Flaminsam

Oh dear. We have had a nice covering of snow overnight. About 4-6inches in some places.

That explains it just out of interest, what are the diameter of the valves on a 4efte?

Vitara ftw! I wonder if any of the 4paw lads are having any problems

Possibly need shims I suspect. Just wondering why no one else is using these cams?

We are expecting snow this evening. Already had a bit here, hoping for more so I can go play in the vitara!

Love v band set ups. No gaskets required. In guessing the tial v band turbine housings are availiable from tial then? Or are there any uk stockists?

Sr20det engines are usually spot on apart from the bottom ends failing if the oil isn't changed at regular intervals. Again I would be looking into coil packs. Unlikely to be injectors as the s15 use the side feed injector and have a fine gauze all the way around them. The crank angle sensors are also common but doubtful. Has he done the blink check on it yet? See if the ecu has any faults? Also this may sound daft but check the inlet piping. With these engines using a maf any unmetered air entering the engine can cause the fuelling to be out. Even a split vac line to a solenoid etc can cause

That truck is awesome!

Not sure if any one is aware of the range rover v8? On the n/a engine the inlet or plenum uses velocity stacks. On the supercharged v8 the velocity stacks are removed. The reason is Because of the forced induction.

Bit off topic here but surely if your pressurising the inlet the flow would pretty much stay the same? Surely only a 4e can move a certain ammount of air fuel mixture? The way I understood it if your running say 1bar of boost the engine in effect becomes a 2.6l? I thought to improve flow on a turbocharged enngine you had to make the exhaust flow better as the inlet is already taking in as much as the engine can take? Any one want to give some devine inspiration as I think velocity stacks on anything other than a n/a are pretty pointless?

James not to put a dampener on the mood but in the third pic next to the runner for number 4 there's a hole cut out? This is a water or coolant gallery on fte heads if im not mistaken? Only the efe heads have this blanked off? On the fte standard manifolds this piece isn't there? Anyone willing to confirm?

There is a pipe from the bottom of your throttle body that runs to a metal pipe mounted to the rear of the inlet manifold. I do believe that is the pipe to your idle control. Also you have three other ports on the rear of the manifold. One is for the brake servo, one for your map sensor and one that goes to your carbon canister. Try blocking off all these except the map sensor and see if the idle drops. You will have a vac leak to the inlet somewhere.

Its for your carbon canister. Your not allowed to vent gas from your fuel tank to atmosphere, so the carbon canister catches any hydrocarbons from your tank.

I just made some up for my seats and charls recaros this weekend. Modified the Evo 4 rails that came with the seats. Just welded starlet feet on the rails.

These are re-profiled cams I believe. I think you have to send your cams to them to be re-ground with a different profile. Also it says the customer must source or manufacture their own shims to fit the tappets.

Cryogenicly frozen I've heard of, do it a lot to gearsets. It case hardens the metal.

There's one in the scrappy near me. Ep80. What side do you want and I'll have a look and see if they are in good condition. I'm going there tomorrow.

Ah that's a shame. Cheers for trying any way

Any news on the purple yet?

Yea possible miss fire? With the stock ignition system you are about on its limit when it comes to high boost. Most people change to coil on plug design which is far more reliable. Less moving parts etc. It is possible that the spark is not strong enough for the high pressure environment it has been placed in.

I got my hoodie from charl printed by the one and only josh. Many thanks to josh for printing it (top quality) and charl for buying me It!

Probably over tightened the toffee wheel studs, stretched the studs making them become weak. Either that or he was driving around with them loose?

Try pumping the pedal with the nipples shut. Then hold pressure on the pedal and crack the bleed nipple. Then close the nipple and repeat the process.

Dead easy to do. Shouldn't take long to do either. The clutch slave does look like its in the way but you can get round it easily enough with a 3/8" socket set. Also if you don't have access to a gas torch (blue tipped spanner) take your car for a drive then with the exhaust still hot crack off the lambda.

I can vouch for this its immaculate. seen it in the flesh and it looks like new. Glwts!