AdamB

Check on the inside of your petrol flap, usually says on a sticker what the minimum RON number to use. I'm sure you can get away with running 95 on these motors in standard trim.

First would be to check the wiring on the fan switch. After that then replace the switch, pretty sure ID Workz will do them or Toyota, can't imagine their that expensive.

Those BM motors seem quite common on needing spark plug seals, I've had to replace a few myself. Probably worth doing if the valve cover is still off matey.

If you can post both the graphs up mate it might point towards something or another. How many miles were on the motor when it first got tuned and made 200bhp? How many miles on it when it was dyno'd at 187bhp?

Aren't the joints on the EP91 bolted onto the wishbone anyway? If my memory images serve me correct lol. Could just be a case of using a ball joint as a template to get the bolt holes then extending. It's not something I would probably recommend doing though as it's likely to lead to all sorts of other suspension geometry problems.

When was the first tune done? What was the air temperature like compared to the second dyno run where you made 187bhp?

Ah I see. You'll be best off speaking to someone called "Azerty", not sure he's on here but you'll find him on TGTT. He sprints in his Starlet in Malta I believe, he was after the same thing as he wanted to widen the track width of the chassis. I don't know how far he got into researching into it, or figuring something out but he will be the man with the most experience about this situation. Other than that it would be to make up custom wishbones. Not tricky but it will mess with pretty much all of the geometry such as castor, kingpin etc.

Adjustable in what sense?

Gutted for you Jay, but I hope you're okay and that's the main thing.

What ecu are you currently using? As that will ultimately determine how large you can go with it's actuation control. I wouldn't go over 550's unless running a standalone.

GTX turbo's spool no faster than normal GT ball bearing series turbo's. Better off saving some cash and just going for a GT2860 or 67.

Forget twin plates. I'd say competition clutch.

Need a vid 😁

Put a set of Bilstein's on the rear mate. Reason why it's bouncy is because the damper can't control the rate of the spring, this happens a lot when putting aftermarket springs on OEM dampers.

What clutch is it mate?

They are old, they are still good in terms of getting a map. But it's features that have led the drive for better and more capable engine management systems.

The only downside to running two different compounds would be you wouldn't be able to rotate them. Depends how many road miles you cover really. Could always get the 180's for now, then when you get track wheels bung a set of 120's on them, their cheap enough to do so plus will give you a good comparison.

Cusco are good, but their material is just as poor as whiteline imo. Tends to corrode and look pretty naff.

I'd recommend the 120's mate, the cars too light and could run with the softer compound. I run 180's, had 1 trackday and 10k road miles so far, still about 2.5mm'ish of tread left. Or if you want to be clever, 180's on the front and 120's on the back, might provide a better balance and less faffing with tyre pressures.

From the pic that oil is coming before the turbo to me which would be valve stem seals. Were the stem seals replaced when rebuilt? I would double check though and remove the manifold from the head, that will give a clearer indication as to what's going on and where the problem may lay.

I use them on my Civic, tyres start getting expensive when you go to some proper sized tyres haha, so can't grudge paying £200 per corner for AD08's or R888. A little camber helps with lateral force from the tyres, but doesn't generate a great deal more heat. Weight is a big influential factor, so is spring rate

Those hot pressures still seem pretty low lol. As long as you got on alright with them though is the main thing. I'm in a mad rush to get my car done and ready to get back out asap, but I'm not 100% confident I'm gonna make it with work in the way and everything I tend to run lower pressure in the rear than the front, purely because there's less weight at the rear (fwd), the lower pressure helps create more friction and helps keep the tyres upto temp better. Plus the higher front pressure keeps a sharp turn in. Everyone drives different though, just a case of experimenting, I found with the NS2-R's that I like approx 4psi hot increase in the front Vs rear pressures.

Still looking good Jay! What tyres are you running at the moment then? Tyre pressures are very low and interesting way that you've gone lower at the front than the rear. Did you not find the front end washing out with flexing the sidewalls?

Next is always a good shout. Not all that cheap for a high street shop though but the quality is good. I only went in to look for a blazer, ended up walking out with a fully tailored suit lol.

Haha Hugo Boss?