Flaminsam

Just be aware that they are not the same for drum and disk. We had to cut the stub axles off Charls ep70 to fit disks on the rear. The stub axle is smaller in diameter on the drum type. 👍🏻

Do we have a club stand even booked for jae? Admin seem to be pretty silent on this one 😕

Hey guys and girls, Picked up some alloys earlier and I'm struggling to find what they are. They look like league tantrums but have a racing hart concept sticker on them? So question is are they league tantrums or some kind of discontinued racing hart alloy? Pics below.......

I'm sure there's a company on eBay called big red that do seal kits for the calipers. It may be worth stripping the piston and seal out to free off the piston. Done it many times on rear calipers and the difference is noticeable.

First off like you say check the oil pick up pipe. Changed the o ring as in the description above which is good. Sounds to me like you have an air leak somewhere on the suction side to the pump. Air is a lot easier to suck than a liquid and even harder is oil to suck up to the oil pump. When you remove the 17mm banjo from the oil filter housing you are in effect priming the pump with oil allowing it to start the suction process from the sump. Sounds to me like you may have a leak from either a gasket or possibly a cracked block on the suction side. Also the oil coolers are a good idea in pri

Ukso cosplay? Could be interesting 😂 Standard nerf guns/wars. Something that we used to do years ago was an Easter egg hunt/trail. Series of cryptic clues with a hidden message or word at the end of all the trail?

Do believe the asbestos is in the clutch friction plate.

From what I'm aware there are two different sized pillow balls. I found these on eBay that could be the correct size. https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/161347475990

Could it possibly be to do with the return from the fpr? If the return is restricted then the pressure can effectively go up. Plus with the extra flow, the return back to the tank may not be big enough to cope?

Self lubericating on the outside!

This is how mine has come out. Takes a while to dry though.

If you can get in put your single hex 24mm socket on with a strong arm/breaker bar. Then get someone to hit towards the stuck plug on the knuckle of the breaker bar. This will effectively shock the plug while you are removing it.

I'm sure I read somewhere that it's every 3000 miles (5000km) then every second oil change, change the filter? I know that's what it says for the pulsar gtir so these are probably similar.

Not updated this thread for a while so I guess I should do! Well the gt has been in hibernation for the past 5 months so a few things needed some attention. As usual the battery was flat, tyres looked a little low on pressure and she could do with a service! Any way, I noticed an oil leak under my distributor and found that the internal seal for the dizzy had gone rock hard from years of oil. So I've got another dizzy and decided to strip it and rebuild it with new bearing and seal. The bargain part is that the bearing cost a whopping total of £1.80 and the seal was a grand total of about

Can't go wrong with a ZISCO dude! I know what you mean about the screamer note too. Mine seems quite different compared to Charls wepr ewg setup 👍🏻

It is possible to get the lower two nuts off the manifold. It's just a little fiddly to get the socket and extension in. It's much easier with the manifold off.

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/99371-distributor-leaking-onto-thermostat-housing/?fromsearch=1 That's the thread buddy.

It's off an avensis I believe. It works well and only had to modify the bolt that goes through the middle slightly. Really simple to do though.

Yea mine turned out to be the oil seal inside the distributor. Bit of a pain to do.

Here's my oil cooler set up. It's a water to oil heat exchanger that's piped up to where the standard coolant take offs are for the turbo. Simple and never seen the oil temp above 90.

Last night I cleaned off the suspected area with brake cleaner and found that the cam caps were sealed. (Little half moon piece) also the rocker cover gasket seemed sealed. After 20 mins of running I couldn't find a leak. So turned off and kept watching. I found oil started dripping slowly from the drain hole in the bottom of the dizzy. Found it! Bean, do you have a part number for that seal for the gt4? Also any sizes that you may have wrote down somewhere would be a help 👍🏻 Ollie, I think now that the seal that's internal has gone hard/brittle causing the leak. Hopefully

Cheers for the replys people. Just to clarify, the seal is smaller than the sealed bearing. It sits behind the bearing and the bearing is open to the rear. I.e the sealed bearing is only sealed on one side and the "cage" is open towards the smaller seal. If you remove the dizzy from the head you will see two tapered openings on the top of the dizzy. I'm guessing this is to guide oil into the housing to lubericate the shaft. Problem is there's no where for the oil to drain back out of this housing and back to the sump. The easiest way for the oil to go is pool up behind the seal and leak o

Hey guys and girls. So I am changing a few seals on the gt and the dizzy seems to be leaking in the thermostat housing. So me being my inquisitive self I stripped another dizzy to see what's actually going on in there. I found this....... The bearing is semi sealed, open to the rear. This isn't the problem though as I've found these online. The problem is the seal. The number on the seal reads kcr 175. It measures roughly 20mm OD x 10mm ID x 5mm deep. I'm struggling to find a seal to prevent the dizzy leaking again. The rubber in the seal has gone brittle and hard causing a lack of

Little tip for you, pack the oil pump with Vaseline (petroleum jelly) this will protect the pump until oil can lubericate it. Also as mentioned above, check for the o ring on the oil pick up to the block. Use a little petroleum jelly or oil on the o ring to allow it to slide in. Also is your oil pressure correct? Oil warning light going out? Has the pressure relief been clogged with debris?

Can be bloody tricky to get the rails just right. I used a spirit level across the bars to get the seat sat straight. So from the door to the hand brake surround if that makes any sence? Get it level on that then it should sit straight in the car.