5T4R7ET N/A

Check the car fuse first, after replacing that if everything works apart from stereo there is normally at 10A fuse on the back of the stereo

I would say get a temp sensor first as its the cheaper option then if its not that i reckon its the distributor. You have done the fuel pump, earths and temp sensor then, so the only thing left will be distributor. Im pretty sure it will be that, i had it happen randomly at first then it slowly got worse and completely gave up. If its not a daily you could wait for this to happen and you will know 100% when it produces no spark.

You replaced the distributor? or just cap and rotor arm?

This happened to another car of mine and it got worse as time went on, turned out to be distrubitor on it way out. Check the basics like battery clamps, take off and clean them. Bit of sand paper to get good contact

^^ thanks for that dude

get some steels ones that are black or something, the aluminiums ones are too soft and you probably end up with a similar issue to what you have now

thats a good watch, pretty even at most parts of the track.

^^ as above dude, whats the technique. Flat it down with a fine sandpaper and polish using a fine compound? We want detail. Haha

That a td05 twin scroll?

^^ thats definitely it. I knew there was a thread somewhere. Nice find Now you have the history of it all.

Get a nice sticky set of tyres and limit the wheel spin, boost by gear and you should smoke most cars out there

Check out some of other YouTube videos, they date back to 2009!

Ex display auto gauge http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTO-GAUGE-Rev-Counter-Tachometer-Tacho-Gauge-Shift-Light-BRAND-NEW-EX-DISPL-/141806741443?nav=SEARCH Look for good makes second hand Pivot Racetech Stack Still wont be cheap though but you might find one close to your budget

I thought it was this car? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3gqRUWFKVao I remember those intercooler pipes and side strips

Just release the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and push the piston in then tighten it back up once you have it pushed in far enough

What's your budget? I think you will be better off getting a good quality second hand one.

if your 100% sure that its not the fuel cut defender than it could be related to the wax stat in the throttle body. if they jam open the idle stays high like on cold start, and if they jam closed then the car does not idle at all until a little warm try to adjust the idle screw at the top of the throttle body for the time being. make sure its clean inside the throttle body, the holes for vacuum are small if it is the wax stat you might have to get another throttle body as i dont think you can buy the wax stat seperate

When you start it and hold the throttle does the car stay on or still cut out?

double check the new brake lines are not rubbing on anything dude. Do your coilovers have a bracket for the brake line holder to go on? Like oem? Nice updates, are the new wheels a secret?

Nice, good to hear you got it sorted. I think a lot of people have problems after fitting uprated clutches as it exposes any weakness in the hydraulic system.

bent clutch forks are a common problem, they either bend at the pivot point or completely break. looks like you need a another one, so you will need to take the box off unfortunatley

Forte engine flush is good for that. Make sure you read the instructions.

^^ any proof of the subaru incident was him??

^ if the loom was not repairable by you if could of been repairable by someone else. It does not mean its useless to everyone just because you thought its no good. If the item is not as described you ask for refund and return. You kept the item and got a full refund, how is that fair?

Age could also be a factor, these engine are now at least 15 years old. Valve stem seals and piston rings are the most common problem. If it smoke on idle it could just need pcv valve on rocker cover?