AdamB

Heat is classed as energy, the more heat=more energy. As the particles of gas get hotter they get more excited, more energy so they move faster. You'll probably get a drop in spool time, but doubt it will be anything noticeable. As long as its a good material, not chinese shit then it shouldn't crack. It will just cool a lot slower than if there was no heat wrap.

x2, think its £549 all in.

Car is almost unrecogniseable! Had to look a couple of times to check it was a teg lol. Glad shes ok though man, lucky for her it was only a bit of a bash, could be worse atleast the cabin remained solid.

Doesn't really work out cheaper tbh, if your getting a well spec'd car then it may do. When I was looking into it, just thinking is it really worth spending nearly £3k for a N/A? When for a little more you can get a starlet already in the country with a forged engine etc.

If your going to be using the car in this cold climate might even be worth dropping to a 0w40.

There discontinued as far as I know, only way your gonna get one is second hand, don't come up very often at all!

Worth talking to the guys that already have 4 paws mate, See if its really worth spending £3k to get one. It may be different from the norm, but parts are gonna be hard to source in terms of drivetrain.

If your looking for a quick cheap build then you can probably get it all in for £2k. For a build which will withstand any sort of punishment you'll probably be looking closer to £3k.

No, you need one modified by AP engineering to have starlet fitment. They are pretty rare and don't come up very often and are very expensive. If your looking for an ecu and have a budget of £1000, you would be far better off buying something like a Link, DTA, Haltech etc, the list is endless.

Depends if your building it yourself or if your going to get it outsourced really?

How longs the car been sitting? Wouldn't have thought it would have gone mouldy too quickly. My car has been left for 9 months now, and I have no mould inside, although I don't use a cover.

Remember that when using a locking based lubricant it will adjust the torque setting you need to torque bolts/studs to. Hence why ARP send out their own lubricant with their bolts/studs and specify torque settings for their own brand and loctite.

It is fine to run without water lines. The oils primary job is to lubricate, its second function is to cool. The water feed is there to prolong the life if the turbo. I do agree though, if its got the water feed/lines you might as well use them. But since a td series turbo can be picked up for peanuts I wouldn't be so worried. But I know for a fact I'll be using oil and water lines on my £1200 turbo, everyone has their own opinion though.

The Race-Tech gauges are pretty damn good. If your not looking to spend silly money on JDM stuff then race-tech gauges do a good job.

10w40, or if using around winter time I would go for a 5w40. Shell Helix, Fuchs, Mobil are all good oils

I think the biggest problem is if you drive it as a daily. You soon get bored quickly and want more and more. If you tuck it away for the winter, and roll around in a banger, when you go back to the beast in the summer you'll fall back in love again.

x2, most common problem is swapping the hoses the wrong way.

Exhaust?

How much for block and crank mate? If someone else is willing to take the rest that is as I know you don't want to split. Pm me a price if you prefer

Standard ecu's will require the use of a narrowband sensor, and I'm very sure the aftermarket plug and plays also require this. Thats true you will need to have the boss welded in further away from the turbo, a lot of people just use the wideband purely as a gauge and let the stock narrowband sensor do its job in the stock position.

Whats the highest CR you've seen on a 5E Sacha mate? I know Spuddy's is at 8.5:1. Going to email you now as well

The MTX uses a Bosch LSU 4 wideband sensor, which needs calibrating. According to innovates website the LC-1 has auto calibration for changes in sensor wear, temp etc. Although is probably still best to calibrate it every so often. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php The LC-1 you get with all the gauge kits apart from the MTX kit. Don't quote me but I'm not sure if the AEM can be linked to aftermarket ecu's, maybe AEM's own but others i'm not sure. Where as the innovate gear can deffinately be used with aftermarket ecu's.

As above, when you lower the car further to the ground, the camber gets pushed out, end up with negative camber. Its best to fit one so that the axle will be aligned properly on both sides, then you can adjust your geometry from an equal and static point.

TD are doing a good deal on Emanage blue units fitted and mapped mate Will be ideal for your setup, and are about the same price as you would pay for a plug and play ecu.

The innovate LC-1 sensor doesn't require calibrating. AEM is a good choice and little cheaper than the innovate, although I'm sure you can't log with it. The distance varies between brands, usually around 35/36 inches away from the turbo, which puts it right under the gearbox.