morgey

14 sr's If you look through the miss spellings. Theres 30 supras and a gtr got scrapped too.

Yeah its 2 old to be an Sr (98 99 only) Not bad tho. Just needs a little tiding up or raiding for parts lol

Good to see you're still making progress with this. That floating clutch reservoir is pretty handy, could do with doing that to mine!

Big congrats and thankyou to the UKSO team, keep up the good work guys!

Should be in college or an apprentice, if you can get one do it. Even wiper blades are like 50% cheaper

Cut the old ones off. The inner tripod bearing is held on with a circlip. Id prob pop that off, slide the bearing set off, new boot on and reverse the process. You will obviously need to undo the shock to hub bolts in order to get the inner out of the cup thats in the geaebox.

Is it the filter box or the chamber between filter and throttle you're on about by the way?. Im on about the chamber tbf cant comment on the filter box

Not really because the sr never had one nor was it different from the ones normal starlets had

Yay

Ahh fair enough. Personally id be looking at getting rid though.i mean look how much fun browners ep85 is ;)

Would make more of a difference on an n/a they make them for the 4age 20v and make a fair improvement on midrange torque. The idea is you have more filtered air to use without drawing it through the filter. Whereas on a turbo its more volume to be filled with compressed air therefore making you have more lag.

He means one that go directly to the battery into the main loom. The ones by the icv go to sensors etc not the battery

Yeah lol He wouldn't go back to the VC the 80f 20r split was shocking. Was basically dragging the extra weight around with no real benifit, knocked off 0.5sec off his 1/4. Think he is now looking at a front and rear lsd upgrade now though so should make it much happier for day to day use and less likely to push forward on tight corners.

Loosing the vc will be the best thing you do to it. Ideally an lsd to replace the rear diff would be used but good luck with that lol. Cornering isnt that bad tbh. Well high speed is ok, lower speeds it tends to push forward. And obviously parking is funny

Replace the viscous coupling with a solid bar, weld the rear diff, boost the 4efe thats in it and have some fun.

I got a letter for parking near someones drive before. I was a good 2 foot clear of a tapered drive and you could easily reverse into an open junction opposite if need be, it Was also at the end of a closed road so minimal traffic to look out for. Anyway yeah the cops turned up at my house which seemed completely stupid considering i was at the estate where my car was lol Im my case it was a case of some grumpy old retard so seeing this reminds me of that. But tbf yours is much worse they're clearly over your drive. In comparison my front NS would have been under the furthest mirror from w

The D bushings are worth polybushing i found. Preferred the stock arb poly bushed than the whiteline 24mm one. And yeah theres 2 different arb droplinks but the mount onto the wishbone can be poly bushed even with the ball joint style version. Just need to find someone else who would want the other half of your set lol

Great visual upgrade for n/a's make the front end look much more modern! Glwts.

Theres the main lead that goes to the battery but that drops down to the gearbox iirc doesn't go into the loom as such. Then theres another one on the cambelt side maybe attaches to the engine mount? Obviously the loom has its own. A few from the dash loom to earth points in the kick panels but nothing straight to the battery

Gearbox to battery. And theres a engine block to chassis and again a chassis to battery. Tbh it doesnt really matter where they are as long as they are there. If you can hide them do so.

Yeah pretty sure they are

Measure how much further out you want them and find a suitable spacer to fit

Right I've not really got any real excuse for taking this long to get this done other than im slack, i know i was being irresponsible but... My car is finally correctly registered as a 1.6 4age 20v! I've been fully insured with the 20v for years but im sure it would have been a bit funny if id had my insurance checked against my tax and engine number to chassis number etc it would have flagged up and probably voided my insurance. So just to make this clear for anyone doing a swap. 1.3 to 1.3 wouldn't matter but changing tax bands creates issues. Basically about a year ago

Change offset or as you said ideally hubcentric spacers, how far do you want to push them out?

Few of my mates have changed to poly wishbone mounts and have found the car is much more susceptible to follow tyre tracks and whitelines so if the roads are a bit pish best not bother. But if theyre old a new set might be advisable. That said, i would add to socks list a anti lift kit. They replace the rear mount on the front wishbones (poly) they make the steering more positive i found. But best buy is deffo the Lsd but obviously the most work and most expensive.