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Everything posted by AdamB
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Why run loads of boost? A higher compression engine gives more power, as long as it is tuned well theres no problem. If your trying to look for a safety margin you would be best going forged.
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Personally if you was looking to replace the springs and rev no more than 8000, I would buy a set of standard OEM springs. The plug and play ecu's raise the rev limit to around 8000 I think so should be fine. I'm looking to get a spring tester fairly soon'ish so I could well be doing a little experiment between stock and aftermarket types.
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Would be good if they did make an appearence on here mate. Plenty of people would be after one if they can make it easy for us to get our hands on one. They could probably make a lot of business if they are able to source the 3 door manuals. I want an 85 though which are now becoming rare as rocking horse shit to find
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For sale: Polished rocker cover Item Condition: Very good Price and price conditions: £65 Extra Info: Polished rocker/valve cover in very good condition, no marks/scratches/nicks, has been polished to a very high standard. This is a 4EFTE cover with the 2 breather ports. Pictures: Contact Details: PM on here Location: Oxford Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Can be collected, delivery including in price For sale: Smoothed and polished standard fuel rail Item Condition: Ok, needs a touch up Price and price conditions: £25 Extra Info: I found this in the back of my car under th
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Yeah when I emailed about one before they wanted to get rid as soon as possible, and even offered me discount price. I was a bit concerned about them trying to offload me something with discount straight away. What was the company name you brought through?
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Loss through drivetrain depends on the driven wheels, a 4wd car will lose more than say a FWD car. Also depends on the placement of the engine, if you have a transaxle you'll lose less than if say you had to transfer the power from the front to the rear. Normally for a FWD transaxle will be around 10-15% loss. Your clutch assembly does affect it. Like I said, Dyno's measure the WHP and the fly HP is then calculated.
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Flywheel mate, marketing stunt to make people buy it
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I'm sure his is still running! Thread here: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?90151-Detonator-V-Boosted-4EFE
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Zisco ones are £240, well worth it. Only thing that puts me off them is they have no specs for them
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Nice one mate, I posted a link up to this very car not so long ago Please do write a step by step guide mate, as I would love to possibly get one myself at a later date.
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Would prefer to see WHP tbh, because some people lose a lot through the drivetrain, others don't, its a good way to see whos done what to ensure they get maximum power at the wheels. Also added to the fact that dyno's read WHP then calculate the fly hp.
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Got the DSD SLM ghost face series mate. I might talk to Mike and see if I can swap them because mine light up amber and would probably prefer light up white lol. I got Oil pressure, oil temp, water temp and volts, but going to get rid of the volts one and get boost
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If you buy an oil pressure gauge, it SHOULD come with all the necessary fittings to have a complete working gauge. Although you may need a sandwich plate. Some people T the oil pressure switch on the front of the block as it saves grinding the power steering bracket. I've got some STRI gauges and love them
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Oil temp and safe top speed on 200bhp 4efte standard engine
AdamB replied to raffa_mk's topic in Performance & Track Days
x2, but generally speaking I wouldn't want to see no more than 110-115 degC. Change your oil to a thicker viscosity if it gets too high. -
Fit a speedo converter.
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UKSO's hottest gf (fresh start)
AdamB replied to ryan lang's topic in Not Work Safe - The Naughty Corner!
LOL who wouldn't? -
UKSO's hottest gf (fresh start)
AdamB replied to ryan lang's topic in Not Work Safe - The Naughty Corner!
Think I need to move where she ^^^ lives! -
Don't necessarily need a new engine, but by the time the bottom end gets rebuilt you might as well just rebuild the whole engine. Then its a question of do I forge it or not? Its never ending lol.
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Jeez fuck me thats some going! The idea of a larger fuel rail is to stop it from running dry. If you've only got a small rail, then the injectors will take all the fuel and the rail will run dry, if you have a larger rail theres more fuel in the rail, so if the injectors take x amount theres still fuel left over, hence they are "larger volume"
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I got a Zisco one Matt, but don't have it with me at the moment to measure I thought it looked a bit square as well lol.
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car wont start after manual conversion help!
AdamB replied to Fealscott's topic in Ignition & Fueling
Have you confirmed its not getting fuel? Have you removed the banjo from the fuel rail to see if its spitting fuel out? Have you checked for spark? -
Sweet, that ends that argument lol. Do you know what the diameter is? Just wonder how it compares to the others out there.
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Ah fair enough. The writing is the same on all their rails mate, the one on my dads skyline is the same lol. Ruins it tbh! SKH rather than HKS
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From what I heard the HKS rail is just a bling item anyway. It's not actually any larger than stock. Never had one though so can't confirm, half the reason why I went for the Zisco one.
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Is it under full throttle acceleration?