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So....

It's going forged.

thats is the stuff, now the heart ache really begins.

and your previously mentioned 'high speed runs' become something you can do in only a number of seconds :)

Enjoy

Phil

Edited by Philm
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Long story short, the headgasket was starting to go (had gone between cyl 1 and 2, and various small coolant - cylinder leaks), but upon removing the head, we noticed several places on the cylinder walls where wster had been sat for a while (presumably when stood before I got it), and as a result pitted and eaten in considerably.

So! Rather than get another engine and potentially have problems on that one crop up later down the line, leaving me with two useless engines, I've taken the decision to fully rebuild my current one. Forged pistons, forged rods, new everything basically. This way I'll have a rock solid engine and I know exactly what state it's in, rather than have an engine you never can be sure of in terms of condition throughout. An expensive move, yes, but it'll be worth it, even if I won't have a turbo setup etc to realise the full potential of a forged engine for some time yet.

As for who is building it, it's a mate of mine who has his own garage business and has built several engines before. In fact, he has a fully custom caged 82 that he's currently building the lump for at the moment. He's planning to track it and stuff, but it's been slow work. Also has a minted original Mini with a race-tuned Mini lump in. And he races dirtbikes haha.

Also found that my Ogura ORC309 must be imbalanced as its battered to fuck, all on one half of the plates :( Friction material is quite worn down as well, so I may have to ditch it. Pressure plate is slightly out of round too, probably from when the previous owner of the clutch had to mount a brick wall to avoid an accident and cracked his gearbox! It was a bit of a chance, but it was cheap, and I needed a clutch. Got plenty of use out of it too. In the meantime, I'll get a Spec 6-puk clutch, definately want to get another ORC309 in the future though, loved.it. And I can't let my £100 Ogura release bearing sit around doing nothing!

Other than that, not a lot to report. Just badly missing driving hah! Hell not being able to jump into a car if/when I want

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just gotten my Volk 5/4s back from the refurbishers as I wasn't happy with their effort first time round, and I'm pleased to say they're ten times better than they were. Just need to get my spigot rings that I ordered from eBay trimmed down to size then I can get them properly balanced once I have the GT back

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  • 1 month later...

Quick little update.

Engine was basically done and in the car a week ago, but Chris (my mate doing the work for me), found that coolant was pissing out of the front of the engine. After a lot of investigatory work, and taking the block to three different machinists, we've now come to the conclusion that all machine work is fine and correct.

The culprit seems to be the new Athena headgaskets that we've been using. It seems that the beading around the bores and oil and water ways are just not sealing at all. Chris tried his several year old Athena gasket, that sealed absolutely fine, as did a stock gasket. So, the two new Athenas are off back to the manufacturer for them to assess what's gone wrong, and either they'll send some new ones back, or we use a h/g from a different manufacturer. I think it's something to do with the metal used for the beading being too hard to provide a seal?

Oh well, the saga continues. I just want my car back, but unfortunately it's out of Chris' hands as well.

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Quick little update.

Engine was basically done and in the car a week ago, but Chris (my mate doing the work for me), found that coolant was pissing out of the front of the engine. After a lot of investigatory work, and taking the block to three different machinists, we've now come to the conclusion that all machine work is fine and correct.

The culprit seems to be the new Athena headgaskets that we've been using. It seems that the beading around the bores and oil and water ways are just not sealing at all. Chris tried his several year old Athena gasket, that sealed absolutely fine, as did a stock gasket. So, the two new Athenas are off back to the manufacturer for them to assess what's gone wrong, and either they'll send some new ones back, or we use a h/g from a different manufacturer. I think it's something to do with the metal used for the beading being too hard to provide a seal?

Oh well, the saga continues. I just want my car back, but unfortunately it's out of Chris' hands as well.

Top news Nick, you decided what turbo kit your going to run?

John

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Still sticking with the CT9 for now, at 0.8 bar.

After getting a replacement h/g back from Athena, we're still having issues with it not sealing, mainly in the centre of the block, towards the front of the engine (need to confirm this). He had slight improvements by lapping the faces down by hand to get it smoother, but at the end of the day we still have sealing issues, yet his old Athena gasket from his own GT seals absolutely fine. Only reason we're not using that is because there's a blow between two cylinders.

Because I just want the car back on the road now, we've decided to chuck a standard Toyota gasket on for now and then tackle the MLS gasket issue at a later date, probably when I start to look at a hybrid or upping the boost to 1 bar. When that time comes, we'll either have another crack at an Athena gasket, or look at other MLS gasket options (not sure who else does them). Would have been nice to have the engine 1bar+ ready, but I'm guessing that's Starlets for you.

Reading about, it seems a few people have had issues with Athena gaskets lately. Will be interesting to see if it deffo was the gaskets at fault.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, this is long overdue an update.

We sent back the gaskets to Athena, and they said that there was a small problem with them, but not to the extent that it would be pissing coolant out. Anyway, they sent us back another one, and while that initially did leak a little bit, my mechanic lapped the surfaces out by hand and it started to get better and better. In the end we decided to leave it on and see if running the engine would help seal it, which it seems to have done.

Coming up to 500 miles into my running in with absolutely no coolant or oil loss, another 500 to go! In other news, as I've said previously I got a Spec 6-puk to replace the knackered ORC309, but I can't say I'm getting on with it at all. Way too light for me still, even after nearly a month of driving with it and getting used to it. Think I may have to get another Ogura at some point, I miss my old one heaps. Anyone else had similar experiences with their Spec 6-puk? Maybe my brain and leg has just been ruined by having to use an ORC and it can't deal with the Spec :p

Edited by Bluebear
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  • 1 month later...

Nearly 1700 miles later and I'm happy to report she's still running strong after the rebuild!

Anyway, had a bit of a headscratcher today. Got a single din headunit off a mate so I can fuck off my CD's rattling around in the glovebox and switch to USB storage for playback, buuuut.... It wouldn't fit at all.

So, am I right in thinking that if I have two seperate 'plates' either side of both my spacer pocket and exisiting headunit, that it's for a double headunit? If so, how do I set it up for 2x single dins but still keep the blanking tray/recess?

Thing is, the current headunit is a single DIN, an old Toyota one, and that fits absolutely fine. This Phillips headunit was just not lining up at all with any of the bolt holes on the side plates, as well as the studs on the sidepkates not fitting into anything obvious.

Edited by Bluebear
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  • 3 weeks later...

Quick update.

Got the head unit fitted shortly after my last post, moral of the story is to make sure you have the bloody thing right way up before you start wondering why no holes in the brackets seem to line up. Had to file down some locating nubs though.

Other than that, not much. Just been modfiying the spigot rings I bought so that they will sit flush inside my Volks, hopefully I can get them on the car on Friday and hopefully it cures the wheel vibration I was getting (the Volks are balanced). I just hope I didn't order the wrong internal diameter for the rings, as I know it's either 54mm or 55mm.

Either way, quick snap of one of my delicious gold Volk 5/4s:
abpFWKN.jpg

I may have a genuine Tom's spoiler in my hands soon, but not sure if I can afford it as it's likely I'll be moving into a flat! We'll see, if I do get it, then it won't be for a while yet until it goes on the car.

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A lot of people recommend spigot rings to hold the wheel centre. Apparently studs have a bit of flex in them which can fuck up shit, hence spigot rings to keep the wheel snug to the part of the hub that protrudes. My reason for doing this is on the drive down to JAE and back, and before that, I had massive wheel vibration, even after balancing twice at two different places. So trying spigot rings to see if that solves it. As soon as I put my slips on after, stable as a rock.

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Oh no bud, I get what they are for, the OZ Titans that my motor is currently sitting on has them fitted so the wheels fit properly, but to my knowledge, the Rays slipped straight onto my hubs with no spigot rings needed. i wonder are the hubs a different size between the UK Spec 91 and the GTs.



Interesting nonetheless.



Phil.


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I couldn't see them being bigger? They'd have to be quite a lot bigger, iirc the bore on the Volks (the bit that'd be meeting the hub face) was over 70mm, no way will the centric ring on UK starlet hubs be that big!

Unless there's a diff between our sets of 5/4s? Like you say, interesting.

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Well, yesterday I fitted two of the Volks, only to realise that the tyres had been put on wrong by the wheel refurbers ( left hand tyres had been put on both 4-spoke wheels, right hand tyres had been put on the 5-spoke wheels), but the good news is that the spigot rings fitted fine, now I just have to try them out properly. Dad got the tyres swapped around today while I've been away, so I'll get the wheels fitted onto the car tomorrow and see if the rings have eliminated the horrendous vibration I got at speed. If it's all ok, then I'll be at the JDM North meet with them on :D

I've been down in Gloucestershire today for a rolling road day at Powerstation in Tewkesbury, with members of OverclockersUK, where I'm pleased to say that it made a healthy 172hp at the engine. Seems a bit high, but there were guys there with basically brand new cars which made the stock power levels so it could well be accurate. Next weekend I'm at TD with the Corolla club to give it a go there, it'll be interesting to compare the two graphs. The power at the wheels figure is quite low on this, but I talked to the operator and he said it was skewed so they could get a more accurate figure for the output at the engine (each wheel has two rollers on it rather than the standard 1). It goes well enough on the road anyway, so I'm not bothered!

604078_10152025630648458_1507893328_n.jp

Been a long day and I've been up since 5am! Time to shoot some fools on Battlefield 4 and then retire to bed :D

Edited by Bluebear
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  • 2 weeks later...

Another week, another update!

Was down at TD at the weekend, joining CorollaClub.net at their RR day, where the car got 162bhp. Nick was quite impressed, and he said that he suspected that it may be running a different wheel inside the turbo (can't remember if he said intake or exhaust). I know those particular rollers' reputation as heartbreakers, so the fact that I'm still 160bhp+, on a warm day, has made me chuffed. Curves are pretty much the same as the Powerstation printout the weekend before, and the fuelling and boost all seems fine, no worries there so I'm pleased!

Only hiccup I've had recently is the car seems to be using a fair bit of oil (I'd imagine the amount to be the same as from Full down to bottom of dipstick, in 2000 miles). There's not really any smoke coming from the exhaust (and if there is, it's white), and there's no coolant being used, or visible leaks. However, the CT9 that is on it at the moment is one that came with the secondhand Zisco kit. I ahd checked it for shaft play and what not before it got fitted, and there was nothing to give concern. I'll keep an eye on the engine in general, and bear in mind that it is being used daily. I believe forged engines use a bit of oil anyway. May consider getting my old CT9 down to Liam D to get it overhauled or rebuilt as a hybrid.

Other than that, not a lot to report! Spigot rings has cured the vibration through the wheel when the Volks are on completely! One wheel still needs rebalancing so there is a slight vibration at 70ish, but it is very minor. As well as that, I have a parcel from Mister Starbuck waiting for me at the sorting office; nothing exciting, just a reverse scoop. It'll look slightly off since it's 205 Black compared to the Ford black that my car is sprayed in, but I don't think it'll bother me much.

Edited by Bluebear
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