Flaminsam

Today is the day! See you guys and girls soon.

im also interested in this idea. Saves getting the engine too hot under load and prevents det.

Really? The pic is of a cast ct9 mani?

This is actually a ladys yaris called janet. She is my friends mum. It goes quite well but it suffers from overheating. The r5 intercooler is too small really. And its on ct9, so on its limit with 1 bar. :-S

Cheeky fucks. Glad mine is in the middle of no where, locked up and basicaly well out of sight. Charls is down a uber quiet area and even the slightest noise and the curtain twitchers are on the ball. Glad they did no damage tho. Pays to have a shotgun to erm. .. . . .. . . . . .. . Go clay pigeon shooting lol ;-)

The engine management light will flash repeatedly to say its in diagnostic mode. The timing should be set with the paper clip in the two terminals. Once the timing is set and the distributor is tightened, stop engine and remove paperclip. Simples :-)

Yes the tension is set up by the spring. Also when setting your igniton timing dont forget to bridge e1 and te1 in your diagnostic socket. This will "lock" the timing and allow you to set the timing exactly.

Be aware that ive only found bottom end builds so no cylinder head attached. Im guessing if you took them a head they would fit it for you to create a long block.

Welcome aboard! I have quite a few spares for starlets now in my lock up and I only live in hull. You will be fine on here. Plenty of advice and help when needed. Sam.

http://www.futuremotorsports.com/STAGE-2-4EFTE-BUILT-SHORT-BLOCK-400whp.html Just bolt a head on with a thicker headgasket and jobs a good un.

Welcome along! Slap a turbo on your paseo! :-)

I have a 5efe long block for sale. No inlet mani or exhaust mani though. I believe it still has the thermostat housing on it?

Damn! Thats snapped in a unusual place too. Has the crank been reground? Ive seen a couple of snapped cranks at work and they have sheared usually on or next to one of the mains. :-S

myself and charl are at the next services up but if we are not too tired we may pop and see you lot the night before the day of the event

Good choice in bumper there adam Looking schweeeet!

i can almost bet the ecu has fried. my friend had one years ago and he had to get a new ecu from fiat in italy. cost him somewhere in the region of 600 quid too. try a diagnostic on the ecu. if it doesnt respond theres your problem.

So basically the smaller valve would create a venturi effect a little like a carburettor causing greater velocity and higher pressure? So how are the fte engines set up then? i understand that 300+ bhp can be achieved quite easily with stock cams but do they have a lift/valve diameter of roughly the 1/4 that we have mentioned already? Would be interesting to see what would happen with slightly longer duration, creating slightly more valve overlap and increased scavenging with the optimum ammount of lift on the valves. When i first came into modifying engines the thing to do was ''s

This is all making good reading really. Il be wrapping my new exhaust manifold when i come to fit the engine back in my car. Also adam have you heard of the 1/4 opening of the diameter of the valve tale? Ive heard of it before when i did some research into cam lift and duration. The story i guess goes like this. If you have a valve of say 100mm diameter and open the valve with 25mm of lift you will not increase the flow through the valve opening. Here is a graphic i found. does that make any sence?

By using a massive drill?

bear we have had your hubs in pieces on more than one occasion lol. it shouldnt be too hard for a man of your calabre!

To be honest, i thought all engines had blow by to some extent. Even more with turbocharged or forced induction. Hence having things like catch cans and uprated engine breathing systems. I wouldnt worry too much. At least the beast lives once more.

did you off set the rings taggy?

Yea I see where your coming from. The heat has to be dispersed somewhere as a by product of the combustion process so a bigger or more efficient cooling system would need fitting. Just out of interest how much heat is passed out of the exhaust? I guess after the piston has reached tdc (and the air/fuel mix has been ignited), by the time the piston is at bdc the heat will have a small ammount of time to transfer to the cylinder walls to the water jacket. But surely some heat must leave with the burnt air fuel mix out of the exhaust port? Hence why scavenging should be promoted as much as poss

So if standard pistons are coated they should last longer and cope with heat better? Also if you were to have for instance the bores ceramic coated (like some high power bmw's have as standard) the water jacket around the cylinder would not have as much to absorb heat wise I mean? Would this put excessive heat into the first compression ring and cause it to fail? This is all just theoretical at the moment, but surely it will make a difference to longetivity of a performance engine? Just my theory is heat kills engines, so if the engine doesnt absorb as much heat it should be more efficien

Yea ive also done a bit of research into zircotec and found them a little pricey. The reason I ask is that a few people have problems with keeping their cylinder temps down. Surely of the crowns of the pistons and the valves were coated they should be protected from the likes of detonation and excessive heat? if the pistons reflect the heat away and out of the exhaust for instance surely that should be a good thing? Increased scavenging effect and lower afr's? Should give more power if im not mistaken?