jiggaman_16

lower cambelt cover would be either crank seal, oil pump seals or maybe the cam plug leakig from up top......i had a heck of a time with my o-ring on the rear of the oil pump

Thats some sweet CT9 power right there son

theyre nice for a temporary run-around

i like it

soooooooo.....we should have updates my 12:00 pm Monday then......Jus kiddin...hope all goes well

lets see wat the new one looks like......

Patiently waiting with bated breath........

lovin that bay

Is that intercooler a different one from the one seen on the car in the pictures above on this page? What is the thickness of that intercooler core shown in the last pic?

sweet, get on with the rest of the mods

Did a little troubleshooting today & think i found out y the engine hunts sometime....to the point of shutting off. Thats why i stick to my claim that a FPR with gauge is a very good thing to have....i was speculating whether the problem was fuel related & so i checked the gauge wen it started occuring (at idle, sometimes the engine RPMS fall & rise steadily & also when coasting down at low RPMS, sometimesto the point of shut off.....no its not a vaccuum problem). The gauge shows 2.2 Bar dropping to below 2 on the lower part of the loping idle....... This means that the supply of fuel itself is unsteady cuz if it was engine or ECU related, the fuel pressure would be steady as the battery voltage is constant ( even on the low part of the bad idle, the fuel pump supply is still at least 12VDC since the battery is being charged (as there is good charging voltage 14.3 VDC). This led me to check the supply voltage at the pump. Since the car originally had a carbeurated engine (4EF), there was no fuel pump power supply wire so this had to be run since the new tank had an electric pump. A wire was run but now that i look more closely, it is a bit small to be running a pump for long periods of time (sometimes hours...) A check at the pump with just ignition on revealed 10.xxx VDC......... . I then started the car & behold, 11.8 VDC at the pump. I rechecked the battery, 14.3 VDC, rechecked the relay, 13.4 VDC, then back at the pump: 11.8 VDC Think i found my problem..... Will run a single heavier gauge wire tomorrow to see if problem is solved.......should be though

yup. realized that after a while....jus didnt get around to switchin them around......They're off now anyway, a set of Tein S-Tech lowering springs are on now....much softer in the corners (which gives a ton of bodyroll ) than i expected though although the reviews basically said the same thing.

thats what i'm plannin on bro....

Lol

sweet

Gonna pull the engine in a week or so. Tired of 5efe pistons nw. Broke ringlands on the original ones & almost sure the same thing happenin nw on a shaved set. Thats y i'm seekin a set of 4efte pistons for a rebuild. Anybody know what the resultant CR will be with a set of 4efte pistons on 5e rods in a 5efe engine?

Finally done & fitted

Nice progress bro..... 1) notice your turbo sits forward more than the Honda K-series normal turbo position (further back to the firewall)....Any particular reason for this? (Not sayin it should be further back, just askin.......) 2) Is the turbo / manifold supported underneath (weight / overhang consideration)? 3) U plannin on runnin anything to replace the slam panel / upper radiator support?

i like it. Nice subtle touches.

soinstead of constantly borrowing a Greddy Support Tool cable to access the E-Manage, i decided to make my own. According to this tutorial http://www.migee.com/2010/05/06/diy-greddy-emanage-cable-from-scratch/, it's just a few simple steps. I purchased the convertor from E-Bay, fabbed up the harness & will soon get to testing it. The re-done intake pipe is now cmpleted with threaded ports for the IAT sensor & the Water/Meth injection nozzle. Installed & car has been driven. The three point strut brace is complete. Just need to drive the car with it for day or 2 before i give it a coat of paint. Made a false floor for the trunk as the OEM one had seen much better days. The Meth/Water tank,pump & filter mounting stand (or bracket) is complete. Painted & installed. The nylon tubing & the electrical wiring has been run, just need to get the controller in hand to install it. Finally found the Apexi turbo timer that was hidin underneath some crap. Will soon get around to wirin that in. dry testing the Meth system http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v605/jiggaman_160/20150304_143036_zps8dsyeeug.mp4 everything installed except the controller....gonna remove the front strut brace & spray it........considering white...may regret it but gonna do it rear strut brace is to be removed & cleaned off then sprayed as well Car now starts to miss at about 7 psi....AFR looks good at that point...... [help] the wire splicing (connections) for the distributor, coil pack & ignitor were soldered & heat shrink-wrapped so wonderin if i mixed up something at that point...... fuel pressure good at idle & rev..... Wrapped EP82 seats are complete by the upholstery man (although i got screwed for the second time with the same pair of seats [help] [help] [help])

If there's one reason i check in on UKSO daily, it's this. What size will the intercooler piping be? The cold side seems pretty big. Errthing just flows. Epic bro, just..............epic.

Excellent matey

Nothing?

sheeeeeeeeeeet

yeah, would love to know