Asad

Everthing is exactly the same just the flywheel/clutch are 12mm bigger....ive done this conversion on mine...with no problems to rule the slave cylinder out, apply the clutch while one of you check it fully engages....i think the friction plate was installed the wrong way round iirc one way it put it closer to the flywheel and the other way it put it further away from the flywheel.... tbh either way your going to have to split the box and re-check your work.....ball ache but its the only real way of fixing the issue

Hey ho, Found out my rear wheel bearing needed doing......tightened it up and greased it to see if it would help...the next day it just siezed up on me (overtightened probably)...ruining the little tab washer and the lock cap....i put a new bearing in with lithium grease and put it back together as a temp measure using the ruined tab washer and messed up lock cap (was rushed for time had to head back to uni)...after say 100 miles it started making noises at certain speeds 2 weeks later.... ordered a genuine lock cap and tab washer....upon opening it again the grease was all black and smelt kinda burnt....i put it back together again with some clean grease and after 70ish miles it started to make the noises again.... both times it was tightened up nicely, i wouldnt say it was wrenched the fcuk out of my question is do i clean it and repack it with bearing specific grease (which type?) ? replace the bearing? or do something else? Asad

Change it to 5-40 mate pref silkolene, on your next service No matter how often you change it, 10-40 is not good for your engine long term

Do 4-500 miles a week, sorry but you'd get the same treatment off me if i then got blinded by your HIDs id just slow down and full beam your arse till i got bored...much love

snapon cordless impact wrenchs are poo poo, a brand new fully charged 1/2" one couldnt even shift a poxy wheel nut.... we then got one similar to this: />http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/snap-on-38-impact-gun/97925238 breaks brand new bolts for funs lol

whats the revs when it gets the problem in the lower gears?

throw a vid up mate ^

replied

sure ^

ive got something similar to these if its any help />http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002GOXOEW/ref=asc_df_B002GOXOEW7417046?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B002GOXOEW

just the use a genuine toyota/honda one and youll be fine...spend your money elsewhere

ahhh right, 1 sec ill find you the correct informationss />https://home.comcast.net/~ronald_miranda/hksactuator.pdf

first things first, what actuator do you have? standard or HKS? standard cant be adjusted it has to be upgraded

it will be far far cheaper to repair the 4e you have than put one of the other lumps in.....the only real advantage the 4e has over them is its light and with the money you`d throw at fitting one of the others in you could have a potent little 4e

think you can re-position the bottom latch on the boot.....nip up the bolts/nuts and adjust as you see fit to get it to close properly it will fit 100%

lol isnt that the el-cheapo CT9 turbo mani with a modified downpipe?...could be made for £200 tops intresting to see it on a dyno

do mine later tonight, that ok?

lol bit daft by them but your up on money so hey ho.....get them back before you send the money tho its bit you in the arse before bro

the knobs will still work, if hes still anal about it they can be got as spare parts />http://www.jdmregiment.com/index.php/browse-by-brand/d2/adjuster-knob-3mm-hex-coilovers.html

so if ive got this right including discs/b10`s/earls lines the total including vat for this kits comes to £555? compared to the 4p107 kit: some red stuff pads/lines it comes to £629 a saving of £74 in total....IF the 4p107 fits 14" wheels....interesting

get some pics up, let the pictures do the talking ive damaged a set of coilovers before so lets see how these compare....we all know about the set that was sold damaged to one of the irish lads... eagerly awaits pictures....

i do, how much?

get some decent quality rods and pistons (ross and pauter is what i would choose)...go with arp head studs....p+p the head....uprated head gasket.....race inlet (mabe?).....standalone...get rid of the dizzy....cams...and a dirty big turbo....3" exhaust etc etc plenty of info about check the high power builds out (socks, spuddy etc etc)

cant really add to whats been said but, i wouldnt offer him jack....ive not known you for long but i do know your an extremely generous person especially when it comes to business and being true gent with matters like this that being said id let this one go iddy, youve offered him a cracking deal which he didnt take.....just seems to me hes got another damaged set or w/e and wants to pull a fast one....3 months is a long time to want your money back for a second hand item also can we see pics of the damage?

Love this little S, nice to see it in such good shape....tyres for 14" are a bitch to buy theres no variety