Claymore

The exhaust saga continues....... The gravity decat downpipe I bought was always questionable from day 1. Lower holes to mount to centre section were a week out!: After some rage filing: Fitted to the turbo with a new Toyota gasket (part number: 17279-11010) When mounted to the turbo, the lower flange was clearly welded to the downpipe twisted anti-clockwise slightly and the top right hand corner was tilted closer to the front of the car. Built up the TD centre exhaust section, and fed the back box over the rear beam / panhard rod support a

Thanks for the info, looks a good fit. It's for an EP91 (build thread link's in my bio) Might I ask, is that a TD05? 16g?, 18g?, 20g?

Also found this: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/04/maximum_boost.pdf Its a pdf copy of Corky Bell's maximum boost book. Its a bit out of date now (the engine management section will almost be out of date at the time of print really.) and I'm certainly not recommending it as the only source of reading info on the subject, but it has some good insights and solid lessons to help understand the subject matter. The section on intercoolers is also where all the "trouble" started when comparing to other books on the matter. Still worth a read. If you're interested, the Jeff Har

Whilst I was looking at intercooler setups I spannered across this on youtube. Definitely NOT the way to mount an intercooler! Fast forward to 8:45. Thought it might give someone a giggle.

Top quality there mate. Nice to see a company producing to that level. Beautiful! 😍

Currently test fitting some 4efte injectors to an N/A rail using the N/A fuel rail posts. Its for my 4efe + turbo build. The EP91 4efe injectors use the same rubber spacers and lower rubber seals as the EP91 4efte. The injectors are the same length and the only part number differences are for the rail and the rail posts (mid -96 on). When I removed the fe injectors the lower seals were knackered so I replaced them with the used 4efte lower seals and when fitted to the head it is apparent that there was a gap between the rubber spacer and fuel rail and the injector could be pulled up

4efte oil filter relocator fitment. Needed a way of getting oil to the turbo so the Toyota solution seemed the best and at least we know it fits! Bought a nice example off socks about a year ago now I think, was one of the first parts I bought when I had barely owned the car a month. First needed to remove the 4efe oil filter banjo stud (?) I used a 12mm hex drain bit. It wouldn't fit initially so I has to round the corners off with a file then it slipped in nice. The area around the filter got a bit of a clean up to remove the corrosion outside the filter seal as the gask

Good work mate

Sump oil return fitting: Bought a Mamba bolt in oil return 19mm hose barb, M20 threaded end. (K027-0303) Centre punched the hole position to be drilled. Using a step drill I began drilling with an old aerosol cap held on the other side of the pan to catch the swarf and stop it entering the pan. Thankfully the cap was deep enough that I didn't break through and drill my fingers! Much less mess to clear up. Deburred the hole, gave the outside a quick once over with satin black and heated with a paint stripper on low to help speed up the drying process. Then assembled th

Sump turbo oil return: Needed to have a fitting in the sump to return the oil from the turbo, didn't fancy trying to find a 4efte version that wasn't dented and the matching pickup so thought I'd add on to the existing 4efe item. Started by removing all but the 2 centre bolts holding the sump to the block, Just loosened these to help "catch the sump during removal. Tapped a small flat blade screwdriver in between the parts to split them. Needed to be careful not to scratch the mounting surfaces. Repeated for rear corner. Unthreaded the pan from the oil pickup, l

Thanks mate. Yep, eBay tat is par for the course it seems. I just can't justify top money for parts for a relatively cheap / low boost build. It seems that here are no mid priced mani and downpipe combo's out there worth buying, its either top end artisan creations or utter shite from the Far east. If I can find anything decent second hand I'll replace the downpipe ASAP. The mani and turbo are spot on as Toyota parts should be. Might linish the dpipe lower flange to a better angle when the enthusiasm has returned. Sump oil return next.

Downpipe fitment / modification As usual I bought the cheapest downpipe that included a brace. It was a Gravity branded piece of shit from eBay. The turbo flange fitted ok to the turbo, the centre exhaust flange is angled slightly and also rotated slightly from where it should be and the bolt holes to mate to the centre section were very wrong! Also the brace plate was at an incorrect angle to the Toyota block brace. I knew it would need some mods but didn't think it would be this bad. So I filed out the centre section mount holes to allow fitment of the centre using M 8 bolts.

It's Turbo Tuesdaaaaaaaaay! Next up was the test fit of the turbo to work out sump oil drain position and to check the Downpipe fitment. Assembled the CT9a to the ported cast manifold with a genuine Toyota gasket (17278-11030) Fitted the downpipe support bracket to the block loosely as it would need adjusting to meet the downpipe bracket. There is quite a lot of movement available as the mounting holes are nicely over size. Cleaned up the head mating surface and the old gasket with a stanley blade (trial fitment) and bolted the turbo and manifold combo to the he

Some minor progress: treated the rust patch on the chassis that was accessible with the exhaust removed, realigned the drivers door after the new hinge I installed back in the summer had "bedded in". Also trial fitted the 4efte injectors and discovered something interesting. The EP91 4efe injectors use the same rubber spacers and lower rubber seals as the EP91 4efte. The injectors are the same length and the only part number differences are for the rail and the rail posts (mid -96 on). When I removed the fe injectors the seals were knackered so I replaced them with the used 4eft

Cheers mate. Thanks mate, I'm flattered.

4efe exhaust removal Started the process about a week ago by soaking all the fasteners in WD40 on a daily basis. Managed to loosen of all the manifold nuts, and the bolts that connect the mani to downpipe without issue (14mm socket and breaker required at the start). Was dreading this part but all came good . Left assembled for the next step. Disconnected the stock O2 sensor from underneath and pulled the rubber hangers off the exhaust mounts Unclipped the cable thingy from its post (?!). Can only assume its for breakaway safety or as a movement limiter on the

More brackets....... Made a small dog leg bracket to secure the rear of the throttle cable bracket to the manifold to head bracket. Removed the tab from the throttle cable bracket as it was in the way Using a strip of 2mm pre galvanised steel I drilled a 9mm hole for the cable sheath adjuster section and cut a slot so it can be slipped over the cable. First bend. Removed from the manifold and made the second bend. After much on and off and adjustment of the bend angles the bracket sat comfortably between the 2 mounting surfaces. Removed, then shaped t

Looking good Frankie, nice to know you have an engine on the way. Looking forward to the build thread. I'm doing fine and cracking on with my build. Hope you and your family are well.

Time to fit the 4efe throttle body onto the 4efte manifold. So with the spacer plate, 2 x gaskets and some longer screws and washers (m 8 x 45 socket cap heads) I set the throttle body up like this prior to install: Loosely assembled the bolts to the mani and then aligned the gasket / spacer combo as centrally as possible to the TB and mani before nipping the screws up. Finally I tightened them to 19Nm. Had to move the throttle cable bracket back as the inlet manifold is shorter. This makes the TB too close even if you use all the threaded adjustment in the stock fte

Plumbed in the vacuum / boost reference hose for the Det 3+. Pretty simple stuff really, started by removing the A/C grommet from the firewall and behind this I found the blanking piece in the sound deadening still in place which I removed. Added a small grommet to the large grommet (bit more support to prevent kinking). Cut the hole with scissors as the step drill was not particularly effective against rubber. Ran a 1.2m ish length of 4mm silicone vac hose from the barb fitting I installed in the manifold a while back and set the grommet(s) back in place.

Thanks mate, I used Elring Dirko again. I've been using it for the water pump also. It says it's good for water, oil and coolant etc. I've checked some more pictures I took of the disassembly and my cam cover didn't have any sealant on the top of the humps it was mainly on the join between hump and flat. There was some sealant a small way up the hump but not more than 10mm and only in 2 places. I think the picture shows "some sealant on the join area a bit up the hump and a bit on the flat also" which is what I had originally and how I sealed it this time.

Looking good mate

4efte cam cover install: With the intake manifold installed it was time to change the cam cover. I first removed the HT leads and the holder that is bolted to the cover (10mm socket). Removed the 5 x nuts and seal washers from the studs. Carefully pried the cover up with a large flat blade screwdriver at the correct points. (see below). Prepped the new cover with a replacement outer gasket from the kit I got, lubed up the internal surface of the spark plug holes with grease. Installed a fresh PCV into the new grommet I installed at rebuild time. The pry points to remove can be

4efte inlet manifold fitment: Cleaned the mating surfaces of the mani and head, noticed the mani had some light scratches to a small area of the face which should be sealed by the gasket, if not I will add some sealant to the area also. Used a new Ajusa gasket to the head as well (Part number 13143100). Also got the gaskets and spacer ready for the throttle body install, unfortunately the bolts I received were too short so I have had to return them for some longer items. The gasket can only be fitted one way round or the mounting holes won't line up, it needs the squ

Removed the existing 4efe housing after disconnecting the IACV and heater hose, was left with the sealant to clean off again, Stanley blade very carefully as I was working with an Alu surface this time. Now the rear hose to the water pump pipe was out of the way I could re-insert the pipe. I added a new O-ring to the pipe end and lubed it up with car shampoo. Aligned the end with the pump and pushed the pipe in straight, up to the stop. Bolted the bracket back onto the block (10mm socket). Re- installed the dipstick tube with a new O-ring (10mm I/D x 1.75mm cross se