Asad

get the NGK iridium plugs you want BKR5EIX (grade 5 for standard) off ebay still the cheapest around the K+N panel filter is much much better the blitz one, its is just a car sponge (ill find the code for the k+n filter that fits the N/A later) use a ADL or genuine toyota filter no point in wasting money on a TRD one especially on a N/A get a magnetic sump plug too as for oil i use 10w40 semi standard brake discs are best, measure before your order theres 2 different sizes iirc its 238? for a N/A.....as for pads there always a debate but im going for redstuff next most people have a negative view on greenstuffs so??

Hi, as above i had a car taken away and got the yellow slip off the V5 signed i was not given any other paper work nor did i get anything else signed my question is..is this right? what do i do next? i need to get a road tax refund too ( i have the tax disc) Any help appreciated Asad

110k on my N/A never used a drop

just get a standard one, if you want to upgrade the cooling on a N/A... replace the stat for a new standard one new coolant double core glanza rad or a civic radiator all the above is more than adequate, my N/A sat for hours on idle/90-110 on the motorway again for hours the needle never moved from slightly halfway

Any decent 10w40 semi will do i asked this question ages ago (have a search thru)....i service every 10k which is roughly every year and ive never had any problems

did you calibrate the TPS? (thread on tgtt) although you`ve checked, seal the throttle body and manifold using a new gasket/some sealer to be 100% earths ok? small fuel pressure regulator hose in?

what is the temp gauge showing? is the alternator belt still intact? it runs the waterpump first port of call would be to change the thermostat cheap and easy to replace

either go for a standard vented disc or a grooved one with say no more than 6 grooves i`d avoid drilled ones.....im putting in redstuff pads when funds allow so go for them?

how do you turn the avatars off?

Starlets don't need a cage, they use two brackets get on to someone breaking one

id just get some solid vented discs, or some grooved ones with roughly 6/8 grooves on any more is just pointless imo id stay away from drilled ones

what are the redstuffs like? im saving for a decent set of pads atm its either them or the yellows

Meisters...hands down would be mint to have some sort of control thing like the teins for them

1) you could run them without filters or make up an air box for them what diameter are the ports? 2) is it the same gen ECU? may have a different map or something?? 3) not sure how the vac is set up but when i was reading up about itbs i got the general impression it was best to use one of the old injector ports to give the brake booster its own vac line instead of sharing with the map/frp etc 4) for now can you not try a SAFC and rrfpr combo to get the fueling right? this was the route i was going to go Im not sure how thought out the process was when the previous seller put the kit together (intake diameter,runner length,intake port shape) ultimatley this is where if any power is to be had then theres the issue of getting the map perfect and moving onto the head modifications to make better use of the extra air

what would you like to know?

I think? ive got some pics on my build thread this is what i followed, i disconnected the little breather pipe too which goes into the intake and just let it vent http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=331989

Yes there is a point i had a DIY one on mine caught a reasonable ammount of oil, kept the inlet manifold clean and the main advantage is the intake mixture of fuel + air isnt polluted by the oil vapour i placed the catch can inbetween the pvc and the vac port on the inlet

Happy birthday!!

yup i know, my point was that the prices stated on the websites indicate that they are bog standard thin core rads and he should be looking to pay atleast £100+ for one

May help but when i was looking for a radiator for my manual N/A i gave a glanza chassis number and there were two prices one was £50 and the other was £150 i ordered the £50 one and got a standard replacement ideally i wanted the one with a thicker core which i can only assume was the £150 one a genuine one will set you back £250~........my point being anything around the 50-70 mark will be a thin core one for the N/A and anthing £110+ should in theory be the bigger core which is what your after (auto obvs) i would measure the thickness of core and double check with the above sellers ideally if you can, find a local motorfactor go down and check it out

what coilovers are they? if its the meisters double check you have fitted them correctly before going for allignment

hey welcome, tbh youd be had pressed to find a decent glanza for 2k bar mabe an auto? but nothing that wont need work doing to it. I would get some insurance quotes and some extra paper together say around 3k will get you a nice example

only the castrol edge range in the fully is any good from what ive read, using a decent fully synt you can actually prolong oil changes

Just clocked this wish i could translate it! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dfit_fsoD8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M21FZsKsjAg...feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2w1LRFjzAH4...feature=related

the EP91s have two brackets.....can only assume the EP82 does too if so send a few pms around to people who are breaking them expect to pay £0-£10 tops