funny onion

i've just bought some 8j et 10 fitment but i'm yet to sit the car down on them

ep82? ep91?

There's a thread in the wiki section on here with pics of all colours and their corresponding paint code 040 is white 1A0 is silver 205 is metallic black 3E5 is red etc...

You can sand it and re-lacquer it... I would go over it with fine grit like 1000-1200 as you don't want to cut into it too much. then lay the lacquer on lightly at first to let it adhere, then a bit thicker as you go on. Bare in mind that you won't get a great finish unless you've got it all nice and flat where the lacquer has peeled but don't rub through the paint. Ideally you're best bet it to rub it all back, prime, paint, then relacquer but if you don't want to do that then fair enough. It's very tricky to touch it back where lacquer has peeled i've found, so be prepared to maybe h

Both my GT's have HKS hi power silents on... the red GT has the center box and is on a wepr ext gated tongs ct9 hybrid setup. It's very quiet The advance is on a hybrid TD04 set up with straight through mid pipe- it's a fair bit louder. I personally hate loud exahusts. couldn't think of anything worse than a nur spec etc. but that's just me. If you're going to bastardise the one you have maybe think about selling that and buying a different exhaust? i've got a fujitsubo that's quite loud and raspy, had a jperformance that was fairly loud.

They will rub for sure, the offset is the main problem. coilovers and pnhrad rod and it should be ok though. I run 15x8 et 17 and without 195 tyres, panhard rod and coilovers it would be undrivable

I wouldn't use additives or anything... just the oil and a magnetic sump plug

Ran my overhauled engine in on 1040 semi synthetic. Fired it up, let it run to temp, dropped the oil and changed the filter, drove it for 500 miles, changed oil and filter, then drove it for 1000 miles and did the same been fine for 3 years now

He got that from our local scrapyard. there will be EP80's knocking about in scrapyards. I used to have an EP80 without power steering (i gave it to sam so we still have it) and i hated it. so hard to park. felt shit driving as well really. i know it's track slag points and each to their own but i literally hated it.

easier to put a manual rack from an EP80 or non PAS EP91 because the ratio is right for the manual set up.

In theory the above is true, maintaining a constant heat throughout the exhaust system allows the gases to escape more efficiently. If the exhaust gases cool they slow down which can give the effect of raised backpressure. Although you have to be careful, if you don't wrap the manifold or downpipe evenly you can create hotspots, which can lead to them cracking/failing and uneven heat distribution. A lot of manifold manufacturers (like wepr and i believe zisco) actuallu wvoid warranty on their kits if you wrap them. You're best bet is ceramic coating for manifold and downpipe. but it'

If you need any info out of mine let me know and i'll send you pics of the pages!

woo

I had no EML when i built the red one, was down to the ecu earth that's on the icv, check that

i took photos of mine dude, have the owners manual, origianl broshure, service book, original fuel consumption sheet etc. but i've never looked through it before, it's really really cool.. lol i may keep it... sorry to be a complete arsehole! i'll put the pics up when i can

ah right that can make it a bit easier, i'm pretty crap when it comes to driveshafts haha took me ages to get the hang of knocking them out. got a 2 poster in the unit now though which makes things much easier!

^^^ LOL I always struggle to get the driveshafts back in the box. I have a short temper too which doesn't help. be gentle, try and line the splines up as best you can, make sure the circlip is centralised on the shaft (if that makes sense) then as above tap it in with a rubber mallet. Don't be tempted to bash it with a metal ahmmer as the end will mushroom and you won't get the nut on the end of the driveshaft.

Hey sorry- i had a look, they're just cut standard springs so i wouldn't recommend them- they came with the car. It's really easy to fit GT or glanza suspension though so it might be easier for you to do that. Just need to notch one of the holes for the front struts slightly.

Gutted you're still having bother but interested to see the outcome of this

I'll be there, hoping to be in the EP70 but if not i'll bring the advance again

It was probably easier to do this than to source a late spec loom! Haha. Not many 70's about now 😔

Been doing some of the boring stuff while waiting for the rear axle. Also, Milton has been hit pretty bad by the flooding recently so not sure when I'll be able to get the engine up to park for machining. That's if they're not underwater :/. The EP70 has individual relay/fuse boxes on the light loom. They make the bay look untidy so I fitted the loom into place, chopped the plugs off either side and soldered it all back up and mounted the boxes in the wings. Boring job but tidier bay. Also started major surgery on the original and turbo engine looms. All the crap that's not needed

Hey dude there will be a lift pump that draws fuel into the swirl pot from the main tank, then a sard in tank pump in the swirl pot to pump fuel to the front.

Tongs!

I've moved mine about with shafts in and out. Prefer to move them with shafts in though, either split the shaft at the cv or just tie wrap them up so they can still turn. Unlikely to do any damage