JayJ

A few days before Christmas I saw the "master cylinder to slave cylinder line" in HEL catalog and asked them to add it on their website, so I can order it. They even confirmed that it will replace the whole clutch line. Item arrived last week, but it only replaces the last hard line, so I sent them an email, as I wanted to return the item and get a refund as the product wasn't as described. I also added the same picture as Ollie, so they can see how the line really goes. They haven't replied to me yet, so maybe I should sent another mail. Sh*t company.

Check out a cool KP project, if you haven't seen it yet http://www.vhtracing.com/Poitsu/

It's a good thing that you are not losing the pressure, could be the switch or wiring problem. Switch looks like this and is located here, under the slave cylinder

1.5 - 2bar on idle depending on used oil, temp, engine wear etc.

Your housing is cracked left side of the WG port

The battery only does two things really. It has the voltage and amps to let the starter work and turn over engine, then it stores up voltage/amps for the next time power is needed when engine ain't running. The alternator puts out power for all of your elec parts and charges the battery. Higher Ah rating gives you possibility to run the sound system etc. for longer time without engine running, but if you go with a too high Ah rating, alternator might not be able to charge the battery enough and it can kill the battery faster.

There's not much to shoot as the white car has turned to dull grey thanks to road salt Some of the pics seem to be broken, so maybe I should move all the pics to another place and fix this thread, argh

If you want a upgrade I would look into Optima batteries, ie. they have a model with 75ah/975cca. I'm running 16ah race battery with 170cca daily all year round and haven't had any problems, so your current spec should be ok too.

Have anyone found these for sale?

Thanks Jean, you should get another GT! And I can confirm the device is fully working and daily used :-]

Just send it tracked in case something goes wrong and always pay the fees when buying. I have bought almost every part I have needed from this forum/traders, so thanks for sending abroad . I have also sold some parts (JAM ecu, Blitz K1 etc.) to UK/Ireland and never had a single problem. :-)

2"

I'm running with this system daily :-)

JAM ecu's daughterboard runs the whole show. The data on the EPROM is encrypted and a chip on the other side of the daughterboard decrypts it before passing it to the processor. Tectom seems to be the only non-factory thing capable of reading the Toyota factory ECU, but they no longer make such a system due to pressure from Toyota. The whole post I made recently can be found here

Haha, you haven't experienced Finnish summer.. which is short and mostly no snow

JAM fmic is stock rad and A/C friendly, also short route piping. Finding one is another story ;-) Whitestar has also stock rad and A/C, he's running Ebay kit IIRC.

SOLD

Pointless? Based on what? And I only accept a fact as an answer :-)

Personally I would choose Yokos by the reviews :-)

Item For Sale: TRD clip type leads for EP91 Item Condition & Description: Used, good condition Price: 60£ including postage + fees Pictures: Payment & Shipping Details: Paypal, tracked shipping

Don't go with t1r's. I have them and yeah they are pretty good, but the whole tyre design is old and there are better ones available Or if it's just a price tag thing, then maybe you could go with them

Forged, 176000km, 5w30 Red Line Ester oil edit: didn't notice this was n/a section, I'm running turbo

Damn John! Now I want to own Caterham one day ..and keep the *let : )

My oil temp problems were solved when I connected water lines. Water cooled turbos

PM'd