TrisK

Not at all mate. 1.3 bar would be fine

if somebody drops out sasha let me know, could be tempted to pick up the slack

http://www.buyadecal.com/product_info.php?cPath=3_22&products_id=89&osCsid=2122d429b32e8951c501cc868d825781

Battery relocation to the boot is approcimately £100 for the cable and connectors required. not to mention youll probably need a new sealed battery as its not advised to run a vented one inside the cabin, so thats probably another £80 or so. Rear mounted battery done properly also wil require additional earths in the bay. So thats probably a cost of £40-50 for the cabling to remake the earths. So were already up to £250ish in materials. I would imagine its pretty labour intensive removing and refitting the loom a couple of times is an hour or two, and then the actual work of shortening it

I just used vinyl. I had to double up on the backing so that it didnt bleed through

I just refurbed a standard one. So it would have to be a part exchange basis. And so many are broken (possibly beyond repair) I don't know how long that would last

I think your thinking of ignition timing mate Colin is talking actual timing as the the cambelt

So, some people know that the serious work has started. The ramp got put into the workshop, so combine that with heading to JAE, and flint nagging me i finally got round to starting the GT project Some of you might have seen my rear camber thread, so the first thing we did we did was the work to rear axle, more detail can be found in the Chasis section, but it involved machining some stub axles, and chopping up an axle So first up we got the car up on the ramp and started stripping it down then ripped the bay apart and the interior found some roughness along the way. things from b

Is that 50 psi on all cylinders or just on one?

Cruise style bonnet for an Ep82. Been wanting one for years!

If you wanted 300hp a good specced billet wheel td04 should do it

are you sure that it really is a JAM ecu? can you post a picture of it

Sounds like an issue with your alarm/immobiliser

Gotta fill the time inbetween cleaning Alfa's and changing nappies somehow Phil!

only 3 years mate. not too long ;) ill never forget the sad look on your face at RaceTech lat year when you realised that you werent taking it home that day! I also kept the videos of it on the Dyno a secret, so you owe me big time ;) The spin was very uneventful, no wheel spin, no understeer, just puffs of black/flames out the screamer and running out of gears!

Dunno how I've missed this build before. What a stunner!

if its rings youll be down on compression

No. 20mm wider track with my method. Do you know what rating bolts Mikey used? Hoping he might pipe up with some details

That's not true of the UK system. You can change anything you like as long as it's completely a high standard and is safe. You can change any mounting points, suspension characteristics, body shape anything. As long as the quality of the work is good

That's the way I was originally going to do it. Cut down the middle and bolt it back on But when some stubs for quite cheap came up we revised the method. Also on inspection it looks like the splines are welded from the back. So by only using one I would be slightly concerned about the strength of it

They are made by Eibach who know what they are doing generally And they are TUV approved. So I think the risk is mjnimal

Tbf, he normallly is quite good. if you send him detailed photos he will normally just send a replacement part, in my experience anyways

I have an ep3 as a daily, and have done quite a bit of track time in it, i would say it certianly gives you a lot more confidence than the starlet chasis, but the feedback from a starlet means that they arent impossible to drive fast, you just to have be prepared from some understeer. A civic is definately easier to drive fast, but atleast on the circuits ive driven (les mans, silverstone, fontennay, maison blanche) that the starlet would be far behind, i also think the additional legs on the srraights could potential make it a faster car

Did yours require two axles too Amjad? or was it all done with one? The blue shim is two plates, one adjusts camber and one adjusts toe. you spin the discs to be aligned to the spec you want and then install it like a spacer between the axle and the stub axle

The blue shims add the camber and toe colin