AdamB

Yes mate still available

75w90 is most common used mate. Unless the car is heavily abused or has some serious gearbox problems your trying to cover up then thats what I would stick to. I wouldn't worry too much about specific standards that the oil meets, just go for a good brand as its likely they will cover if not exceed the required standards.

This is years old lads and nothing has happened so I wouldn't hold your breath.

Am sure you can get away with doing it with 2L if you stand their long enough getting every last drop out, but just easier to buy 3L. Any good brand such as Fuchs, Motul, Redline will work well

Long and short of it is no, standard turbo cores generally come with plastic bearing cartridges, and will melt using anti lag. Borg Warner is the only company I know of that use a metal cage as standard, other turbos such as Garrett have to be modified. With that said you will still find after a short while chips on the turbine blades. Bee R's are harmful, but to me it seems a waste to spend all that money if your only interested in some flames, just be careful with how you use it.

High compression ratio ;)

Apexi AVCR or use a standalone ecu with PID control

Any standalone on the market will offer those features, but if you just want it for some pops and bangs get a Bee R.

It'll make no difference what so ever in terms of performance. Like Trisk says though, most kits aren't interchangeable with one another.

Then realise the pistons have cracked ringlands and go forged anyway lol.

Water won't boil and turn to steam because its in a closed system under greater than atmospheric pressure. There isn't really much need for the water cooling as oil acts as a cooling method as well as lubricating. Its mainly for those people that use their vehicles as road cars and don't want to sit there for 2 mins while the turbo maintains a stable temperature after a blast.

To keep up gas velocity I guess.

Everything you need to know about a 5E is covered here mate http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?9694-Whose-done-a-5E-Conversion Balancing is anywhere betwern £200-£300 different places vary. Pauter rods don't need the block to be notched as far as I'm aware and getting cylinders bored and honed is usually about £30 a cylinder, but again varies depending on who does it.

I spent around £10k just in parts alone, still needed at least another £5ks worth of parts plus all my time and effort. That excludes buying 3 turbo starlets.

Since your halfway there I would remove the pistons and check them as its a common problem

Pm'd you back with pics mate

Move the bulkhead back, fit an ae86 rear axle, job done lol.

List updated

Anything is possible with some money.

There isn't really one because it depends on you as a person on what you want to keep, you can take out tbe electric windows, electric mirrors if you N/A has them, remove the heater matrix, the blower unit, remove all the wiring.

The only thing I can really suggest is taking the block to the engineers and get them to check the angle of the bores relative to the crank because if you go for a rebore again and the bore is off centre, you may well end up increasing the angle its off centre by. Its not really something you hear of very often, but thats not to say it can't happen.

Thats worrying mate, that would normally indicate to me that the bores previously haven't been bored at a true 90 degree angle to the crankshaft centreline, and normally you would have a tapering bore where say for example the bottom of the bore is larger than the top or vice versa, which may well be the reason as to why you have different bore diameters and tight rod clearences.

What brand are they mate? Best way is to use an internal micrometer to measure internal diameters.

If its the bore then I would just go with the 75mm piston and get it rebored to suit mate, would save scrapping the block. You won't need to touch the rods mate, just use the ones that came out the engine originally assuming they are forged ones? As long as a bearings never spun you'll be fine to reuse them

The Tial Q is adjustable with varying spring pressures. Specs at the bottom of the page: http://www.tialsport.com/index.php/tial-products/bovs/46-tialbvq