Stu

The water temp sensor for the ecu is separate to the water temp sensor for the dash gauge. So, if your sure its over fueling because its cold, its may be that it is actually cold. Check the thermostat is in - if it is there possibly its a low temp one?

Ok update on this, as I thought the waste gate port size was the culprit and after the porting the car is now holding boost properly. Its quite amusing that Speedvision suggested a boost controller or restricting the exhaust would solve the problem. If the waste gate flap wired full open with no actuator results in boost cut still being hit then no boost controller would have helped, and restricting the exhaust is counter intuitive. Good little turbo but below average experience with dealing with them. If the guage is to be believe with no boost control the actuator holds approx 6-7psi

Oh, another thing to remember is the knock sensors do actually work so consider things like the octane of the fuel your running, the boost level, base timing and the possible air intake temps. All of those have considerable effect on inducing knock

I've fixed alot of these and from my experience the causes are: (in order of likelihood) 1- Break in wire or damaged wire causing no connectivity or abnormal resistance readings from end to end 2- (Related to the repair of above) Incorrectly joined shielding around the signal wire. Either earth shield connected at the knock sensor end (it shouldn't be) Or the earth shield not rejoined from break point (usually by injectors) and the wire picking up inductive electrical noise (alternator etc) 3 - Knock sensor plug wire end terminal not clamping the knock sensor terminal

Don't take no for an answer

I've taken the turbo off again to day and checked the wastegate port size. Factory is roughly 21.8mm and theirs is 23.5mm. The wastegate flap is 27.25mm so I have ported the housing out to 25.5mm and also shaped the port entry inside the housing (an old trick I used to do all the time years ago). Took it for a drive with the actuator off and it doesn't get any boost now which is a good sign. Rain and beer stopped play for the day. Will update tomorrow once the actuator is back on.

Direct from speedvision

The feed comes from the thermostat housing and the exit returns to the water pump feed hard line under the inlet.

Well this is all fitted and the turbo does feel pretty strong and is a step up over the stock unit, however even with the actuator completely removed and the wastegate wired fully open the engine sees boost cut before redline is achieved. The setup is an aftermarket stock location manifold, speedvisionCP turbo, 2inch down pipe, HKS exhaust, stock ecu, no form of boost control (un-touched line from turbo cover to the actuator when it was fitted). It seems pretty obvious the "ported" wastegate is not big enough. Has anyone else had this issue?

MR2's come with an electric power steer setup - you just need to make sure you run the controller too else it will be way to light and you wont get any feel. They draw quite a bit of current though so you may need to swap to a larger alternator.

Any other good tuners around your area? Just shop around if you can. $1400 doesn't seem bad if its installed and dyno tuned.

Ah right - yuck

I don't know anything about those piggy back ecu's but it could be that the injector drives are run thru it and that it has inbuilt resistors? Conventionally the resistors are wired into the 12v feed side but I've come across a few where they were fitted to the injector drive side. You could measure the resistance of the wiring between the injector and the ecu? That would confirm if they are in the loom at all. Bit trickier to test the 12v feed side, you would have to check from the feed point into the loom.

Ah, that makes more sense, still intrigued to take a look at the thing if someone can post a link to page on it?

I've literally just fitted one to a mates Glanza and will hopefully be taking it for a drive today or tomorrow, just finished making the decat drop pipe then will be putting it back together.

I'm intrigued, what is this device? Can you post up a Link? Genuinely interested in finding out how they work I've run antilag on heaps of 4e's over the years with no issues but its all been from the aftermarket ecu and not a piggy back device.

If the resistors are there and you are going back to high impedance injectors then just take the resistors out and rejoin the wires. They should be wired to the 12v feed side of the injector circuit. What ecu are you currently running? Blitz Access? Or changing to that? If its the stock ecu currently then there will definitely be some resistors stashed somewhere.

You can use low impedance injectors but you will need to wire in ballast resistors on a heat sink. Usually a 25w or 50w 4R7 per injection channel will do the job.

Link G4 Atom would be a great option - but really you need to talk to who ever will tune it and find something they are comfortable with.

^ this. First thing I'd do is check the voltage across the rev range to make sure its not spiking. Good luck!

You will probably find that as long as the oxygen sensor is operational that the current ecu is fine so you wont need to touch anything. An old Turbo S I had ran a 5efhte with a VF8/CT9 Hybrid turbo (among other mods) on a factory 2et ecu without any issues at all. It went ever so slightly lean as the boost came on (very early) but actually dropped into the mid 11 afr's at peak load/rpm. Base timing was set at the standard 10 degrees and I ran 95 octane fuel. For you car I would recommend swapping the rear muffler and then getting a wideband on it just to see whats going on. If you

What ecu are you using? Also use a multimeter and just double check they are low impedance. Have a look at the loom for any modified sections which may give you an indication of where they are. Possibly they are inside the car near the ecu. In theory yes you can run high impedance injectors but its better to determine how its setup now and if possible remove the ballast resistors where ever they are.

As above, the tune is via the ecu, not the fuel reg.

It doesn't need an aftermarket fuel reg for it to be tuned. The factory reg is fine for that power ouput