richardc9052

Yeah bud it works both ways

Yes they will. Depending on the bearings you may need to change them too but a turbo bell housing into a 4age box should match up

I have a corolla mani here.. its 4-2-1 but the oem one so the 4-2 is cast and the 2-1 is tubular. it will need a piece welding on though

Get a quote from OnlyYoungDrivers ;) insured me on a rover 620ti with 0 no claims for 1k lol

I should have an ecu from a gi i can add sooon

Thanks! We should make a thread that lists jap ecu codes for future reference

Daniel can you do me a massive favour and post up a pic of the ecu sticker with the codes on etc?

Of course a code will show up.. the car is missing the o2 sensor.. your missing the point entirely. the standard ecu used the lambda sensor but ONLY and cruise/low throttle. after that it goes into open loop and does not use the sensor any more.. SO if you unplug the lambda it will run crappy because its supposed to be in closed loop but cant so it runs rich and off the open loop map. Once you floor it though it will run the same as usual because it doesnt need the lambda for that. And yes i know that the p&p ecu's are modified standard ecus. the take some of the readings fromt he standard chip but others are directly re-routed to the tuners chip, which then feeds all its info into a decryption chip which then tells the engine what to do. What i want to know is if the tuner that told my mate this is full of shit. I think he is, but who am i to question him?? He said that the jam ecu uses the o2 sensor all the way through the rpm range and that without the lambda plugged in (it got ripped off as above) he should be careful and not boost etc because his engine will fail somehow.. Id love to have a jam ecu and a wideband soo i could unplug my lambda and show that the afrs are the same when in open loop but i dont have one, so i cant.. i know how the standard ecu runs without a lambda down low. ive done it many times. I also know how they run in open loop without a lambda and i understand, for the most part how it works and why, which is what is causing me to argue the tuner is full of shit. Any other input here? if he is right please show me proof and if you know he isnt i also would like to see proof so i can show them.

Thanks I couldnt ever find what people where talking about hahaha Now you have pointed it out i dont know why i couldnt see it before :/

<a href="http://s947.photobucket.com/user/richardc905/media/517F2283-561E-4325-87A0-2937E684BDE1_zpsyactuyp8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/richardc905/517F2283-561E-4325-87A0-2937E684BDE1_zpsyactuyp8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 517F2283-561E-4325-87A0-2937E684BDE1_zpsyactuyp8.jpg"/></a>

I might have a used gasket here.. if i can find it you can have it for postage cost

whats it like with the car off?

not all jdm 4efe engines are 100bhp.. some n/a's did come with the water port.

Not always the case.. I haven't ever found the pin out on the inside of any of my ecu

Retard timing, add fuel, remove cat, add a bung and a thin bolt juts after decat to burn the fuel when it's hot. There's loads of ways and i also love the sound. If you have a piggyback just pull timing on vac at higher rpms and dump fuel.. Depending how far you go it will end up sounding like anti-lag

Actually it can be used for more than that but its not very accurate if you do.. it is a 0-1v sensor and it is variable. not just a 3 way switch to say lean.good.rich You can harness it to aim for a different afr if you have a piggyback you can use it as the load and aim for 11.0 and add or subtract fuel depending on which way it goes...

no you werent. in a way they do but only under certain circumstances. its too late for me to explain though hahaha Yeah me too. i could spend hours reading random stuff haha

Basically yeah. If you google Open loop vs Closed loop ECU you will find loads of stuff on it and youll understand how they work a lot better.. still loads that you cant find on google but thats why im asking here lol You should deffo look it up. its really handy to know

I wasnt running a lambda until i plumbed in my widebands 0-1v feed to the ecu. Your ecu doesnt use the lambda once you put your foot down in a normal ecu as it enters open loop and doesnt need to hit 14.7afr

When though? down low and cruising i can understand as that how any ecu would react as run rich because they are in open loop without the lambda but up high and on boost i cant understand..

Right i have been told by someone that they where advised by their tuner that the jam ecu needs the car to have a lambda connected as it uses the lambda readings constantly. so effectively never goes into open loop. I call bullshit but the guy says his car now runs like crap on boost when it should be in open loop.. (the guys decat cracked and the bung for the lambda and the sensor fell out and lost on the road) Now from the information ive gathered 02/lambda sensors become inaccurate when aiming for anything over or below stoich and dont react quick enough for this to be true. Please tell me im wrong because then ill need to understand why lol

That i am unsure of!

The pink injectors are the jdm 4e ones. you would be better off fitting bigger injectors or it might be running lean.. But here is another suprise. because you have the pink injectors and probably all the other bits that where on the 4e, thats a 100bhp setup on a 4e

You don't have the right inlet mani fitted. The right one has an extra piece to cover it up and the correct gasket covers it too. Looks like your running a custom stainless mani.. Get someone to weld the extra bit on as required and buy the proper gasket

You sure its not your clutch slave or a faulty pressure plate?