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richardc9052

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Everything posted by richardc9052

  1. The 4e I'm running now without power steering and a/c pumps is a lot livelier with the revs so aside from the weight I'd say it does help, like a lightened flywheel does
  2. I have looped the cooland but still have the iacv fitted and connected.. It's partially operated by the ecu so that's why yours won't idle.. Mine idles high for longer but doesn't have a problem doing so..
  3. I have this done on mine don't know if it made a difference because I hadn't driven it without
  4. Good lol i thought you where just going to slap a turbo on and go hahaha
  5. It must be your lambda or a leak before it causing it to read incorrectly.. If your using an AEM UEGO wideband you can change it to PO4 on the switch at read and splice the white wire into the lambda input on the ecu to give he reading from the widebands 0-1v emulation. Thats how mine is now and it works great
  6. Well if you try it without i WILL tell you i told you so.
  7. Yeah that's the same principal as an fcd and affects the timing
  8. If you do it without changing loom and ecu or adding a piggyback the only way you can do it it by running turbo injectors, rrfpr, fully retard the timing on the dizzy and unplug the lambda. It will run well but will be a pig on juice..
  9. Tried changing map sensor, vacuum pipe and/or point of vacuum reading?
  10. I don't know about others but I'd prefer the piggyback custom mapped to the car than a plug and play.. Why the change in management?
  11. You need a 3E flywheel Or just use the 5E Flywheel and buy a 4EFE paddle clutch and 5e pressure plate
  12. Any pics of what these look like?
  13. Have a look into an aem fic.. £250 new delivered from the US including customs fees.. Has an internal map sensor and better fuel control over a blue. Also has loads of other options
  14. Well you could mess about doing that but then you still need the rest of the connectors so you may aswell get the whole loom.. I'm doing it atm, 4efe-t with piggyback
  15. Luke you will need a piggyback.. 2-300 + mapping if your not doing it your self... Piggyback-250 + fitting Turbo kit - (ct9-150, td04-350) Oil pickup and sump-50 4efte injectors-30 Fmic-100 Exhaust- 100 Mapping-(200-400 depending) Full 4efte engine, loom and ecu, 500 Ct9 kit 150 Exhaust 100
  16. Tbh it will be more expensive than a 4efte conversion but I prefer the higher compression for off boost driving.. Also means the td04 would spool a lot faster than on a 4efte
  17. Yes use the 4efe ecu and get a piggyback. Sump + matching pickup Oil filter housing + oil lines 4efte injectors Mani, turbo, downpipe and exhaust (your current one won't match up) Front mount (don't use a top mount for a 4efe-t build. Heat= More chance of det) Optional is thermostat housing because you don't HAVE to run water lines. I'd also recommend a td04 on the same low boost you planned.. Again because of intake temps. You can then run slightly richer to get charge temps back down.
  18. I went from a 4efte sump to a 4efe ;) to mot my car without a turbo
  19. I'm not sure on lengths but check the standard size. I'm sure it's 40-50mm so 65 should be plenty good price per stud too.
  20. I once made the mistake of not matching the pickup and sump and ended up crushing the pickup without realising.. Resulting in the head not getting enough oil and literally fried the head on my newly rebuilt engine.
  21. Did you get the pickup with it? Make sure you get a matching pickup..
  22. Piss easy to change. See if you can find a mk2 mr2 about for breaking. They are much longer and you'll have 4 spare then ;)
  23. Some have an extra piece to cover a water channel
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