Flaminsam

I've not used it on track but I've given it plenty of hammer. It must be better than nothing though.

This is my set up on my gt. I've never seen my oil temps go over 90 degrees with spirited driving. I've used the two redundant coolant lines from the standard ct9 to provide cooling to the oil cooler. The oil cooler came off a Toyota avensis. 👍🏻

All the best to the ukso admin and staff!

I think they are m5 to be honest. 8mm head m5 thread.

Got an ep80 rack here. You will need the steering column too as they are longer. You can remove your original steering column and change the steering shaft that runs up the middle of the column to keep your adjustable steering wheel height.

The headlights have a permanent power to them if i remember right. Then it's the switch in the car that gives them an earth to turn them on.

Many thanks to staff for organising jae this year. As always it was a brilliant show with fun times and making memories with you crazy bunch! Roll on jae 2017!!

As always the marquee will be up in no time 👍🏻 can't wait to see everyone again and have a catch up 😋

Sorry Colin I was meant to write up a how to. The bearing is only a couple of quid and the seal cost me about £7 from my local seal and gasket company. Bear with me and il see about reviving the old thread.

Whoop! Last nights graft paid off 👍🏻

Proof that it made it to petrol station 😂👍🏻

Should be a wire on connector 2 pin 8 I believe. Are you using a gt ecu or ep91? If it has two connectors on the ecu it's the small plug and looking at the back of that plug (where the wires go in) it's the top left wire. Can't remember the colour. That just needs earthing to put your ecu into diagnostic mode which locks the ignition timing. 👍🏻

Not at liberty to say as I didn't buy the pump from the company. It was already installed on my car.

Hey people. So recently I've been having problems with the gt. It would stutter, cut out completely and even while ticking over it would blow the fuse for the efi. I decided to have a check of my fuel pressure and found it to be only 10psi while idling with the signal line attached. Removed, it would barely increase in pressure. So after it cut out on me for about the 20th time I decided to do some digging. Removed the fuel pump/sender and was greeted with a lovely sight. As you can see the wiring is charred from a massive draw of current. I asked the previous owner what fuel pump had been fitted and it was from a representative tuning company that tunes starlets. I have a new fuel pump to fit from my old gt so things should be good soon enough. I believe that the original fuel pump has started to collapse inside or seize causing a massive draw and blowing the fuse. Obviously the wire has been getting hot as the picture above proves. This is just a heads up to people who have issues with fuelling or failing to start.

Just speaking from my previous experience with the vf and TD. The an3 line will provide a slight restriction I agree 👍🏻

Be aware that the oil feed to the vf series of turbo have a tiny hole for the oil. I believe it's 0.8mm. The TD series of turbo has a 1.2mm hole for the oil. Any bigger and the oil seals will leak on the turbo. 👍🏻

Yup 1+4. Rule of thumb timing is done with number 1 piston at tdc. Some engines (not starlets) have the Pistons half way down the bore for timing belt/chain changes.

I like this 👍🏻

It runs everything with a black/red trace on it. It powers fuel pump, injectors, boost solenoid, air temp sensor, coil and a few other bits and bobs. If I were you I would unplug all the consumers from the fuse and plug them in one by one to see what blows the fuse.

Hull, a few starlets here. Mostly owned by myself and charl 😂

I'm up for this! XL for me please!

Your not the only one Alexster!

Here's mine.

Wings look cool! 👍🏻

As Richard said. But for it to blow a fuse like that it must be a dead short. Replaced any bulbs recently?