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Flaminsam

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Everything posted by Flaminsam

  1. As jo said is there a cut off? About time I came along with the starlet clan rather than my usual club. Been going with team Fuji for years and I said I would come with the ukso family at some point in the future ;)
  2. Thanks guys! Also thanks to all staff that made it happen. I agree rockingham is a terrible set up. Can't see the track, stand areas not properly marked out and poor marshalling. Plus that bloody cerwin vega stand! No wonder the swift owners left early!
  3. Why am I so terrible at updating my thread. Basically the new 82 is in for mot as we speak. If she passes then il be coming to japfest 2 in her. 😀
  4. All being well I will be joining at Newark. 4am start for me. :/
  5. Where do I begin................. Fit exhaust, fit rear tailgate and bumper, wire up washer pump, fit roll cage, fit rear strut brace, fit recaro seats and harnesses, fit radio, attach front bumper. Make brackets for front reg plate, check tracking and camber, take for mot, tax it, oh and of course wash and polish her. Got my work cut out for the next 2 days 😢
  6. Hey guys and girls. Long overdue update is here. Plenty has gone on and I'm going to attempt to tell you all about it. Firstly the wiring of the gauges. Finally managed to get everything working as it should. I've minimised the wiring as much as possible to make space behind the dash. So when they were done I decided to carry on with the engine. So near but yet so far at this point. I decided to spray my rocker cover black as a bit of contrast with the bay. So now the engine is in I decided I needed to get some power to it. So I decided to refit the battery in the boot. I've
  7. Off to build starlet for japfest 2

  8. You are mainly looking for a difference In pressure across all four cylinders. A pressure difference of 1 bar between the highest reading and the lowest reading would be your maximum. (Around 15psi) any more than that and it would be definite rebuild time. As Matt has said 140psi across all four is not bad with it being even. But you may find sooner or later you will have excessive blow by and need a rebuild. Healthy engines see around the 180psi mark.
  9. Yes there are two mounting points for horns under the headlights. The wire going to them should be green with a red trace iirc. Some horns need a separate earth for them to work (2 spade terminals) and others just earth through the mounting bolt.
  10. I think the cage will sit low enough to clear the buttons. But without trying it it's hard to say.
  11. Could also be a blocked baffle plate in the rocker cover.
  12. I would have said panhard rod. I'm guessing it's a non turbo UK car? The stub axles are bolted onto the main axle on UK cars. Check the bolts in there for tightness. Besides that the tube inside the channel of the axle can fail (like morgey said) apart from that you should have no movement?
  13. It should be printed on the cable the size of it.awg is an American measurement if I can remember right. Stands for amp width gauge.
  14. Possible heat soak? Heat is a major killer of power and engines 😕
  15. Some 0 gauge or 2 gauge wire will be fine. Find a decent place to locate an earth in the boot and you will have no problems. Don't forget to make a bigger earth from the engine to the chassis as the cable will have gone from the negative on the original battery setup. I've got a kill switch in the car with 20 amp fuse bypassing it for the alarm. If you go to a auto electrical component suppliers and ask for 175 amp cable that will also be sufficient.
  16. Hey guys and girls. Small update for you. Been a little busy this time. The engine is now bolted in place with the shafts in and new gearbox oil. I've re wired half of the bay and removed a lot of dead wiring. Also I've bought a three gauge pod for the dash (universal) that I've had to cut and shape to make it fit properly. I've now fitted my wings (thanks charl 😍) and fitted an egt sensor to my exhaust manifold. Loads still to do but at the moment I'm happy with the progress. More to come! That's all for now folks. Hopefully a bigger update next time as il be finis
  17. Some old mopeds do exactly the same. It's from the coil/ht leads. Either update the leads, give the coil a decent earth or check for arcing at night with the engine running. You may see tracking on the outside of the ht leads causing the interference.
  18. Zisco make these. But the are custom order I believe. All Rose jointed and fully adjustable.
  19. I think the fuel pump relay is located near the glovebox area. Possibly above it as that's where it is on a gt. it has five wires going to it and it's dark green from memory. As for the "switch" for it, it's signal comes from the ecu. "FC" on connector number 2 becomes an earth when the ecu detects a cranking signal from the distributor pick up. Another thing to check is the earth point on the inlet manifold that goes to the idle control valve. This is one of the main earths for the ecu and could play a part in the starting issue.
  20. Shit the bed! Get well soon jay! Metal can be replaced. There's bound to be a shell coming up for sale at some point 👍🏻
  21. Throttle bodies needed 😋 Nice write up though! In next to no time you will be servicing, changing brakes and then removing engines! That's how charl started, now I only need to help with fiddly bits! Good work!
  22. Il grab a pic of mine when I go to my lock up later on. But basically I used a circuit that my car doesn't use (abs for example) then used the power from the fuse box (in engine bay) and ran a wire into the car for power.
  23. Make sure you have a good earth. Also taking power from the back of the radio is not ideal as the radio can interfere with the supply to the wideband. You would be better off taking power from the fuse box if possible.
  24. I know, but the injectors will fire at a different time in relation to the valves. The whole point of bridging the ports in the diagnostic port is to obviously lock the ignition timing. In doing this it also gives you a reference point to set the point of injection. If the engine had separate crank and cam sensors separate to the distributor it would be fine. But because it is in itself a sensor, positioning it wrong will effectively give an incorrect reading. This incorrect reading can have a knock on effect to the Ecu. Better off with a piggyback that way ignition timing can be altered ele
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