funny onion

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-4EFTE-EP91-Turbo-Silicone-radiator-hose-coolant-hose-kit-in-RED-/331608970899?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota%7CModel%3AStarlet&hash=item4d356f5693:g:LcwAAOSwZd1VWaDO roose motorsport do kits too but they're nearly double. great quality though http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-1-3-Turbo-Ancillary-Hose-Kit-with-Colour-Clip-Kit-Choice-Roose-/251164965067?var=550186358436&hash=item3a7a9938cb:m:mascnjuPQtWzBCdnBZH3iPQ

yeah rhd japan for the win

Thanks very much for the tips much appreciated! Mounted the cables up on the clips now but not on the callipers yet I'll bare it in mind when I adjust the handbrake though I have some double shielded 175 amp cable that I've ran in already. I use the same stuff in my advance with no problems so should be ok. Got a killswitch in line too. Splitter is the standard one. All bodywork is standard apart from the ep70 spoiler I got from browner. As for inter cooler, planning on using a very small one to save bumper mods. It's going to be Ct9 to start with Anyways so doesn't need a massive one. Can fit a fan on it too if need be.

awh must be nice to see it running again!

Thanks guys, I kinda wish I'd done the bay pink now but oh well haha. Yeah should turn a few heads with the bonnet up hopefully. and when I put my foot down haha. held up the hks back box and it looks like it will only need a few modifications to the hangers and it will fit, so just need to make up the rear section that goes around the fuel tank. seems to be plenty of room though.

May be totally wrong here but I think the ecu gets the speed signal from a pulse generator in the clocks where the speedo cable plugs in. Having to fit one to my EP70 clocks for the 4efte conversion :/ So if all else fails see if a buddy can lend you some clocks to check if it's your clocks or a break in the signal wire for the code 12

welcome!

12 is rpm/engine speed signal I think? but yeah knock sensor being effectively disconnected will make it run crap. I don't think lack of engine speed signal will make it run any different just puts the em light on I think

Ideally you need the downpipe off. is the penny welded? or is it held shut by the arm? I made a solid bracket up for mine in the end. using the bonnet scoop bracket haha

Check that the wastegate on the turbo is closed properly. Since you're externally gated, if the penny washer isn't quite held shut it will give you a really late/sluggish spool. Had this on mine before, maybe worth a check...

So got the little bugger on all fours over the weekend, first time it's been on wheels since I started to strip it. I left the coilovers alone and just fitted them, they were set up for a GT so I didn't know how it would sit. Doesn't sit too bad, but it's really low! arch gap is ok but the sump/gearbox is really low! better watch out for those speed bumps! I'd looked underneath at the sills before but had a much better look at the underneath once it was on the ramp and was pleasantly surprised! sills and floorpan are mint! going to fit new copper brake lines to the back though as they were a bit crusty. I think it would go through MOT with them but seems like I've come this far and everything else is brand new so might as well. new fuel line to go to the front too for the fuel feed, going to use the standard fuel line for the fuel return. Going to run the new brake lines and fuel line in and then underseal the full car. I have a rear antiroll bar too so may see if that will fit. Still need to fit the lift pump that will fill the swirl pot and wire up the signal wire to the pump that I've ran in. It's getting closer, but still a few jobs to do!

He sold the white one to me but I have some spares. What you looking for?

Just bought mine woop

Just try some thinners on a rag, wet the primer a bit with the thinners then wipe it off. Or just get some fine grade sandpaper and rub it off

Cheers guys Yeah i'll be happy to have it at JAE so got a few months yet! I'm terrible for having too many projects/toys on the go at the same time. I'm always spraying something for someone at the minute, or repairing the Advance splitter, or playing with my WR or the bike that the lad who shares our lock up has bought etc etc Wheels for sam that were in desperate need of a refurb and paint Looks so sad without the front splitter but it was well busted and in need of repair My WR125- got a variety of sprockets on order to change the gearing a little A friends old Honda C50 that we managed to get fired up and go for an ear splitting ride around the lock ups, needs a bit of TLC but it's a wee classic! haha And I'm always sharing my time with this bugger haha I usually invest most of my time where I can into the EP70 but I take on too much at the same time and working full time hahaha

Another little update. fitted the battery, washer bottle and mounting for the swirl pot in the boot. Also hooked the battery up now the starter motor and alternator wiring are in place to check the car loom as I've re-wired most of it. I was absolutely crapping myself as I was worried there would be a dead short somewhere although I had checked over everything before hooking it up. All was good though no fires! After swapping dead bulbs and stuff everything worked! headlights, sidelights, stop/tail, horn, washer bottle pump etc. well chuffed! I took a bit of a chance on the washer bottle pump wires but it turned out to be a good call. I also accidentally chopped the plug off the car loom for the wiper motor on the front when stripping the looms out, my bad! rewired it up though and they work mint too! bonus! mounted the washer bottle in the offside c pillar where the jack would normally go, and as the line for the rear screen wash on these runs under the roof lining it seemed like a reasonable place. plus it's out of the way too, stealthy! it is water tight and to fill it up I just lift it back out of the c pillar, plenty of length on the fluid line and wires. plus the standard little door shuts over it to tuck it away nicely. Also made a massive leap on tidying the wiring in the engine bay up. got rid of a lot of redundant wiring for a start, got rid of the diagnostic plug- to bridge the terminals to show fault codes or lock the static timing etc. I will wire in a switch next to the ECU that will earth the same port essentially. Fitted the turbo kit up, had to take a very small amount out of the lip on the top crossmember but it was only a few mm and you can't notice unless you look. Also finally a use for the teeny tiny 33mm blitz boost gauge I had lying around. I bought it ages ago because I'd never seen one so small and it was really cute hahaha. but it fts perfectly into one of the blanked areas on the dash with no trimming so I can still but the standard blank back in. keeps the sleeper(ish) look too, I didn't want gauges all over so it was totally obvious it was a turbo. Hoping to get this on the ramp soon to get it all undersealed and run the fuel line from the swirl pot to the front. it rolls now but I need to get some driveshaft nuts before I actually move it anywhere. the standard EP70 shafts were much smaller so the nuts don't fit the turbo shafts unfortunately. All in good time

wooooo when is it gong on? are you going to turbo the fe?

Hmm not sure then. have you traced wires back? there's a wiring diagram available on TGTT that may shed some light. or if all else fails unplug it and see what happens haha

low brake fluid warning

Love this so much! so clean! Do your wheels pink to match the bay and cage!

oooh get some proper pics of the wheels!!!!

Proper beast of a shell! can't believe someone hasn't bought this for track. Forged engine and it would be a beast! Free bump

Love it! great base to start on!

Cheers dude! I'll update this soon, made some progress recently, hooked the battery up and early sorted the wiring, all lights and everything work great so my r-wiring seems to have been ok! hopefully going to get the turbo kit fitted this weekend just need to rotate the turbo for the top mount kit

I've done them with the rope trick with the head on and also with the head off. Rope is a bit tricky, sometimes takes a few goes to actually hold the valve shut and it's a pain having to do it for each cylinder. Also, the rope I was using tended to get nipped by the valves making it a pain to remove. I have some pics of when I did mine with the head off, I'll try and put a little guide on here but it's not that difficult.