WallaceGlanza

As standard no and they're not required for an mot either as the indicators protrude out to avoid the need for side repeaters.

I wouldn't go for a 15 - 20 year old turbo engine with that mileage, a modern diesel yes but engines like ours won't last forever.

A black 96 Glanza with white grids in Kirriemuir, is this anyone on here? I've seen it a few times now and had to double take today as it's where my car gets mot'd!

Exhaust manifold gets upto 900 degrees though. I've used a few "high temp" paints and none last forever, as above if you want a good coating ceramic will be the best.

Nope, clear indicators (with black casing) and different rear lights too. boom.

Don't jinx it before the first one is even built! Cheers guys, it won't be quick but hopefully it will be back better than before.

Don't normally like the varis rears but it does suit yours now, loving the tailgate too.... leave the duck bill off though!

I'd wreck her.

Nah the very end where it attaches to the wastegate flap. Its probably been knocked up by a mad wee jap.

Thanks! See below... Yeah I don't know the mileage either but I know it's well over 100k miles, tbh I was expecting it to go at some point but hoped it would last a bit longer! Your last comment brought a smile to my face and nod of agreement, cheers man. I've got two dead engines lying about now so once I've got my new garage (house) sorted at least one will be getting rebuilt and whilst that is happening I may well strip down the whole car and tidy the whole thing up.... and maybe see if an MSA approved rollcage can find its way into the car so I can have some real fun.

Never seen one like that, but doesn't look oem to me, not with the holes drilled like that and the arm bent, I think toyota would do it a bit neater!

Ha cheers shorty, although I think you're biased since I have your old bonnet and engine!... speaking of which, sorry but I've just killed your engine. I was intending on taking the car for a nice blast up the highlands but on the way something didn't feel quite right so turned back, I then noticed the oil catch can was overflowing and the engine breathing heavily. A compression test tonight returned this: Cyl 1 - 168psi, Cyl 2 - 175psi, Cyl 3 - 171psi Cyl 4 - 82psi. Engine no. 2, done.

Probably already seen it but... http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/69353-anyone-up-for-a-dundee-meet/?p=884724

The pressure rating of the radiator cap doesn't relate to the boost... however my 1.1 bar radiator cap only started leaking when I started boosting over 1.2 bar

Me? Java? Nope.... Ah well must be another silver one I've not seen before!

I wouldn't try setting up the safc yourself, below fuel cut standard fuelling is ok. The safc will only be needed above 0.8bar so I'd suggest adjusting the actuator to 0.8bar max for now. by the way you weren't going through Kirrie tonight were you?

Kinda self explanatory - with the adjustable you can stiffen or soften the reaction of the arb, if you're tracking the car a lot and think you might adjust it then go that way, for most the fixed will be fine.

With the wheel spinning antics at knockhill I decided it was definitely time to start thinking about an LSD, just as I started considering that I couldn't spare the cash for a nice new Quaife taggy advertised his one which was stuck in his gearbox. I got it for a bargain price (thanks again) and successfully removed it for the box without damage.... So it was out with the old in the with the new.... Boring open diff: Nice and tight quaife: The other issue of the coolant leak was also adressed with a TRD radiator cap: (I was too lazy to clean up the spilt coolant though!) With t

Probably stem seals yeah, also check if it gives off a little puff of smoke when first started and revved after sitting for a while. Mine does both and has done for ages!

Carbon ones can be bought easily and then there's the replicas from idress.... it would take a fair few hours to repair yours!

I was jealous of how clean this was in the metal at the aberdeen meet a while back, brilliant example.

x 2 The bearings are different but I had no problem with the standard one.

A little fiddly but pretty straight forward, a nice slim pair of circlip pliers will help.

I've got a dodgy intercooler pipe and playing with that at the mo, so most likely won't make it either.

The blitz is just a rebranded ORC 309, I run the blitz and replaced the friction plate with an ORC one so definitely the same clutch!