JayJ

More goods arrived! :-) Of course radio, heater control lights and dials must color match! I also tried to adjust the idle RPMs today. I did shortcircuit TE1 and E1 from diagnostic plug and then adjusted the idle screw. Idle dropped just below 1000, but after a few seconds the idle went up to 1000-1100. I have JAM ecu, so will it readjust idle by itself? The idle screw is now turned totally in, so I can't adjust it anymore. Should I look for a small leak?

PM'd :-)

The weather was also as bad as it is usually at the Headquarters ;-))

From Idrees / ID-Workz, 130 or something delivered, so good price ;-)

So I went to pick up the car after work and the first thing I tried was the reverse gear and it was completely silent! Clutch is now ten times better and easier to drive in traffic. So happy to have this problem solved finally. :-) Workshop guy also told, that the old friction plate was damaged and flywheel - clutch assy aligment pins were cut off, apparently by earlier owner Oh yeah and postman was here too! ;-)

I have now picked up my car from the workshop and reverse is silent, I don't know why mechanic told on phone that the reverse is crunching. And yes as StuDoc said, other gears are syncro'd so they will work fine even if there is a little movement in box, but reverse will remind you of it immediately. 1. Complete clutch was changed, friction plate and pressure plate both brand new. 2. Clutch biting point was changing randomly and then clutch stopped disengaging completely, so I though that the cylinders weren't working properly. At this point I'm almost 100% sure, that changing the cylinders were wasted time and money. 3. My car stood still 1½ months, while I tried to solve my clutch problem and was waiting the parts to arrive. So I decided to order the fork just to be sure, that all the parts are available when box is taken out. I knew that the fork was unlikely to be the problem, but I didn't want to take that risk and wait another two weeks, if it was broken for some reason :-) So let's see if it starts crunching, but so far so good

Sorry, forgot to mention that pedal adjustment is done

I tried a search, but couldn't find anything special about this issue. So, I have changed master and slave cylinders two weeks ago and workshop has installed a new clutch assy(Helix organic) with new fork(genuine Toyota part) and release bearing today. All the other gears work fine(because they are syncronised), but reverse crunches(because it isn't syncronised) now. I have seen a thread/post about changing a longer slave cylinder rod or using a bushing, but couldn't find it again. Could the reason for crunch be that the slave cylinder won't move the fork enough to get the clutch disengage fully? If I change a longer rod, how long it should be? Like 0.5cm longer or is that too much? Or will this even solve the problem? Reverse was working silently before the car broke down. Any comments/suggestions are welcome :-)

Is that tegiwa bmcs? I have one too waiting for install. :-)

I got a phone call this morning from the workshop and my car is now ready for pick up. They changed the clutch assy and adjusted the pedal, but mechanic said that reverse gear crunches. He thought that the issue might be the slave cylinder not pushing the fork enough to get the clutch disengage fully. I have changed the slave and master cylinders before workshop got the car, so could the rod be too short and cause reverse crunch? I understood that other gears work fine. Any idea where I can get a longer rod or somekind of bushing to get the fork move more?

I have had problems with clutch since I bought the car and it has been difficult to select gears every now and then. After owning the car one week I adjusted the pedal and it seemed to sort out the problem back then. Anyway, two months ago the biting point started to change randomly and sometimes gears were difficult to select too. I adjusted the pedal again, changed fluids and bleed the system and everything seemed to work again. Two weeks went and I was driving back to home when the gears started struggling again and clutch didn't disengage at all, so something was obviously broken. I have changed the master and slave cylinders, but it didn't help and the car has been standing still 1½months now. Happily I got these on friday and I'm going to deliver the parts to workshop on monday morning, so the car might be running again next week. I ended up choosing an organic fast road kit, because the car is in a "daily" use. I also bought a new fork just for sure to get the car running without fail. It will be much easier to drive in traffic than the old on/off sintered clutch and no more juddering starts. New kit is also rated for 240nm, so it should handle the current setup easily :-)

Maybe it's time to get some info up finally. Don't expect this to be a big power built thread, but more likely a documentation of what have been/will be done. :-) I bought this 96 spec Glanza V just over a year ago from a private seller. The car has been imported 2010 from Japan and basicly all the mods were done there too. SPECS UPDATED 04.02.14 Mileage 181000km Engine JAM Racing forged engine RW-developments race spec rocker cover with catch tank Zisco mildsteel manifold Tongs GT spec hybrid Blitz decat Ultra red ignition leads SARD fpr HKS adjustable actuator HKS mushroom air filter kit - relocated behind the passenger headlamp HKS Hi-Power Silent exhaust with hi flow cat Emanage Ultimate Cooling JAM Racing FMIC with JAM pipework, custom Zisco hot pipe Civic rad with 1.1bar cap and slim fan Water + Redline water wetter TRD 71c thermo JD Tuning cooling panel Drivetrain Helix organic fast road clutch and lightweight flywheel Chassis D2 coilovers ZEP Racing Adjustable 3 point rear strut brace C-pillar brace Grooved front discs Mintex pads RG braided brake lines Tegiva BMCS Rota HM3's with Toyo T1R 195/50/15" Others Depo 60mm 4in1 boost, oil press, oil temp and voltage gauge AEM uego AFR gauge Indiglow dials Earth X lithium battery relocated in boot Eurospec headlights - we have LHD traffic Defa block heater for winter use Mitsuba Alpha II horns Räzo carbon gear knob Car came with Rota GT3's, the scoop and interior were stickerbombed, bumper's cut for fmic is soooo ugly too :-G Current look

Are you guys sure the master cylinder is working? I might be wrong, but I think that clutch assy shouldn't affect the bleeding.

As Flamingsam said, get someone to help you. It's (almost) impossible to bleed the clutch by yourself.

Where's the video?! :-)

I have been looking at their gen 2 kit with mani and decat and might be interested to buy one in a near future. Anyone has any up-to-date feedback? I know everyone is going BIG and recommends td04 atleast, BUT..

Vote for this and one more link http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/info/Pid=3646J.html

Don't know if this has been mentioned already, but quite rare? http://www.bidjdm.com/bidding/auction/view/id/f89991953

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?27569-4EFTE-Torque-Specs />http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?59417-4EFTE-Torque-Settings-Needed There you go :-)

Where is this JDM auction page and how the hell you understand Japanese ;-D

Good move guys! I'm missing some fresh PM's, are those gone for good?

"The best" is hard to define, since there are so many oils and it really depends on where and how you use the box. Although I say RED LINE 75W90 hypoid gear oil would be good enough for daily/drag/circuit ;)

Someone using Helix organic fast road clutch? I need to buy a new clutch asap, but don't really know what to choose. I would like to buy Blitz, but it's quite expensive and is it aggressive too? I use my car daily, so I don't want any overkill clutch. What you recommend? Running ct9 1bar with JAM ecu atm.

Those are indiglow dials, I think id-workz is one of the sellers

Master and slave cylinder changed and system bled, but still can't select any gear. Gears work when car isn't running. Fork or clutch assy broken? :-(