morgey

As above. Not the most potent of engines but ££ per hp they are the cheapest out of the lot. You could even buy the entire car for under £1k easily

I had some 1mm spigot rings here i made but i think the discs are also smaller on the early models. I can see if i can find them if you want. You could always upgrade caliper carriers and use bigger discs then too

Proably not much, think the miesters go a bit lower and think people have said they're slightly softer.

Injection moulders, cnc machinist, cad design. No connection with cars whatso ever

Very similar last time i looked

Much the same as you. I run BC's and have them set from softest 6-8 clicks and 4 rear, just last night i was hooning down some bumpy ass backroads at 80 odd. Yes they are still bumpy but not overly solid and harsh. You could always opt for a softer spring. Bc's are 6k front 4k rear i think. The other thing to bare in mind is tyre size i run 195/50 15's lower profile will make it harsher.

Tbf if they were fucked theres not much you can do. I doubt theres many people able that can rebuild jdm coilovers due to not being able to get the parts. I've a set of ae111 superstrut trd coilovers of which 1 is bent so that will prob get scrapped and i think at least one of the rears is leaking so ill prob have the springs off them and scrap them :/

I've got a full owners pack for a corolla gti with purchase reciepts and toyotas own insurance. Pretty cool but worthless all the same lol

Its great fun. Needs some tweaking regarding torque movement under load but it still puts a smile on my face after what i think will be 4 years of 20v power this christmas. I will get rid of this one day but im not sure when. Id like a crappy rwd drift wagon but i dont know if i could warrent it lol

Ill help where i can. With any luck i made a list of what colours went where.

You might have some in the doors but not enough on the passengers door to do the powerfold. I repinned the plug on the passengers door with a bigger plug with more sockets so i could add the extra wires that i needed. They then needed running across the car to the switch in the dash. The drivers door i think had enough. Then you need to take a power from the fuse box under the knee panel and earth it in the footwell

For me if i needed it emerald or megasquirt purely for the fact, emerald are build by a guy in my town so problem solving is easy its less than a 1 mile trip. Theres a guy in norwich who builds megasquirts to your spec so also very local and repairs or addons are very easily done. But thats just me.

6 bolt lsds are about. That or redrill an 8 bolt diff to suit the na 6 bolt

Find a mate who works in a garage with trade plates bung the garage owner £50 notes and have your mate drive it back ;)

I know how people on them sites work my dad has used them once or twice and generally they find work that way before doing it. So yours is at point B he now needs to find something to take from point A (His home) to point B then hes got your delivery point B to C so from there he needs to find work from point C back to point A. Chances are thats what hes doing but just in case keep a track of when you paid and make sure you put the claim in even if he does start talking but seems like hes panning it out.

Deffo need under bucket shims otherwise you'll pop the shim out of the oem ones with harsh cams as i imagine you plan on running? Hard to say on cruise springs tbh have to speak to people that use them but most engines that rev over 8.5k start using double springs. You really will be going into unknown territory with a 4e running it that high. Be a lot to look into regarding engine saftey and reliability. Worth speaking to a couple of engine builders getting some different opinions on how to do things. Finding the weak points of the engine before you do it and correcting them. Oil depen

9k that'll be mad. Prob need custom and or double valve springs for that? Bearings, toyota should be fine it will be oil pressure you'll want to keep up to make sure they dont run dry. That will be your main issue i would have thought

Reading the link jay posted it basically states that you have to move the pivot point away from the hub,. Spacing the wishbone wont work as the point of movement will remain the same, there's 2 types of ball joints ones mounted in the hub pointing down they need spacing away from the hub from behind the joint (packer style) or the type mounted in the wishbone pointing up and they need spacing away above the joint (extended balljoint arm)

They are lovely looking wheels!

Theres a 2nd page on there. That has the twinpots on it

No thats probably it. Only other ones are in the foot wells. Tps and map sensors plugged in? Temp sensors. Ecu have any codes?

I dont im afraid. I just remember doing the headgasket on my na and moving them somewhere else to tidy the bay up a bit and it wouldnt fire up. Moved them back onto the inlet manifold and it worked 1st time. I remember others having the same issue so thought id let you know to check. Theres like 4 earths that all go onto like a little eye loop fitting

Earths on the back on the inlet manifold can cause it

Chances are corolla t-sports are the same. They use a very similar caliper carrier design just single pots instead. Sam nadeem on facebook will be able to get you one in no time. He breaks them

Right well i can make sence of that although that seems to be for dual wishbone setup but the principal will still stand. Also reading on we would need to get an extended ball joint as to move the pivot point of the ball joint down rather than just spacing it out. So depending on the angle of our wishbones then we should notice the benefit of a set of rca's as it will probably bring the Rc back closer to where it was from factory.