lukEp

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/182327357832?_mwBanner=1 Sure I used a M10 but here is an M9 you can just buy a kit with all sizes. Just search "spline bit set"

Colin has

Yeah 7hour round trip.

I'm having to strip the inside of my starlet soon to change the loom so thought I'd replace it with darker plastics while I'm at it. Any about in good condition close to Manchester.

It's an m10 or m12 bit. Same as stock headbolts.

They have been proven reliable @ 180bhp that's 2.5x stock power then on the other hand 4e and 4efte engines have blown up/let go at less power. Try it or don't...... there's only one way to find out.

I managed to do it by only replacing the pump and low pressure to tank hose. I did replace the high pressure side one on my first conversion but it's really not needed.

Just turbo the 4efe. It's a very capable engine and use a piggyback.

Set of 5 OEM Glanza wheels, all centres present could do with a paint, all 5 tyres have plenty of legal tread. £120 Collected from Manchester.

You'll have a knock control and separate ignitor/coil pack with FTE ECU.

As title. I want a starlet 6 bolt LSD NA Diff.

Negative!!! Its called constuctive criticism. I said "could have an issue" I didn't say that turbo is fucked and I put a smiley face. I also told you your ct12 is a hybrid, if you list it as a hybrid you've more chance of selling it. If you received a turbo that said fully working and came with oil all over the exhaust side you'd be fucking pissed off!

That CT12 is a hybrid and the CT9 could have oil seal issues as the exhaust side is wet with what looks like oil.

Yes. They're the same.

[quote name="lukEp" post="1207701" timestamp="1488652699" Just realised starlet have a plug not a small post. So one of the wires in the plug will be the battery bulb wire. And you won't get voltage over a fuse, both legs of a fuse are connected together so technically your just checking a short. You need to put one multimeter lead to earth and check both side of the fuse with the other lead. When checked and both side of the fuse you get the same reading on the multimeter you know that the fuse is ok if one side is showing a reading and the other shows nothing it is blown.

If the car starts then the alternator has a good earth as the starter and alternator share the same earth and live. Have you checked the fuses in the car?

I said 60/80/100amp as in it could be one of three sizes. Yours is 80amp so it's the 80amp one that will be the main live to the alt. If the battery light is going out it would suggest that the alt is charging. The way it works is fused live from fusebox to bulb on dash then from the other side of the Bulb to alt small post which is earth. The alt small post is only earth when not charging. When the alt starts to charge the small post goes live which turns the light out. Just realised starlet have a plug not a small post. So one of the wires in the plug will be the battery bulb wire. And you won't get voltage over a fuse, both legs of a fuse are connected together so technically your just checking a short. You need to put one multimeter lead to earth and check both side of the fuse with the other lead. When checked and both side of the fuse you get the same reading on the multimeter you know that the fuse is ok if one side is showing a reading and the other shows nothing it is blown.

I've just watched your video. You won't get any voltage out of an alternator that way. It needs a 12v power supply to energise the rotor (create magnetic feild) there will be a main live from the alt to the fuse box, where it goes into the fuse box it'll have a main fuse @ 60/80/100amp have you checked them plus the small energise wire will be fused. You need to have input to have an output.

Pm me your postcode mate.

Yep

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/user/8938-chesh/

Check the rest of your pistons. DET has most likely caused that, it could have been before you got the engine though and it was just fractured before. When you ran bigger boost its failed completely. If it's gone on one check the rest for fractures and it'll be roughly the same place on each piston.

I've got an HKS actuator and it only came with the HOLE type end and I need a PIN type.

You'll just dramatically shorten the shocker life if you drop it anymore than 35-40mm which is why aftermarket springs makers sell them in that option. If you want lows you'll have to go custom Or coilovers.

Or not enough boost for the dv spring.