of the coolant flow paths around 1and 2 and the pump on this end also this area was the lowest pressure point, around cylinders 3&4 were the highest and more stable threw the rpm if you look at the head gasket design and coolant flow control holes you will see why and the pattern to flow improvements in this area the block around 3&4 cylinders is a water trap area. 1 thing he didn't do and wanted to was measure block temp in this area he predicted an increase in temp but never got round to it. he repaired these cars also and has noted a lot of internal and external

Good lad, well worth it. A lot better for control and power output than a large manifold and single throttle. Send me some pics if poss and message me if you need any help or advice I've run afew cars with itb setup. I know room in the engine bay is limited you might need to upsweep the runners so as to not skimp on the inlet plenum chamber size this is critical for big Hp.

I'm going to have to get mine painted I think. Keep the progress coming looking real nice.

Look at the big end shells in this pic now you will tell and see the top power taking shell look at the centre wear.

This unit is off a Audi 4.2ltr with a big low gas flow speed high Hp volume manifold for great full rpm power. the large single tb and inlet design has the affect of narrowing the engine power band and a skilled driver with good skills and gearing insight to keep the engine in this band needed. Hard work and lap times will differ dramatically. Any body running this type of manifold cams like the 4efe and these type (twin plate) of throttle setups are required for road use to promote low rpm manifold/head gas speeds. This will also spool the turbo better sooner. These manifold

Looks a good design straight intake runners to plenum chamber, 45deg angled throttle mount gets better air flow to cylinder 4. What is your power aim I'd use this with a big turbo around 350hp capable and a low rpm peak flow cam setup. A twin plate throttle body would definitely be benafical on this also for low rpm gas speeds/torque.

Hello. Tidy work, what are your plans.

Yeh I'll dig them out, the lad that had the starlet I bought did the tests and I believe tuned starlets for like 15 year+ his work is comprehensive and impressive highlighting many areas of improvement on this vehicle. The book he has handed me is like a tuning guild to the starlet. The only things I'm waiting for off him is the dyno graphs he's got, which I need so bad. He's a busy guy. Like us all. A fast way to show you the heat/cylinder difference is to do a plug read you can clearly see cylinder temp difference is large with cylinder 1 running the hottest threw to 4 getting progress

If you know how to speak engine sometimes you can see it shouting problems at you. The 4efe is a very basic production line unit and some of these updated parts I see are poor at best, not removing all and in some cases adding problems. Take for instance forged rods that remove the standard piston oiler drilling and then do not incorporate any thrust face grinds. Gives me the chills just thinking of the oil control. In all honesty around 250hp at 6krpm I'd set its very reasonable limit unless you are blue printing the full engine to race spec, which is a lot of work. So we remove the lit

Oh sorry there I thought it was yours I've been digging threw loads of builds recently, the stock water pump is a really poor design. I've seen block pressure test were 4x pressure sensors sensors are drilled and fitted to the block 4x corners and in the 2x sides of the head cam belt end and thermostats end and the engine was put threw its paces the sensors were 30psi (2bar) sensors attached to led lights on the dash. The results were shocking with pressure dropping off after around 4krpm with the water pump end the worst. I run a closed back impeller pumper this helps but cylinder 1 still run

Welcome and good looking gt you got