JayJ
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Everything posted by JayJ
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You guys are lucky with your mot rules over there, if compared to our rules. Basicly all mods are illegal, if you have a turbo car in here. But here's some info how it's done in Japan
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JVC kw-xr811
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I don't know what to say, but I just read this: http://www.todoroki-trading.com/stock/toyota/076-Starlet/GlanzaV-EP91.html And what makes me speechless is that is my car, with JAM Racing engine! Thanks to Whitestar for finding this out!
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More goods arrived! :-) Of course radio, heater control lights and dials must color match! I also tried to adjust the idle RPMs today. I did shortcircuit TE1 and E1 from diagnostic plug and then adjusted the idle screw. Idle dropped just below 1000, but after a few seconds the idle went up to 1000-1100. I have JAM ecu, so will it readjust idle by itself? The idle screw is now turned totally in, so I can't adjust it anymore. Should I look for a small leak?
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PM'd :-) -
The weather was also as bad as it is usually at the Headquarters ;-))
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From Idrees / ID-Workz, 130 or something delivered, so good price ;-)
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So I went to pick up the car after work and the first thing I tried was the reverse gear and it was completely silent! Clutch is now ten times better and easier to drive in traffic. So happy to have this problem solved finally. :-) Workshop guy also told, that the old friction plate was damaged and flywheel - clutch assy aligment pins were cut off, apparently by earlier owner Oh yeah and postman was here too! ;-)
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I have now picked up my car from the workshop and reverse is silent, I don't know why mechanic told on phone that the reverse is crunching. And yes as StuDoc said, other gears are syncro'd so they will work fine even if there is a little movement in box, but reverse will remind you of it immediately. 1. Complete clutch was changed, friction plate and pressure plate both brand new. 2. Clutch biting point was changing randomly and then clutch stopped disengaging completely, so I though that the cylinders weren't working properly. At this point I'm almost 100% sure, that changing the cylinders
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Sorry, forgot to mention that pedal adjustment is done
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I tried a search, but couldn't find anything special about this issue. So, I have changed master and slave cylinders two weeks ago and workshop has installed a new clutch assy(Helix organic) with new fork(genuine Toyota part) and release bearing today. All the other gears work fine(because they are syncronised), but reverse crunches(because it isn't syncronised) now. I have seen a thread/post about changing a longer slave cylinder rod or using a bushing, but couldn't find it again. Could the reason for crunch be that the slave cylinder won't move the fork enough to get the clutch disengage f
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Is that tegiwa bmcs? I have one too waiting for install. :-)
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I got a phone call this morning from the workshop and my car is now ready for pick up. They changed the clutch assy and adjusted the pedal, but mechanic said that reverse gear crunches. He thought that the issue might be the slave cylinder not pushing the fork enough to get the clutch disengage fully. I have changed the slave and master cylinders before workshop got the car, so could the rod be too short and cause reverse crunch? I understood that other gears work fine. Any idea where I can get a longer rod or somekind of bushing to get the fork move more?
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I have had problems with clutch since I bought the car and it has been difficult to select gears every now and then. After owning the car one week I adjusted the pedal and it seemed to sort out the problem back then. Anyway, two months ago the biting point started to change randomly and sometimes gears were difficult to select too. I adjusted the pedal again, changed fluids and bleed the system and everything seemed to work again. Two weeks went and I was driving back to home when the gears started struggling again and clutch didn't disengage at all, so something was obviously broken. I hav
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Maybe it's time to get some info up finally. Don't expect this to be a big power built thread, but more likely a documentation of what have been/will be done. :-) I bought this 96 spec Glanza V just over a year ago from a private seller. The car has been imported 2010 from Japan and basicly all the mods were done there too. SPECS UPDATED 04.02.14 Mileage 181000km Engine JAM Racing forged engine RW-developments race spec rocker cover with catch tank Zisco mildsteel manifold Tongs GT spec hybrid Blitz decat Ultra red ignition leads SARD fpr HKS adjustable actuator HKS mushroom air filter
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Are you guys sure the master cylinder is working? I might be wrong, but I think that clutch assy shouldn't affect the bleeding.
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As Flamingsam said, get someone to help you. It's (almost) impossible to bleed the clutch by yourself.
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Where's the video?! :-)
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I have been looking at their gen 2 kit with mani and decat and might be interested to buy one in a near future. Anyone has any up-to-date feedback? I know everyone is going BIG and recommends td04 atleast, BUT..
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Vote for this and one more link http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/info/Pid=3646J.html
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Don't know if this has been mentioned already, but quite rare? http://www.bidjdm.com/bidding/auction/view/id/f89991953
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http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?27569-4EFTE-Torque-Specs />http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?59417-4EFTE-Torque-Settings-Needed There you go :-)
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Where is this JDM auction page and how the hell you understand Japanese ;-D
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Good move guys! I'm missing some fresh PM's, are those gone for good?
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"The best" is hard to define, since there are so many oils and it really depends on where and how you use the box. Although I say RED LINE 75W90 hypoid gear oil would be good enough for daily/drag/circuit ;)