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It's all very much a case of two steps forward, one back. Filled up the clutch fluid yesterday, bled through ok, to find that the pedal has fuck all resistance in it for half the travel and then its like hitting a brick wall. Looking at the slave cylinder, it seems that something is wrong with the fork inside the box, because its much further out than it should be. Gearbox off job then, gutted.

Is this an understandable occurance if I fitted an ORC309? Was there something I should have done to adjust for the clutch kit?

Edited by Bluebear
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Unlucky dude :(

I had to remove and refit my gearbox three times for a clutch change but I ended up putting the old clutch back in as the new one was faulty, massive piss take!

Whatever it is make sure you work out the problem 100%, you don't wanna do it again :lol:

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  • 4 weeks later...

Found what the problem was, the standard release bearing didn't reach the clutch face :p

£117 smackers later, and I have a brand new Ogura release bearing and sleeve from the land of the rising sun, which will extend the reach and make contact with the clutch. Hopefully get the gearbox back on this weekend, and then once that's done, I can get cracking with doing everything else, which is not a lot to be honest (Until MOT time anyway....)

Does anyone know where to get spare exhuast gaskets for the Japspeed full system? Or would I be able to cut my own out of a sheet or something?

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I have the Ogura ORC309D. Apparently there seems to be a version of the 309 that you can use a standard Toyota release bearing with, obviously not this one :p It may even be the Blitz Active clutch that you can use it with (essentially a rebranded ORC309)

Edited by Bluebear
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Ah I see, just thought you may have had a blueprint clutch for a second because i had similar problems with my blueprint! How far is the car off being on road now?

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Well, gearbox will hopefully be on over the weekend, and from there it's literally exhaust, bumper support bar on and bumper on, sort out the mess I've made of the interior, fit brakes and fill up with brake fluid, get hold of a rear foglight then get it MOTed tbh. And then deal with anything (if any, fingers crossed) that the MOT throws up!

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I ran an orc309 for 2 years and then sold it to the short man ... He has had loads of troubles with the release bearing issue ...

Fkin wicked clutch mind and the noises it makes are pretty unique lol

Edited by MARC MOSS
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  • 1 month later...

I have the Ogura ORC309D. Apparently there seems to be a version of the 309 that you can use a standard Toyota release bearing with, obviously not this one :p It may even be the Blitz Active clutch that you can use it with (essentially a rebranded ORC309)

You can indeed run a Blitz Active Clutch with the standard release bearing. But even then you might want to buy the correct one, because mine's giving a whining noise and I had to remove the floor mats to get the clutch released. I have a cm of nothing when I press the clutch.

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Yeah, mine starts giving feedback as soon as I touch the pedal now that I have the proper Ogura release bearing. When I was trying it with the standard one, literally half of the pedal movement was nothing, then it was just trying to push a house over with your foot as you reach the end of the release forks travel, and the bearing was still in midair.

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  • 3 weeks later...

She passed her MOT 2nd time round! Failed first time because we kind of left the bolts that hold the suspension strut to the hub a bit loose... Whoops.

Having boost creep issues at the moment, so I'm going to block off the BOV pipe on the intercooler piping properly so it isn't leaking there. If that doesn't work, Chris (mate who also has a GT and has practically been a godsend helping me out getting the GT MOT ready), says he may have an adjustable actuator lying around. Is fitting that and setting to 0.8 the right way to go about it, or do I need to get an FCD and RFPRR? Or does the turbo need to be taken off and wastegate ported etc?

EDIT: From looking at a couple of guides, it seems it's very much a case of doing what works for each car. In that case, I'll sort the slight boost leak first, and then fit a new actuator and see if that helps. Pretty sure the WG on the CT9 wasn't cracked when I took it off before though, so that should be alright to port. At that stage, it should be controlled so I won't need to stop fuel cut or anything because well, it shouldn't happen at 0.8 bar :p

Edited by Bluebear
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  • 2 weeks later...

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