gorganl2000

these standard boxes can take much more power as said above , your synchro is probably on its way out

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Rear+brake+discs+and+pads+replacement that may help with the rear set up

those numbers at the top of the block correspond to the different size pistons for the respective cylinder the ones at the bottom of the block help with the identifying the correct bearings for the crank on the 4efte ( the crank will have numbers stamped on it as well to assist with this) however, its best to have everything properly measured so you get the correct parts

at higher boost levels sometimes 0.5mm has been used to avoid spark blowout you can try moving from 1.1mm to 0.5mm closing in 0.1mm increments until there is no spark blow out

if it works as its suppose to i think it can be very useful for datalogs even with the 1.3 sec delay you can even use it to help adjust tune by comparing before and after datalogs to see what effect changing the parameters had---just you have to be cautious, but then again tuning is generally a cautious activity i'd suggest still using some detcans to monitor knock real time and maybe reference ignition timing from the delay feed to identify reference points plus if you run a piggyback, to see ignition, temps, etc can be very useful

toyota coolant---or suitable alternative,,,,,,,,just avoid the cheap ones i used prestone (red), you can get it premixed or mix it yourself

i can't tell you which is best fpr but i can tell that a GENUINE sard fpr works great-----------and i stress genuine we've used rhdjapan--fast shipping and very reliable

bump

what i can tell you is that from my experience the stock ecu needs to have the o2 sensor connected or else the car will run very poorly (felt sluggish/hesitant and just not a smooth drive)---happened to me when the o2 wire connector was off accidentally and seeing that the JAM ecu (and other Plug and play ecus) are basically modified stock ecus, then i suspect the same "crap" operation will happen if the o2 sensor is not connected. the stock ecu uses it for some of its functions as outlined above i'm not sure, but try a diagnostic with it disconnected and see if a code shows up

pm sent

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/e37t-JDM-TOYOTA-EP91-STARLET-OEM-COMBINATION-SWITCH-WIPER-CONTROL-LIGHT-SWITCH-/321336858723 looking for the combination switch/stalk for the 1998 ep91 glanza V....switches/stalks are like in the old ebay link and pics above thanks

for the sake of it maybe try a stock fpr and seen if that helps or you may need to turn your fuel pressure down to stock level

genuine toyota head bolts are a real wonder and hard to call, some guys run 20/22psi on them with now problems with td04L/td05 sized turbos know of 1 car that ran 28psi on a gt28 know of another running 30psi on a proper td05 yet some guys report to get head lift at those same boost levels as shorty said, for safety maybe arp are the better bet, especially if you plan to trash it everyday at high boost

get it tuned for sure as the others have said as for max boost, the usual on a td04L is around 1.4bar....but sometimes guys hit 1.6 bar for a short time (this tends to shorten the turbo's life) it will most likely taper off in the high revs anyways to around 1.1 - 1.2 bar if you use a stock tdo4L