Flaminsam

The Ecu gets its reference point from the distributor. This provides reference for tdc and when to inject fuel. The pick up is mounted to the distributor body. The part which you turn when adjusting ignition timing. The induction part is mounted to the part that is driven by the cam. Moving the distributor will adjust the reference point for injection. For example, if the injection point is say 10 degrees after tdc (for example not a fact) it is now going to be 12 degrees after tdc. If you go the other way it will be 8 degrees after tdc. So the length of time the injector fires will be the s

The problem you have is if you retard the ignition timing on the distributor you are also changing the injection timing. The Ecu gets its signal for injection timing from the distributor too.

Yea it needs doing really lew, want to get the engine in really. Plenty of time for polishing later ;)

Another small update, I've finally got the engine out of the old shell so I can now think about repairing leaks and re sealing the sump etc. I've also fitted a couple of the engine/gearbox mounts to the new shell in preparation for the engine to be mounted up. I've also been going polybush crazy! I've already stripped and resprayed the front wishbones so while I had them off I thought why not! They are superpro polybushes and they fit amazingly well and are pretty simple to do. 😄 Then for the last piece I decided to respray the anti roll bar and fit poly bushes. Just

Butter tubs pass North Yorkshire?

Do you mean you want to set your timing to 12 degrees or to 8? The only way to do that accurately is to use a timing light with an advance or retard option.

I can't believe no one has suggested getting a wideband lambda fitted. It allows you to see what the fuelling is doing. Without it you could be running seriously lean on boost and kill your engine. Me personally, fuel pump, fuel pressure reg, front mount or upgraded top mount. Exhaust manifold wise I would go mild steel with external wastegate. Reason for mild steel is that it doesn't expand the same as stainless. Stainless expands at 10% of its size when hot. So a 10mm length will expand 1mm but a 100mm length with expand 10mm. Just opens the drama of cracked manifolds unless they a built p

Pretty easy to do but don't think there is a guide. Get engine to normal operating temp, turn off and bridge out e1 and te1 in the diagnostic socket. This locks your timing to allow you to set base timing. Locate notch on bottom pulley and mark with a little white paint marker or tipexx. Find the 10 and 0 degrees marker on the lower timing belt cover. Mark these also. Start engine and use timing light to align the marks with 10 degrees. You will have to slacken the two 12mm bolts on the distributor to allow it to turn. When the mark is aligned with the 10 degree mark tighten one of the bolt

Just need to remove the wiring from the top. Leave pipes connected as they are undone from just above where the axle bolts on (passenger side). You can remove the fuel by removing the fuel pipe to the fuel rail and bridging out b+ and fp in the diagnostic socket. (Do this before removing electrics) you will need to remove the exhaust back box then remove the three pipe connections on the passenger side. (Watch for small amounts of fuel in these pipes) lastly support the tank and remove 4 14mm bolts then lower. Replacing is the opposite. Pretty simple to do.

We would need a low loader rich! A little progress update for you Done a few bits to the new shell recently, mainly the small jobs that need doing (those are the worst) also bought a few little bits for the shell. I've shot blasted and painted my lower arms, now awaiting new bushes. I've got a blue domo for my brake reservoir which just adds a little to the bay. I've fitted my boost solenoid in preparation for the engine. I've painted the lower braces for the rear engine mount. Bought a new steering wheel from kode. Got the brakes fitted (just need bleeding up now). Besides that just a few

I run d2's and try are a really harsh ride. Thing is mine is stripped out so the spring rates are too high now. Charl runs d2's on her advance and it rides 100% better than mine ever has. Hers still has full interior etc.

Yup it's a 27mm. Big adjustable spanner does the trick

Job for tomorrow, remove box and investigate noise.

A decent set of six sided sockets goes a long way when removing the camshaft bolts. Can pick up a set from machine mart for a few quid. The bottom pulley can be a bit of a pain sometimes. Like Charl said a decent puller with two mate bolts on the two opposing holes will do the trick. That's how we remove stubborn bottom pulleys.

Looking good! 😉 officially I haven't really helped you too much with this either. I've been away for pretty much your entire build! Proud! 😍

So a little more has happened this weekend, charl painted my idworks wide wings and I finally got a few more parts off my old shell. Should have the engine/box and a few other parts off soon so I can repair leaks etc before the engine goes back into the new shell. Enough talk, more pics! That's all for now, hopefully have a bigger update next weekend when the engine, cage and seats will possibly be removed from the old shell. 😋

Here you go.

Realistically it takes probably about 2 hours from start to engine out if you have done it a few times. I agree, take the engine out from underneath the car. Makes life so much easier.

Il get you a picture at weekend if that's ok? I'm away on a course at the moment so can't take a pic.

I have a washer bottle from an abs ep82 which sits in the wheel arch on the passenger side if that's any good to you? As for the wiring can't help you with that one. Could just extend the wires so they reach the other side? Same as the pipes?

It's to do with the radiator. The condensor on the front may transfer heat to the radiator and if the engine is overheating the air con will cut out allowing the ram air to cool the radiator. Due to the condensor being in front of the radiator the ram air effectively warms the air going through the condensor and can't cool the radiator effectively.

Set fire to charl's car once when we found an un expected fuel leak, that and fitted the coolant lines to the throttle body wrong too, filled her engine with coolant lol. Sorry charl

1 is gt coolant temp sensor for ecu. 2 is coolant temp sensor for air con/hvac. 3 is glanza Coolant temp sensor incorporating ecu and dashboard. 4 is fan switch for gt/glanza located back of thermostat housing. 5 is idle control for 4efe or choke if you like. 6 is the same as 1 7 is same as 4 (possible different temp fan switch?) 8 is same as 2 9 is gt coolant temp sensor for dash. You can also get blanks for sensors 2/8 if they didn't come with a/c as standard. Hope that helps.

You can remove alsorts from the bay. Just depends on how far you are willing to go. The carbon canister is linked to the fuel tank as after 1991 (I think) it was illegal to vent vapour from the fuel tank/engine so it had to be burnt off through the inlet or sent through a charcoal canister. You can strip the loom back loads. Things like air con, abs and some other associated wiring can be removed if you like. This means stripping a load of wires from the loom though and if your not confident I wouldn't advise doing it. That's only some of the wiring that can be removed.