Jozinobi

A small progress update is an update nonetheless bro Glad its running better for you now, I'd still let someone who knows their ebcs to set the gain etc better for you to get the best out of it. Keep on rolling dude. Joz

Cheers Mr D Will get some pics up when things start to shape up. Joz

Forgot to mention that the WMS brakes are immense! Brakes save Bacon people. FACT! Can't recommend them highly enough. Joz

All the best with it mate Joz

@ Sparky - It is a shame bro but needs must, I know you will back with something mintier thats for sure. @ Nazzuro - Chris estimated her circa 220bhp the way she is running at the minute, still some more possible tweaks and an increase to 1.2bar on a dry evening. Not even been close to a dyno yet but I will get a power run when conditions allow. @ Amjad - Your welcome as always mate. If you can pick those parts up mint 2nd hand when funds/time allow you will be flying. I got everything from eBay and the forums. For the ebc just make sure it comes with all wiring, and that the control unit and dual solenoid are in good nick. I paid £180 for my Blitz. Go for the spec R for future potential (dual solenoid = more boost) My emu unit was £200 around 3 years ago, boxed and all. Full plug n play '82 emu field harness was £90 off the forum. Some insane deals if you keep your eyes out. @ Ryan - Cheers mate! Its always that one painful time of year but good luck mate, can only do your best to prepare her. I passed with a decat screamer if thats any consolation. Soon as I saw the all green from the emissions test I was Its onwards and upwards people, stay safe as the road conditions are getting shit again! Joz

Hey bro Need to treat it nastier to be honest mate (see more full boost) Not the best time of year for test runs, it is a different drive from the CT9 but a worthy one imho. It has the punch that you always wished the CT9 could produce, the response is defo lacking but its surely not the worst. I think when driven properly its an awesome setup and the screamer isn't overly loud (says the guy in the cockpit )! Good to see you back Sparks but sad to hear the GT is being broke. Joz

Hey Amjad Yep you need both emanage (ultimate preferably) and a decent boost controller (Blitz Dual Spec R is ideal) to have multiple boost settings. I wouldnt really call them individual maps, Chris maps the car to ensure there is sufficient fuelling for each level of boost @wot and of course his own tweaks. Then on the ebc you set the gain on each individual setting for the boost pressure and delivery. Off boost would ensure a slightly richer mixture for everyday driving. 0.5 - 0.6 on TD04 I find is comparable to a ct9 at high boost mate. Just slightly lazier to take off (need a heavier foot) but the boost is harder, just make sure you need it. Full boost just under 4k, starts from 0 psi just after 3k with a fully planted foot. Minding that low boost is nowhere near the TD turbo's efficiency range it still works. In the heavy rain (like today) it is best to just stay off boost, was on the dual carriage way and you can tootle along at 70 without even spooling, something you cannot do with the ct9. Both setups have their + and - People always say about spinning the wheels in 2nd and all that, but if you have a refined setup (lsd, coilys, good tires etc) she will plant all that power to the road mate, ct9 or TD04 I'd 100% recommend EMU over a plug n play anyday as you can adjust everything properly without relying on pot luck. Decent ebc is also the ticket. Low boost for daily and flick of a button, its fast and furious time Joz

2 months w/o an update? That is All! Just kidding lol. She now has 3 boost settings (0.5, 0.8 and 1bar) but that will change in the next map session to see her hit 1.2 bar on standard internals. The .7 tial spring will be going back in to have (0.7, 1bar and 1.2 bar settings) and a more aggressive map when the roads are dry (could take some fecking time and a lot of luck!) The TD04 nappies can come off then! Please as punch she passed MOT today with no advisories. I will also be working more closely on the oil catch can situation and putting something more funky together and a few other small touches. My blitz bov is leaking so as usual I have sourced a brand new one eBay (Blitz DD) for a cuthroat price. Most stuff will be fitted on my next Costa and CCM visit. Lets hope the next update won't take as long Joz

Happy Birthday broski!! Have a good one! Joz

Tial EWG Spring Pressures

Some great replies so far. Best advice so far is to max out your ct9 with supporting mods as its so inexpensive to do so and go from there. Figures don't really mean anything besides the overall delivery and feel/application to the driver There will always be someone faster than you and there is always room for improvement. I've only had the td04 running for over a week but as a general drive I find it pretty sweet and this -> on my face. Joz

This is becoming an interesting thread however it has gone towards the Td04 side so title amended to suit if OP doesn't mind. I decided to skip the hybrid route as the majority always seem to require early rebuilds, I wanted a new setup with more potential, not an interim. Having only just upgraded from the versatile ct9b to the Td04l I will say low end boost response is poor (it is a larger turbo) but I have found the car is much better to drive off boost, there is more torque and the engine feels more even, even though deep down you know its a 1.3. In layman's terms it gives the engine more overall 'oomph' off boost, not to be confused with flat out acceleration. This is due to the so called 'lag' or slower spool time but it really makes driving off boost more refined, that is my opinion as I use both a feathered foot and heavy foot. Having boost settings for 0.6, 0.8 and 1 bar also makes it versatile, ok on the scooby its optimum efficiency range is 1.2-1.4. (1.6 max) but on the EP setting it low is great for daily driving. Boost can be set to come in slightly early with a good ebc with gain settings and a great map/supporting setup is essential (am on emanage ultimate) Next map session will see her @1.2bar on standard internals. I have found when out on the open road (not b roads/country roads) the Td04 is pretty sweet as you will be in the 3.5k range anyway and when the ct9 runs out of puff in similar situations the Td04 is continually pushing. Ct9 is amazing for acceleration and quick response once mapped to 1bar+ properly and will be more than enough for some but for more kick and potential/better off boost torque at expense of low spool response time the td04 is a worthy and tried and tested eventual upgrade once you hunger for more boost and harder pull Joz

Great result Liam You must be well chuffed with her now. I get mine back tomorrow Joz

R.I.P Dave. This is a very sudden and unfortunate turn of events. You will be very sorely missed and always remembered by us all for helping revolutionise the EP scene with your great service, expertise and projects breaking various records. Thank you for all the advice and of course service for parts, it was a pleasure to have received some of your time. This is a true reminder to us all that life IS so fragile. You don't know what you have until its gone. God bless the Burwash family and their close friends and relatives at this testing time. Most Sincere Condolences Joz

The turbo kit has long gone mate Joz

Click on the 'Options' tab to the top far right of your thread title. You can't miss it. Change the display mode to 'Standard' instead of the current one to revert back to normal. Joz

Check out this thread Phil Joz

Simply said, both fabricators produce very quality manifolds and both rightfully stand by their work. This means you have a leg to stand on, if by chance a weld decides to blow or the mani cracks. Both also have good communication. Sasha @wepr always answers pms and is very helpful. The same can be said for Ricky@racetech and being uk based you can pick up the phone and talk to him directly. This is based on my experience with both traders. If you have any preferences/requirements just ask, more advanced fabrication requirements will incur extra cost however such as advanced mani designs. Both also offer excellent group buys and Sasha really rolls the boat out when he does seasonal specials on tgtt and the prices would astound you. Both can also possibly have a little waiting time if buying directly from them i.e not 2nd hand. WEPR is based in Sri Lanka but will send out your kit asap if it is in stock. Even though sent from an international location, the delivery time is very good. They have been in the game a good while and always strive for customer satisfaction so no worries there. Racetech although uk based always seem to have a busy workload so it can take a bit more time to receive your order if it is not directly in stock as most items are made to order which is understandable. They can be quite expensive if you require a different design to what they normally offer. Both traders are very active so this is good sign that the scene is not stagnant and you are always going to get fresh new products, revisions and designs. I have recently purchased and had fitted a barely used 2nd hand Race-tech TD04 kit and am very happy with it so far. There was a small bead of weld not as thick as the others on the downpipe and racetech honoured and fixed it in a timely fashion. I will be purchasing a new exhaust system once they are open again (closed til Oct 5th) Am also running a WEPR fmic now converted for TD04 and it is very high quality. Bought it in the last Christmas special along with a CT9 mild steel mani (I never used and sold to fund something else) With this setup I get the best of both worlds. I will always buy the best I can afford for the EP be it new or used. I would highly recommend both brands but be sure of exactly what you want to best suit your budget and your application and if not sure just simply contact them directly. The WEPR ct9 mild steel mani would be more value for money (under £200) in my opinion but the racetech ct9 mani (£320) is not commonly used (from what I've seen) but it looks a piece of art. Always use genuine gaskets when possible and always get a decent state of tune/engine management to prevent failures of any kind be it manifolds or engines. The most logical approach (unless you defy logic ) would be to port the standard mani to run the CT9@1 - 1.1 bar (mapped with a decent setup) and put the money towards your next turbo upgrade. Extra info for future use: WEPR downpipes are usually made to suit their own exhaust systems so ask to be sure as this has been a small headache in the past for some. Race-tech td04 downpipes are 2.5" minimum so they will definitely mismatch whatever exhaust system you have unless you are running a custom 2.5" or a Fujitsubo Powergetter or similar. This is if you want to run the exact diameter exhaust all the way through or start from at least 2.5" so you don't strangle the power. Even the Blitz Nurspec R and Japspeed systems start smaller at the downpipe (60mm/2.36") You have seen some of the work in the flesh so you may have probably made your decision already. Hope this helps. Joz

It 100% comes with no nipples Matt. Was recently running one myself. Joz

Great stuff man, congrats! Gives me an excuse to pop down someday! Joz

I can confirm our engines are non-interference because I have been through the experience of my cambelt 'properly' snapping in two on a regular 70mph cruise running in a new FHE hybrid engine and no damage was caused to my internals (thankfully). It was caused by the quality of the belt itself and not my mechanic/installers fault. This was a new item. I'm no expert but after three engine builds my opinion is our cars do not require regular belt or 'chain' maintenance that would affect timing if left unmaintained/unchanged for a long period. Whereas interference engines do, such as those needing chain belts or others where timing accuracy is absolutely vital. It is gradual/outright incorrect timing that would cause the valves and pistons to collide at their lowest point thus causing the 'interference'. Damage includes bent valves from the piston colliding with them, pieces of shattered valve or piston causing damage within the cylinders possibly damaging the rods. As you can tell, our cambelt service periods are far and few, which comes to the conclusion that Toyota intended our 'E' engines to be non-interference considering the long cambelt service periods as indicative proof. My advice, always use original toyota parts when it comes to service items especially cambelt kits, not usa eBay spurious from my experience. Only upgrade I'd recommend/mention is the Power Enterprise cambelt as it is intended to be stronger than oem (is expensive). As long as you use decent parts and have them installed and timed properly there is far less chance of things going wrong. Maintenance is also the key. Keep your eyes on any leaks and fluid levels and all will be dandy. Hope this helps. Joz

Check our UKSC Wiki for an in-depth buyers guide mate. Joz

Basically put some effort in and kickstart a new regime/way of life mate, not just for the holiday. Will do wonders for everything. Crash diet and other so called easy ways out (pills etc) will just make you eventually ill. If you want to whip off your t-shirt in Ibiza be prepared to sweat for it and rekindle your body's metabolism ;) The gut is usually the last part that starts to disappear, speaking from experience You also don't want a skinny washboard stomach, you want some visible abs. For your height your weight actually sounds fine, but it is totally realistic for you to trim up/tone up a little before your hols. You are hardly in danger of carrying excess body fat but that extra 14lbs will make all the difference I found in how trim you look and how clothes fit. Not the same for everyone of course depending on weight and height. Joz

Maybe not as big ;) Its the eyebrows that do it

They are awesome Hou I'd buy quite a few things especially the plushes. If they can design a uksc star to have in the middle of the med-large plushes I'd be in heaven ;) Joz