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funny onion

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Everything posted by funny onion

  1. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-4EFTE-EP91-Turbo-Silicone-radiator-hose-coolant-hose-kit-in-RED-/331608970899?fits=Car+Make%3AToyota%7CModel%3AStarlet&hash=item4d356f5693:g:LcwAAOSwZd1VWaDO roose motorsport do kits too but they're nearly double. great quality though http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-1-3-Turbo-Ancillary-Hose-Kit-with-Colour-Clip-Kit-Choice-Roose-/251164965067?var=550186358436&hash=item3a7a9938cb:m:mascnjuPQtWzBCdnBZH3iPQ
  2. Thanks very much for the tips much appreciated! Mounted the cables up on the clips now but not on the callipers yet I'll bare it in mind when I adjust the handbrake though I have some double shielded 175 amp cable that I've ran in already. I use the same stuff in my advance with no problems so should be ok. Got a killswitch in line too. Splitter is the standard one. All bodywork is standard apart from the ep70 spoiler I got from browner. As for inter cooler, planning on using a very small one to save bumper mods. It's going to be Ct9 to start with Anyways so doesn't need a massive one. Ca
  3. awh must be nice to see it running again!
  4. Thanks guys, I kinda wish I'd done the bay pink now but oh well haha. Yeah should turn a few heads with the bonnet up hopefully. and when I put my foot down haha. held up the hks back box and it looks like it will only need a few modifications to the hangers and it will fit, so just need to make up the rear section that goes around the fuel tank. seems to be plenty of room though.
  5. May be totally wrong here but I think the ecu gets the speed signal from a pulse generator in the clocks where the speedo cable plugs in. Having to fit one to my EP70 clocks for the 4efte conversion :/ So if all else fails see if a buddy can lend you some clocks to check if it's your clocks or a break in the signal wire for the code 12
  6. 12 is rpm/engine speed signal I think? but yeah knock sensor being effectively disconnected will make it run crap. I don't think lack of engine speed signal will make it run any different just puts the em light on I think
  7. Ideally you need the downpipe off. is the penny welded? or is it held shut by the arm? I made a solid bracket up for mine in the end. using the bonnet scoop bracket haha
  8. Check that the wastegate on the turbo is closed properly. Since you're externally gated, if the penny washer isn't quite held shut it will give you a really late/sluggish spool. Had this on mine before, maybe worth a check...
  9. So got the little bugger on all fours over the weekend, first time it's been on wheels since I started to strip it. I left the coilovers alone and just fitted them, they were set up for a GT so I didn't know how it would sit. Doesn't sit too bad, but it's really low! arch gap is ok but the sump/gearbox is really low! better watch out for those speed bumps! I'd looked underneath at the sills before but had a much better look at the underneath once it was on the ramp and was pleasantly surprised! sills and floorpan are mint! going to fit new copper brake lines to the back though as they were
  10. He sold the white one to me but I have some spares. What you looking for?
  11. Just try some thinners on a rag, wet the primer a bit with the thinners then wipe it off. Or just get some fine grade sandpaper and rub it off
  12. Cheers guys Yeah i'll be happy to have it at JAE so got a few months yet! I'm terrible for having too many projects/toys on the go at the same time. I'm always spraying something for someone at the minute, or repairing the Advance splitter, or playing with my WR or the bike that the lad who shares our lock up has bought etc etc Wheels for sam that were in desperate need of a refurb and paint Looks so sad without the front splitter but it was well busted and in need of repair My WR125- got a variety of sprockets on order to change the gearing a little A
  13. Another little update. fitted the battery, washer bottle and mounting for the swirl pot in the boot. Also hooked the battery up now the starter motor and alternator wiring are in place to check the car loom as I've re-wired most of it. I was absolutely crapping myself as I was worried there would be a dead short somewhere although I had checked over everything before hooking it up. All was good though no fires! After swapping dead bulbs and stuff everything worked! headlights, sidelights, stop/tail, horn, washer bottle pump etc. well chuffed! I took a bit of a chance on the washer bottle p
  14. wooooo when is it gong on? are you going to turbo the fe?
  15. Hmm not sure then. have you traced wires back? there's a wiring diagram available on TGTT that may shed some light. or if all else fails unplug it and see what happens haha
  16. Proper beast of a shell! can't believe someone hasn't bought this for track. Forged engine and it would be a beast! Free bump
  17. Cheers dude! I'll update this soon, made some progress recently, hooked the battery up and early sorted the wiring, all lights and everything work great so my r-wiring seems to have been ok! hopefully going to get the turbo kit fitted this weekend just need to rotate the turbo for the top mount kit
  18. I've done them with the rope trick with the head on and also with the head off. Rope is a bit tricky, sometimes takes a few goes to actually hold the valve shut and it's a pain having to do it for each cylinder. Also, the rope I was using tended to get nipped by the valves making it a pain to remove. I have some pics of when I did mine with the head off, I'll try and put a little guide on here but it's not that difficult.
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