morgey

With the 3 they can all do 1080p at 60fps. Black does 30fps with 12MP stills if you ever need it. Silver is 10fps 10MP stills

Lol prettt stuffed! Sounds like it could be bent selector arms or something from the sounds of that. It might be worth having it looked at and if that is the case you could look at getting steel selector arms made as an upgrade? However It might not be that but worth an inspection.

You are asking an aweful lot from a stock box tbh. What actually failed on it?

Nice way for the government to get more money from ya. Either you loose a chunk of money from selling it mid month and the person buying it only gets 11 and a bit months worth of tax. Why with today's technology can't car tax go for 12 months from the day it's purchased? Or you take it off the road just before a months up and then you can't test drive it. Fucking nice one...

My problem is I kinda like my job. It's very relaxed I can get away with being late and bumming about a fair bit and have a laugh with the managers etc it's progressing slowly, the whole place is improving slowly. But that's also the problem with my pay, that's also increasing very slowly, as is my training. If i were to go somewhere which paid what I would like my work output would have to reflect that which is why atm I'm staying put, as im incredibly lazy for the most part!

Yeah. Check the gopro site for the differences between the silver white and black. You might not think you need the top spec one tbh .

Sorry meant squeaking and instead of solid I meant blank. Was advised with my kit that if they squeaked I could groove my discs.

You might have problems with them squeezing on solid discs, Mine are a nightmare, other than that should be a great setup. Very similar to the Wms kit

The hero 3 + black is the top dog but also the most expensive.

Really want to have a go at doing that. However there isn't anything that I really want to do haha

Be good for people sitting up the strip at Santa pod. But being black it will also absorb heat as well as radiate it. So could have an adverse effect sitting in a hot engine bay. Also needs to be kept out of direct sunlight to maximise it's worth

Would be more throttle response as boost can build up much closer to the combustion chamber filling the plenum off throttle rather than having it under direct vacuum. Tbh I doubt there'd be huge gains on a turbo'd car. But if you've got the no how and the equipment then go for it. Getting a good map signal could also be a problem, You would want a vacuum chamber and a pulse dampener. I would have thought

341 Sr's left on the road last time I checked. They were rare to start with though not that anyone seems to realise that.

As do skylines. It's doable. Blitz to a turbo kit for the 20v's with a chamber for the Itb's otherwise you'd need a custom one. You'd also need an adaptor plate to go from the bodies to the 4e head obviously.

It's the fact that it's still trying to spin forward. The exhaust side is still trying to spin it forward but the throttle being shut of with no pressure release is trying to stop the compressor side to release the compressed air. You've got a relatively small bar with 2 opposite forces acting upon them in a manner it's not designed for. Thinking about it surely it would be stalling the exhaust gasses from leaving the engine too? That could also have negative effects on the engine?

No I'm the guy with the 20v starlet. We've spoke on facebook when he posted a pic of your 2 cars.

Theres not that many wires that need wiring in. Starter signal and power Fuel pump Oil pressure switch. Rev's The engine loom along with the ecu can all be put in place. The there's some obvious ones into the bay fuse box that you can do yourself. Some others but it's just trial and error with a multimeter and labelling what you need and where they go. Plugs can be re pinned to keep it neat the rest you can do with chocolate blocks to test until it works then once you're happy solder it up. Just have a few spare fuses as it doesn't always work so need to fire some new ones in until you figure it out

You're Andrew with the corolla's mate right? Welcome along you should find most the info you need from members on here. Fogs shouldn't be too bad. Find a power supply from headlights or sidelights (worst case off the battery with an external fuse), run the earth into the cabin, put it to a switch then to ground. That's how I would probably go about it.

Unlucky. Not many n/A's had them tbh. Any scrappy with an ep should have what you're looking for

Maybe, but pretty sure they only did 2 kinds of brakes for rollas. 256 single or 272 twinpots. Maybe I was just being a retard Either way if you can get these to fit they run a 22mm thick disc which is a huge improvement over the 18 mm glanza discs

i was on about the singles. im sure i tried a set of ae92 gti 256mm brakes and dont think they lined up. they were the same as my 01 ae111 (zze111)

They are the same as any uk spec corolla between 89 and 01. Not even sure if they bolt up as im sure I've tried on mine.

Should be fine. I'm using a ae111 levin one in mine

Ebay toyota mat clip. Will only fit with genuine toyota floor mats

It's originally a c56 from a 98 spec glanza. It will fit any 4efte powered car fine.