Clinternational

New update update update update Bought High pressure cohline oil feed line with ss clamps ( oil filter between ) 4 way splitter. ( oil feed ) ( oil pressure sensor stock ) ( oil pressure sensor aftermarket pressure gauge ) It barely fit. some ptfe tape used. Had some time left, so polished the compressor housing inside Water pressure gauge for water injection so i will know when pump quits. Bought an Turbonetics wastegate: And checked the whole unit for leaks. Coated the orange gasket with teflon spray for 100% leakfree. Applyd some ss nuts, washers and bolts. Here you can see the spring, It's an 9 PSI one. Changed the springrate with an torch. Adding a vacuum hose tail It opens, Looks like a head exhaust valve but slightly diffrent. Spring shim was little busted. smashed it flat again. Busted the thread ( american thread ) Now it's metric M10 thread. New ss bolt and nut This is an really old turbonetic wastegate, But works 100% Opens instead of 9psi = 0.6 bar now 5 psi 0.35 bar. Reheating the spring with an clamp can adjust the function off the spring. There is a tial wastegate with the samen design. Bought an HKS SSQV GEN II And disambled the whole thing, then rebuilding it. Sanding, polishing painting spraying, oiling greasing etc. Gasket kit Wastegate flanges

Pictures!!!!!! Boost gauge + Oil pressure gauge + AFR + AFR AEM UEGO wideband Digital Oil temp and water temp Did get another turbo T3 Turbine / T4 Super compressor. Custom 2mm restrictor Stainless steel Rivet used. 4way splitter. 1/8 BSPT To 1/8 NPT brass piece ( toyota engine has BSPT 1/8 so it seems.) New NOS nozzle + 0.36 JET. ( 75 HP shot )

Nice work mate. Looks very good...... Superb

Looks alot better with those new rims. and lowered Nice one!.

Aren't you affread that the offset ( alignment ) is completly wrong? Or did you do it on a straight bench ?

That car look really excellent and outstanding,. Don't drive the car hihi. Somebody just hide the car somewere. and u found it Are those sparco wheels ?

Hi there, Well the rpm activator switch wasn't such a good idea afteral. Kinda enoying Instead of activating at the 4000 RPM, it will now be activated through an microswitch at wide open throttle. It needed the long thread as cil number 1 intake manifold got a m6 thread. You can see i welded an ball SS on the throttle thingy In the meanwile the VSV valve broke down. the orifice has disapeared. But did get a otherone there. Also some vids showing that the car is very economic. The wideband gauge shows 18 or - - - This is just an idle test, my car runs about 1500 RPM idle. As this is the best steady idle there is because of my TRD camshaft >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIunDla_-qg As you can see if i shift the car a gear up, the wideband goes to 18 or - - - you can hear the rpm rising as it shows 18 on the wideband Normally the car consums very much fuel at shifting in the city. now it does the opposite >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeQqK2LqTFY

Planning to go for a swim ?

U got some nice work done! also the rims looks very cool. Didn't know taggy had a video for the rear brake unit. There are lot of options getting those ep82 disc's onto the rear axle to an ep70 I also experienced longer handbrake cable,s as the distance from the ep82 axle is further away. The fueltank option is very very nice, Looks really clean. I've used an emptycan from plastic as removing the mounting ring was too much work for me. Frontsway bar from an EP70 Type S will fit. An ep82 won't fit nice or not good enough. Rear whiteline swaybar on the ep70 from an ep82 will fit. Check my thread for ideas. Also the rust spot at the door is normal haha....

Thank you for the reply's Going little further. 60mm airfilter from an motorcycle. T piece out of sewer pipe ( shitpipe ) Fitting the throttle unit and filter to the T piece. ( temporary taped ) bolts thru the throttle body en taped the thread to the rounding on the tube. Stuff mounted into the car. RPM Window switch activates the VSV ( little red thingy that holds the connection of 2 vacuum lines 6mm ) at 4000 RPM, the extra throttle body goes open. And the extra amount of fuel thru a other potional meter will be activated. Car use only very much fuel at high rpm. and below it's very economic... The engine got a SuperB Low down torque ( duo to long lenght intake ) en short lenght for the power and torque in high RPM. It works like an T-vis system but a little bit better. I've found out that the long intake makes goood low down torque. And a short length good top end torque. after trying a lot of diffrent styles and lenghts in the past. A short length filter will be useless in the low down rpm range. ( have to wait until it comes up at the 4000 RPM ) The TRD camshaft does the job now at low, mid and high rpm range . V-tech cars has the same comparrison. waiting for the rpm range where the car gives the kick in the back.

Okay, U got point.

But but but but..... onder the rear seat, There are 6 screws bolt them out., where you can make a inline pump and go for 8mm or even 10mm fuel line. The system u have is 6mm fuel pipe.. goes all the way into the tank My fuel tank is still in the same position. Never had to take it off or weld to it. Look at my posts.. I run an supra jap spec twin turbo fuel pump. On a 10mm Fuel line. From tank to engine. I've pushed a square type bottle cutted into half. And pushed into the tank. So no problems during cornering. As the filter from the fuel pump is in the half bottle.

Copy may Still working on my custom T-Vis Engine or ( 2 way engine ) And getting parts for my T3 Turbo project. Collecting parts.

Wheel arch on the rear that has enough rust needs to be replaced. I'ts common It's importend to flush/wash the sand and dirt outah there taggy did you complete the to do list allready

Nice little Rocket u got there. But why not make a inline fuel pump ?

Thanks for the reply Got the heating system done for the NOS Bottle.... And a water tank that needs to be adjusted and some welding. Tank is a replacement for the plastic 5liter can im currently using. Kinda weird tank out of a hospital with an heating element in it said 9250 Watts Received from a neighbour. Gotto make it smaller to fit onder the hood. This is a 7 liter housing. Testing the heating element that i've made. Not to confuse with the other one out of the water tank. Using 2 x tee pieces 2 hoses goes thru the firewall So now the nos bottle can be installed into the car. And get proply heated so i've got more pressure in the bottle. Next im busy maken an 2 way 2E-E engine. Same as Toyota T-vis. But custom style butterfly valve. For high rpm.

Nice work Did you also received the grease you need for the antilift from shaun ?

Nice cage u got there, Cusco uses a though material molybdeen Did you used reinforced plates to bolt the cage on mate? Or mounted it onto the 1mm steel plate from the car ?

Aluminium is nicer for show use and looks. As plastic is ugly as it looks oem/cheap, Update!! Bought some 5 meters of copper pipe. Winding it arround a bigger tube. Must replace the 5 liter jerrycan for an aluminium one. mayby 5 or more litlres Placing the winded copper in front of the grill for good cooling. New place for the nozzle Overal view Today it was 19 degree celcius outside. My temp gauge in the intake manifold shows 17 degree celcius... Also is my low end torque improved. And economics too

What parts do you have Nice clean ep70

Stunning build. I love the exhaust manifold. It looks really cool! Love it! Planning to weld just a look a like of it. For my T3 setup.

Fantastic. Really going for it Good advice on the cast welding... Is the car still driveable with all that power ?

Stunning!!!! Car will be rock solid with that cage... Nice parts on the sink!

Love those ITB

TRUE!!! I've also tried and tested many variant short,long, open filter, closed filter, etc.