ecksjay

whoops. also... chav alert.

220bhp on stock internals would be pushing it, especially if you're not running full standalone. there are a few people running 220bhp on stock internals and sometimes more, but its all in the tune, these are almost all running power fc's etc which have been optimally tuned for the application. A hybrid will struggle to get that much power, a td04 will do easily but as above, management will be your main issue.

replied.

nicer looking? hahahaha how often do you go about crawling under the rear axle of someone's car? also, they're usually used on lowered cars, thus, they're too low to see em unless you're literally crawling around on your back anyway. I'd much rather spend the money on monstrous turbo kits personally, once you experience boooooost, you try and sustain the addiction indefinately, this usually comes at a sacrifice to everything else hahahaha

oh ofcourse its different in certain situations, but how different can they be, if you've got D2's which are as low as they can go, then if that dont shove it out of alignment then i dont know what will. At less than 4mm, its a negligible difference which shouldnt have any affect on the handling/road holding on the car. If an individual's was to be out by more than that then obviously there are other factors which affect the alignment. The OEM one is a dirty great chunk of metal, the 'state' of it shouldn't really affect it in anyway, it does one job and unless its bent its never gonna break/s

thats all good and well, although, after careful measurement of a friends, after being lowered about 70mm (D2's) or more, the axle was AT MOST around 4mm out, which to be honest, isn't really worth bothering/caring about. its not enough to make a difference to really in my opinion not worth the money (even for the cheapest one). I've the standard toyota three point rear strut brace and tanabe shocks etc, rear doesn't step out or nowt, it'd be nice if it did though, ep91's are far too willing to understeer.

you've never experienced sarcastic bidding then? well alright then, let me see what i can find..... £14 and half a packet of trebor extra strong mints - never ragged or raced. send me a pm mate and we'll chat, or better still, you got msn?

hammerite. its the only way forward. or, use an idea me and rick have come up with. shit in a bucket, mix it with loads of laquer, and paint. thats probably the most slag you're ever gonna get. shit paint. awesome. you'll only make it more slag by painting it on with rocks or something.

£12. posted. this 'hybrid' is that of a ct9a yes? thats my question, whether or not the exhaust side from a ct9b would actually bolt up to it...

no, they wont just bolt in.

ah nice. yeah mate i presume its the compressor side from an ep82 turbo and not an ep91? I'm guessing they'll still unbolt/bolt together in the same way.... Hmmm think my seals are good but we'll see how it does at 1bar it does certainly look a little different to standard though..

if you wanna shift it on then i'd be willing to try it, my ecu is tuned for a larger k1 turbo so a lesser ct9 hybrid might work well with it

errr you could try to get it welded up, may just rust through again though mate, rust in exhausts is usually terminal (unless its just surface corrosion).

for a members what? sausage fest??

i concur.

aahahaha, sounds about right ;)

alot of people using te relocation kits/oil coolers have problems in starlets with the oil being TOO cool and a lack of pressure (search tgtt, it was a while back i read it but happened to a few people), although i must admit i've been tempted too, just for ease of changing it!

i dont see the fascination with mirrors, its not something i ever notice on a car. mine work, they retract fine etc, not something i'd ever consider changing, they do the job and blend in well with the car, but it is slightly different on black 'uns.

you're boned.

hm well i think everyone's reading it a different way, because im seeing it as you're changing the compressor side, but usually, to go alone with a new compressor wheel/shaft/blades etc you need to cut/weld in a new inlet port which is obviously wider and beefier to go along with it, otherwise, its still only able to suck through the stock inlet side which would always be the limiting factor (well, aswell as so many other variables, but its a factor).

yeah they handle the bumps, just dont try turning, it feels like its falling over ;)

oh yeah for sure, if you had deep pockets.... or you could just buy an evo ;d

bring me back a ladyboy hooker.

pretty sure its the same turbo guys, even if the part number is different, but obviously its not a straight swap as shaun found out, it needs modification. dont see why it couldnt be the same though. its all about saving money. if they can use the same turbo with slight modifications then why not, it does the same job.

without aircon, you can pretty much do it by hand, reach in through the front and unscrew it. with aircon, its an absolute nightmare. my mate who's very clued up and had the right tools had a job with it, took over 2 hours just to get the filter off, even with that triangle claw thing, the strap things are useless due to the angle/pipework. i imagine its easier if you're using a genuine toyota filter as it has the actual...err....knobbly bits for the tool to grip, but the one on mine (and the one we were replacing it with) were both random generic filters, so didnt have the bits on them for th