richardc9052

Your thinking of oversized pistons mate

all same apart from the hangars on the back box

Any that are passed being ok to repair, even if they are chopped etc. im looking for stuff your going to throw out.. Dont care if they are mild or stainless.. please dont offer me anything you think has any worth as i dont want to offend. Pm me with pics if you have something Cheers!

I couldnt even begin to imagine the effort that goes into creating these.. do you have to manually scale them or do you have a 3d scanner that you use in sections?

Its definitely worth it. Ive been in a few cars with them, one a glanza and another an ae111, the rest arent worth mentioning. The glanza and ae111 where completely different beasts when it came to the lower to mid rpms

That's awesome!!

Boost will still come on at the same rpm, it will be more free revving and there will be less power loss to the wheels.

Make your own dude

I love them!

Quick question, I haven't had the time to check this myself but does having the car in diagnostic mode hold the base timing of 10deg the whole way through the rpm/load range? I know it holds it at idle for ease of setting but I'm just curious..

Thought your tuner was doing this?

Looks like it.. its hard to tell without seeing them in person but from the pics on the 1st page i wouldnt even bother running them

Mild steel mani's are easier to weld than stainless as the stainless manifolds tend to be thinner.

Yes it would be "ok"

Personal opinion, go standard.. I have a spare rail with standard fpr here if you want. £12 posted.

Do you have power steering and air con?

Thats because they are rising rate. if you put your standard fpr back on it would run better and probably make more power. The ecu is perfectly capable of fueling a ct9 up to fuel cut. As i will advise everyone, always get your fueling checked when you make such a change.

the ecu doesnt control fueling as well as a rrfpr? The ecu controls the injections period/length to add or remove fuel. a rrfpr is a mechanical band aid for a problem that doesnt exist. For an N/A -T conversion i would suggest a rrfpr as a cheap fix if it was just a crap car you wanted to boost as it adds extra fuel in areas the ecu doesnt know how to operate (on boost) But for a turbo car that already adjust fueling according to boost pressure you do not need one within the ecu's limits. If you find you do need one, bigger turbo or wanting to fuel past boost cut then a piggyback/P&P

£30 posted as it will be coming from Ireland

The problem is that an FCD was mentioned and they affect timing and make the ecu think there is less air coming into the engine which adjusts the rest of the map also. You then fix it using a rrfpr because the injection time has dropped due to fcd so increasing fuel pressure works. But then you have the problem where your increasing the pressure as the boost raises and you end up running rich. So you drop it down but end up running too lean down low. You find a happy medium but your still overfueling somewhere and robbing yourself of power.. Thats why this stuff isnt liked.

As above. I'm doing the same

Not recommended.. Either go p&p or piggyback and get it mapped. No need for a rrfpr or an fcd and you can run 1 bar safely. *still get fuelling checked with p&p just incase

Want to sell the fucked toyosport ones? Want them for the flanges ;)

I have one here if you want it.. Make an offer

Put your boost back to standard.. put your standard fpr on and it will probably be faster than it is now.. Your killing your power and destroying your mpg figures by running such high fuel pressure.